Question about 2004 Aprilia Caponord Rally Raid

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Caponored clutch oil leaking

Anybody had this problem? I heard that is a normal problem of Capos: the clutch oil is leaking beneath the reservoir cover and is eating the nice black paint of the clutch control reservoir. Anybody knows how to stop the slow but constant leaking from it?

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Have the exact same problem - I cannot figure out how to stop the cover from weeping fluid. Mine started when I had the clutch replaced about six months ago. Im dropping my bik in for its two year service in a few weeks and Ill see if I can get it fixed under warranty.

Posted on Nov 10, 2008

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Yamaha XV1600. I've got a small oil leak just started. On first sight it looks like beading (like on a wet window) from the bolts that hold the clutch cable on the clutch housing. I've taken the...


Hi, Nollbert_bau external oil deposits fall into 3 categories:
1. WEEPAGE is oil that is sweated pass gaskets, seals, o-rings, and crankcase seams, it's covered by dry dust and is normal for older engines with lots of miles, no repair is necessary.
2. SEEPAGE is the same as weepage except the deposit is wet and confines itself to a specific area, repair is optional depending on the owner's cleanliness criteria, the deposit location and the amount of "DRACHMA" he is willing to part with
3. LEAKAGE is the same as seepage except it is enough to drop to the ground leaving a spot. Repair as necessary.
To find the source of your oil leak, start at the point where you see oil and trace its path going up and forward, blowing baby powder from the palm of your hand will help in those difficult to see areas if there is too much oil present then buy a spray can of engine degreaser apply it to the affected area then rinse off with a pressure wand or garden hose, use compressed air to blow off excess water or just let it drip dry, take your bike for a 15 minute ride and check for the leak.
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1 Answer

When I shift gears, even from nuteral to first the gears make a hard clunk when they come together. Is this a clutch disk problem??


It could be a clutch problem, if you're disengaging the clutch and holding it for several seconds prior to attempting to shift gears. The gear clusters are heavy enough that, even in an engine oil bath, they'll spin for several seconds after the clutch has been disengaged. Within 10-15 seconds, however, they should be nearly stationary, if the clutch is functioning properly. It can also be aggravated by low viscosity oil in the crankcase; check to make sure that the viscosity of the oil is at least 40W (10W-40, 20W40); sometimes, toward the end of the oil's service life, it can suffer a significant loss in viscosity. If keeping the clutch disengaged longer doesn't minimize the grinding, flush the clutch hydraulic line; if that doesn't work, the clutch assembly will have to be removed and examined for bent or buckled diaphragm spring, pressure plate or clutch disks.

To flush the clutch hydraulic line, remove the left (shift lever side) rear cylinder cover (3 cap screws, 8mm Allen). Beneath the cover at the bottom, you'll see a neoprene "trapdoor"; that covers the drain fitting for the hydraulic clutch assembly. Loosen the fitting, slide a flexible tube over the fitting to route the old fluid to a pan or jar (you really DON'T want the old hydraulic fluid floating around under the cover), and pump the clutch lever, periodically refilling the reservoir on the handlebars, until the fluid coming out the drain is clear and free of bubbles. Remove the flexible tubing, tighten the drain fitting, and recheck clutch operation and gear noise when shifting.

If flushing the clutch hydraulic line does not quiet shifts, I would have to recommend purchase of any one of a number of good maintenance manuals to facilitate removing and inspecting the clutch "pack", the illustrations make a very difficult-to-read procedure quite straightforward.

Aug 17, 2010 | 2004 Yamaha Royal Star Venture

3 Answers

Clutch reservoir is dry on my daughters 96 Eagle Talon the car will not go into any gear.How do I flush the reservoir?If I add oil could this solve the problem


Do not put oil in this system.It uses brake fluid in the reservoir.If the system doesn't have any fluid in it, there is a leak, and both the clutch master cyl and the clutch slave should be replaced. They both were used the same amount of times, and wear evenly. When you add fluid, the clutch master cyl compresses the fluid down the line/hose into the clutch slave cyl. This depresses the clutch fork/arm and disengages the clutch disc so the input shaft into the transmission stops moving, allowing the trans to be put into gear. LOOK FOR THE FLUID LEAKING TO ISOLATE THE PROBLEM. This is a closed system, and the fluid never gets used, unless there is a leak.

Jan 07, 2010 | 1992 Eagle Talon

1 Answer

2004 holdern rodeo v6 clutch went to the floor was working all good before


The problem could come from the clutch master cylinder or the slave cylinder. The cause could be external or internal.

First check the fluid level in the reservoir. The reservoir could be independent of the brake system or using the same.

If the level is too low, air may have entered in the line and the hydraulic compression is affected. So first, adjust the level in the reservoir using recommended oil. (normally brake oil is ok).

Check for any oil leak starting from the clutch pedal following hydraulic circuit up to the transmission.
Your vehicule should have two clutch cylinders: the master and the slave.
The master cylinder is operated by your clutch pedal, it's located under the dash, fixed to the firewall and connected to the hydraulic line on the other side of the firewall. Check for any leak on the carpet, under the carpet and near the hydraulic connection. Pumping the pedal making that verification could help to detect leak. Then follow the hydraulic line going to the slave cylinder attached to the transmission making a visual inspection for leaks.
If for any reason some air entered the circuit, the line could be purged from air bleeding the slave cyclinder as you do bleeding brake component.
If there is no air, no leak detected then it's probably an internal problem that you can't see. Remove the cap from the reservoir, depress the pedal. If the oil is moving in the reservoir then the master slave is probably bad otherwise I would suspect the slave.
I'm not an Isuzu technician.
Some other Gurus could complement or correct my saying.
Hope it will help
Dan

Dec 20, 2009 | 2004 Isuzu Rodeo

1 Answer

Hi I went to buy a 1982 750 magna today. it started right up and was a little noisy but I think the engine is ok. The problem is that there was no fluid in the clutch reservoir and the bike won't shift...


You'll see a bleed valve at the left side of the engine under the side engine cover.
Top up the oil reservoir.
Loose the bleeder and clean it out.
Replace the bleeder, and put a transparent hose on it, to a bowl.
After a few minutes, the brakefluid should show up in the hose. Look permanently that there is enough fluid in the reservoir!

When fluid flows airbubble free, tighten the bleeder. Feel the cluthhandle, should feel 'nice' now.

Most times, the leak at the clutch piston is internal. You won't see traces at the outside of the engine.
You'll have to dismount the clutch piston to check him.

Oct 31, 2009 | 1982 Honda VF 750 S

1 Answer

Stop oil leaking


It's either a defective gasket (wrong shape or inconsistent thickness at seal surface) or poor installation (installed with a wrinkle, overtightened, etc.). Clearly it's a problem and not by design. If you're going to design something to leak, it's easier to do without a gasket! :rolleyes: Tell the Scuderia boys to fix it right. Should be warranty work, I'd think.

Nov 10, 2008 | 2000 Yamaha FZX 750 (Not in Europe)

1 Answer

How to stop clutch oil leaking


It's either a defective gasket (wrong shape or inconsistent thickness at seal surface) or poor installation (installed with a wrinkle overtightened etc.). Clearly it's a problem and not by design. If you're going to design something to leak it's easier to do without a gasket! Tell the Scuderia boys to fix it right. Should be warranty work, I'd think. ,,,

Nov 10, 2008 | 2005 Hartford VR 150Z

1 Answer

How to stop clutch oil leaking


It's either a defective gasket (wrong shape or inconsistent thickness at seal surface) or poor installation (installed with a wrinkle overtightened etc.). Clearly it's a problem and not by design. If you're going to design something to leak it's easier to do without a gasket! Tell the Scuderia boys to fix it right. Should be warranty work, I'd think. ,,,

Nov 10, 2008 | 2003 ATK 125 2-stroke

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