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Re: Clutch Lever
AND has a cheaper list price or did I dream that ?You can buy patern levers for much less than the Aprilia one. problem you may have is getting the little brass adjuster out of the old lever. For some strange reason it does not come with the lever. It is a bugger to remove and if you do not set it right then you can get clutch slip.,,
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The clutch cable is fitted to the lever and the clutch arm on the top of the crank case beside the oil cap. Remove old cable (remove side fairing if you need to for access to cable end) slacken the new cable adjusters as much as possible fit to the clucth arm on the engine and fit to its seat route the cable the same as the old one up to the clutch lever, fit the cable end to the lever, hold the cable sleve tight pull the lever to strech the cable and drop into the lever seat, adjust the cable for 2mm of free play at the lever before the cable is pulled
Open the hood, have a confederate push the clutch pedal in and out. You look for the thing at the end of the engine shaped like a large bell. This connects the engine to the transmission and has all the clutch stuff inside. At some point on its side there will be a rubber boot with a lever coming out from it. That lever is pushed back and forth by a piston which is inside a slave cylinder, and that is operated by the clutch pedal. So if you see no movement of the lever whilst your pal is moving the pedal in and out most likely your problem lies with the hydraulic clutch, either at the master or slave end. This is a good thing as it does not require removing the engine and replacing all the stuff inside the bell housing. You buy a new hydraulic clutch system pre-bled, about 200 bucks and pay someone to put it in. The car is 16 years old however and if the little lever is moving you are at the point where your only real choice is to pay someone to replace all the clutch stuff and resurface the flywheel. That will be much more and may well exceed the value of the car.
OK for you experts the slave piston moves it only one way and a spring returns it.
Adjustment is made at clutch end first and then fine-tuned at the handle bar end. Adjust at clutch end until there is no free play on the lever. Then slack off the nut a quarter turn. Test clutch operation and adjust at the lever end if nescessary. Remember to lock the nuts at the clutch end.
To remove the old cable first shorten the mid-cable adjuster to give as much free play as possible. If you need more free play screw in the adjuster at the clutch lever as much as possible and line up the slots so you can disconnect the cable from the clutch lever. Then remove the shift lever, and possibly the left footrest if needed to remove the front sprocket cover. Remove the cotter pin and disconnect the cable from the clutch release lever. Make a note of the routing of the old cable so you can replace it. Install the new cable with a new cotter pin at the lower end first, and route it the same as the old cable. To adjust the new cable, shorten the mid-cable adjuster as much as possible. At the clutch lever, turn the adjuster in and leave about 1/4" of threads showing between the locknut and the lever body. With the front sprocket cover still off, loosen the locknut on the clutch release lever and back the screw 3 or 4 turns. Turn the clutch adjusting screw in until it becomes hard to turn and then back it off 1/2 of a turn and tighten the locknut. Now lenghten the mid-cable adjuster until there is no free play and tighten the locknuts. Check that the lower end of the cable is fully seated in it's socket. At the clutch lever, turn the adjuster in so you have 1/16" free play, and tighten the locknut. Replace the front sproket cover and the shift lever and footrest.
either your clutch needs to be adjusted or your clutch has something in it preventing it from fully releasing. either way its best to take it to the shop or someone who knows how to properly inspect the primary case. in my case, a plate fell apart and the rivets were in between the clutches.
AND has a cheaper list price or did I dream that ?You can buy patern levers for much less than the stroke one. problem you may have is getting the little brass adjuster out of the old lever. For some strange reason it does not come with the lever. It is a bugger to remove and if you do not set it right then you can get clutch slip.,,
If this is the same as the RS125 cable i changed then the cable goes into the clutch cover engine casing yes? You do not have to take the whole engine apart you need to disconnect the cable from the lever and then you will have to take the clutch cover off. before you do this you will need to lean the bike on its side as you will lose the gearbox oil otherwise. plus the cluch will fall out as it is held in with dowels and not bolted (stupid design) once you have the cover off then you can disconnect the cable. if your gentle when taking the cover off then u will not have to replace the gasket however this rarely happens you will deffianly need to get a new gasket about 4quid. reconnect your new cable and then put the gasket on and be carefull wen putting the casing back on the engine making sure you do not damage the new gasket.
hope this helps.
you have to release the clutch lever. take the bolt off of the clutch lever and take the lever off. this will release the clutch. I got mine loose but the only problem is how to reset it after you put the clutch back in.