I'm finding the clutch lever span a little too wide for my small hand and as it doesn't have an adjustable disc its causing me a lot of discomfort after a while. Does any one know of an adjustable lever that I can get to overcome this
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Re: RS 250 Clutch Lever
That would fit okay round the switchgear?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.Dunno what this is like but the website is pretty handy as it has a few parts for the rs that you might also want to check out.
BARGAIN lol a bit steep then again if you got the cash to run the 250 in the first place........
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Because the clutch cable adjuster clearance increases with engine temperature, adjust
the clutch when the engine is cold. If the clutch is adjusted when the engine is hot, insufficient pushrod clearance can cause the clutch to slip.
1. Remove the clutch mechanism inspection cover and
2. Remove the clamp and slide the rubber boot off the clutch in-line cable adjuster.
3. Loosen the adjuster locknut and turn the adjuster to provide maximum cable slack.
4. Make sure the clutch cable seats squarely in its perch at the handlebar.
5. At the clutch mechanism, loosen the clutch adjusting screw locknut and turn the adjusting screw clockwise until it is lightly seated.
6. Squeeze the clutch lever three times to verify the clutch balls are seated in the ramp release mechanism located behind the transmission side cover.
7. Back out the adjusting screw counterclockwise 1/2 to 1 turn. Then hold the adjusting screw and tighten the locknut to 72-120 in.-lb.(8-14 N•m).
8. Once again, squeeze the clutch lever to its maximum limit three times to set the clutch ball and ramp release mechanism.
9. Check the free play as follows:
a. At the in-line cable adjuster, turn the adjuster away from the locknut until slack is eliminated at the clutch hand lever.
b. Pull the clutch cable sheath away from the clutch lever, then turn the clutch cable adjuster to obtain the clearance gap
c. When the adjustment is correct, tighten the clutch in-line cable locknut and slide the rubber boot over the cable adjuster.
10. Install the clutch inspection cover quad ring onto the primary chain case cover.
11. Install the clutch inspection cover and tighten the screws to 84-108 in.-lb. (9.5-12 N•m).
Take the motorcycle for at least a fifteen minute test
drive. Use this time to determine if the clutch needs to "grab" more or
less. For example, if you pull in the clutch lever and it is difficult
to shift, it grabs too much. On the other hand, if when you let the
clutch lever out the motorcycle is low on power, it is not grabbing
Set the motorcycle on its kickstand or, if like some dirt
bikes, it does not have one, prop it against a solid object so that it
will not fall over while being worked on.
Loosen the clutch cable if the clutch needs to "grab" more,
via the clutch cable adjuster bolts near the crankcase, until there is a
small amount of play in the cable. You should be able to move the
clutch lever just slightly with no change in the clutch's actuation.
Tighten the clutch cable if you need the clutch to "grab"
less. Tighten the cable until there is only a small amount of play left
in the cable. Pulling the lever from now on will make a much larger
difference in clutch actuation.
Tighten the clutch cable adjusters near the crank case and
take the motorcycle for a test ride in an open, private area. While
riding, use your left hand to adjust the barrel adjuster where the cable
housing meets the clutch lever to fine tune the adjustments made
previously. When you feel the clutch is set up properly, return to your
work area and tighten the barrel adjuster stop so that it will not
loosen as you ride.
On your bike it should be right there at the clutch lever. There should be a large round adjuster lock,screwed onto the actual adjuster. If it is too loose,..loosen the large round nut,and screw the small tube portion out (away from lever) untill it leaves a slight amount of play...about 1/8th of and inch, Then re-tighten the large round locknut. If its too tight,..loosen large locknuut,and screw small portion of adjuster in (towards lever) untill the correct slack is in the lever,then tighten the locknut.
It's only a 250 so it'll feel light to the touch. On the handlebar lever there is a cable attached with a slotted knurled nut, this can be adjusted to add about 1/8th free place before some tension is felt. If not tension is felt and the lever just flops then the clutch is way out of adjustment tighten it up, Normally this Knurled nut (it's actually a round grooved nut you twist or screw using your fingers) has a full adjustment range from the lever to completely unscrewed of about 1.25 inches
Adjust the "free play" to about an 1/8th as explained if this doesn't help then internal clutch work is needed and best left to those that work with motorcycle and not a novice.
Does it lurch forward a little? If so, First thing to check is the cable adjustment. As you pull on the clutch lever, you should be able to feel a little free play before the lever actually starts pulling the cable. You should have approximatley an 1/8 inch gap between the lever and the perch when lever engages the clutch.
If it's not the clutch dragging, check for a faulty kickstand switch.
if you change the leaver to a flater one you may fine that the cluch dont fully disengage and as its made of cheep aluminium it may not bend easly without braking unless you get it hot the only thing i can think of is let the cluch cable off a bit it will have to much slack on it but the leaver will come in a bit you could still pack out the slack on the handel bars if there is no ajuster on the cable you will need to cut away a bit of the outer cable to give you the slack,,
but if this dont work it will mean you need a new cable or fit in an ajuster
Sure you can fix it yourself. First lets make sure the cable is broke. When you pull in the clutch does the other end of the cable move?
If not then disconnect the cable from the lever and pull on the end by hand. Did you just pull a broken cable out of the sleeve?
If so then purchase a new cable and replce the broken one paying particular attention to the way it is routed. place the adjuster on the lever end a tad less than half way. Adjust the clutch end of the cable to take up the slack. Work the lever 3 times ( to seat everything) and use the adjuster at the lever for final adjustment. You want about 1/4 to 1/2 inch of play at the end of the lever befor the cable starts to actuate the clutch arm. Adjust and lock.