Question about 2006 Aprilia Scarabeo 125

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Exhaust systems

Have been pretty unsuccessful in finding an exhaust system or bolt on for the Scarabeo 100 2008. Is there another solution

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Yes, you can fit any muffler from any 80cc - 100cc bike that fits the pipe or can be mod'ed to fit the pipe. You might want to consider the Suppertrapp 3M Dirtbike series. Be advised, if your exaust is too free-flow you may need to re-jet the carb. Also, I assume your goal is a louder sound rather than horsepower gains which would require replacing the carb and using a free-flow airbox (and of course re-jetting).



Posted on Feb 24, 2009

  • noodle-soup Feb 24, 2009

    By the way, tina783 copied that information from the Aprilia AF1 Forum. For performance, you will need a different 20mm carb than the stock CV-type. Any 18mm or 20mm carb that fits is fine (the boot connection fits a carburetor with a 23mm outside diameter at the spiggot. I do not believe the Keihin PE20 or any in the PE series will not fit in a stock S100 as it's rather tall. The carb is directly below the plastic fuel tank that is attached to the frame and the engine/carb is on the pivoting swingarm (so if it "fits" you may sitll have problems once you hit a bump in the road).






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Must the exhaust be specific to the model is there no way to take an exhaust made for a similar scoot and fit it to the scarabeo? What is your goal? The scooter exhausts offered by Leo Vince and Malossi aren't actual performance systems. People use them because they want to customize the scoot or get more of a growl sound while also passing emission inspections. Most people in the USA never have an emissions inspection on their scooters and are thus free to bolt on any exhaust they choose. If you are looking for performance you need an aftermarket free-flow system like those used for off-road bikes and your only limitation is how loud of an exhaust you are willing to accept. There are plenty of aftermarket exhausts for pit bikes and small dirt bikes that should bolt on to the S100-4T. Personally I would start by looking at mods people have done on the Honda XR70 since it's about the same size engine and uses the same 20mm Keihin carburetor. Of course if you bolt-on an aftemarket free-flow dirt-bike exhaust you will need to replace the existing restrictive airbox with a free-flow K&N unit and either add larger jets to the existing carburetor or switch to the high-flow 20mm PE Keihin or the 24mm Keihin. Either way, the muffler is the easy part it's getting the fuel/air mix right and that's all carburetor work. ,,,

Posted on Nov 10, 2008

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My husband and I are trying to get to our thermostat to change in my 2002 rendezvous, but there is a metal pipe in the way that we can't figure out how to remove. just behind the pipe, is a metal plate...


Hello vocalviixen,

The pipe that you referred to is the exhaust crossover pipe. Below I've included removal and installation instructions.

Also, the procedure for bleeding the coolant system is critical; if you need those instructions please post the question.

REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Disconnect the battery ground (negative) cable.
2. Remove the throttle body air inlet duct.
3. Drain the coolant from the cooling system.
4. Remove the inlet radiator hose from the engine.
5. Remove the thermostat bypass pipe.
6. Remove the exhaust crossover heat shield bolts.
7. Remove the exhaust crossover heat shield.
8. Remove the exhaust crossover pipe studs/nuts.
9. Remove the exhaust crossover pipe.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the exhaust crossover pipe.
2. Install the exhaust crossover pipe studs/nuts.
3. Tighten the exhaust crossover pipe studs/nuts to 18 lb ft.
4. Install the exhaust crossover heat shield.
5. Install the exhaust crossover heat shield bolts.
6. Tighten the exhaust crossover heat shield bolts to 89 lb in.
7. Install the thermostat bypass pipe.
8. Install the inlet radiator hose to the engine.
9. Fill the cooling system with engine coolant.
10. Install the throttle body air inlet duct.
11. Connect the battery ground (negative) cable.


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netvan

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Location of thermostat on 2002 olds alero 2.2


Thermostat Removal & Installation 2.2L Engine To Remove:
  1. Remove the exhaust manifold. If equipped with an automatic transmission.
  2. Drain the cooling system.
  3. Remove or disconnect the following: chevy_cav_02-04_tstat.gif

    • Thermostat housing to water pump feed pipe bolts. chevy_cav_02-04_feedpipe.gif

    • Thermostat housing to water pump feed pipe.
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To Install:
  1. Install or connect the following:
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  2. Fill the cooling system.
2.4L Engine To Remove:
Thermostat assembly 2.4L 87953024.gif

  1. Drain the cooling system.
  2. Remove the exhaust manifold heat shield.
  3. Remove the coolant inlet housing mounting bolts through the exhaust manifold.
  4. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  5. Remove the coolant inlet housing stud from the oil pan.
  6. Remove wheel and tire assembly.
  7. Remove the engine splash shield.
  8. Remove the mounting bolts from the transaxle-to-engine block support. Remove the support.
  9. Remove the coolant housing pipe.
  10. Remove the thermostat.
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To Install:
  1. Install the thermostat.
  2. Install the coolant housing pipe.
  3. Install and secure the transaxle support-to-engine block mounting bolts.
  4. Install the engine splash shield.
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1 Answer

I need instructions for replacing the turbo on a Saab 1999 9-5 4 cyl turbo


Hi, I have done this and it is not too bad, but will take you about 4 hours if you are good, and longer if you have not done much mechanics.

The trick is to find a reasonably priced turbo, check ebay. There is a dude on there that just does rebuilt turbos. Very good, got mine for $

I have been reading up on turbo replacement procedure and I have found this list: First, there are a couple of questions that I have about the list:

2 air openings, pretty easy to figure out
2 exhaust openings, pretty easy to figure out
3 round openings in the center, all banjo bolts?
1 round / two bolt opening in the center.
1 Hose fitting off of the waste-gate
1 Hose fitting off of the air side of the turbo.

STEP 1 Open the expansion tank cap to release the system pressure.
STEP 2 Raise the car & Remove the lower front cover under the car
STEP 3 Drain off the coolant & Remove the turbo brackets
STEP 4 Loosen the return fitting and the pipe from the turbo to the block
STEP 5 Loosen the oil pipe between the filter adapter and the turbo
STEP 6 Lower the car to the floor & Remove the bypass valve & Unplug the connector from the control valve
STEP 7 Disconnect the mass air flow sensor connector & Loosen the hoses to the turbo
STEP 8 Remove the crankcase banjo bolt from the intake manifold and unscrew the bolt from the cam cover
STEP 9 Move the pipe and wiring aside & Remove the engine lifting eye
STEP 10 Remove the mass air flow sensor and air hose
STEP 11 Remove the exhaust manifold heat shield by removing the nut and two clips from underneath
STEP 12 Undo the intake manifold clamp at the turbo & remove the intake
STEP 13 Disconnect the hose clip on the hose between the intercooler & turbo & plug it to keep something from falling in it
STEP 14 Loosen the front exhaust system from the turbo & lower the front exhaust system away from the turbo (DO NOT BEND -THE FLEX HOSE)
STEP 15 Remove the oil pipe from the oil filtermag-glass_10x10.gif adapter & grab the copper washers
STEP 16 Loosen the coolant pipe by the turbo & grab the copper washers & loosen the coolant pipe bolt
STEP 17 Remove the coolant return pipe from the cylinder head & pressure sensor bracket. Once again, Grab the copper washers
STEP 18 Undo the coolant return pipe bolt by the turbo
STEP 19 Undo the nuts securing the turbo to the exhaust manifoldmag-glass_10x10.gif. (spray the nuts with WD40)
STEP 20 Install in Reverse


Just did this for the first time. Here are a few hints that may help others.

1) PB BLASTER is your friend. Remove the exhaust top front heat shield and hit exhaust nuts with PB Blaster as soon as you start the job, or night before.

2) Make sure that you have 12mm closed end wrench with AND without ratchet. Also a 1/2 size 12mm socket if you can find / make. These will help.

3) You don't have to remove the oil filtermag-glass_10x10.gif, but there one bolt that it would be nice for. I did not and did manage to get the job done.

4) Take you time. More of finding the right tool combination for each bolt.

5) Two banjo bolts on the turbo were really on there. Needed to use a mini-acetylene torch to eat up.

6) Have extracting sockets and bits ready just in case there are issues getting bolts / nuts off.

Turbo had quite a bit of end-play, but spun fine. Classic symptoms, blue smoke at start up and from time to time when driving. It was also making a bit of noise at idle.

jeffo2 ort11


Also, should get new copper washers. I did not have I have some micro leaks from time to time but nothing bad.

Dec 15, 2008 | 1999 Saab 9-5

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