I took the bike to the dealer about the pinging ( this happened when trying to ride the bike hard - 1/2 throttle and up) and they tried to tell me that there was something loose on the bike that was making the noise ?. I checked on line and found a site wich talked about the same problem of pinging. What they did to fix theirs was to adjust the throttle position sensor. I tried this. The first reading I took was when the grip was at idle, according to the article the reading should be between 0.584 - 0.650. My reading was .650. Next was to take a reading with the grip twisted to wide open and get areading of 4.29 - 4.59.My reading was 4.37. I tried this and the first change I made my reading was 4.41. After rideing the bike there was no change as to when the pinging started. I then made another adjustment up to 4.49. After riding the bike this just seamed to move when the pinging started to 3/4 throttle. Should I try and take this number higher and also would this also help with the backfireing I am now getting after installing a true dual cobra exaust system.
Pinging, or pinking as it tends to be called over here, is caused by detonation where for various reasons the fuel charge in the cylinder, instead of starting to burn at the spark plug with the flame front spreading smoothly across the combustion chamber, begins to burn in more than one place and the pressure rises too quickly mostly causing the audible pinging. It doesn't do the engine any good at all and has been known to melt spark plugs and pistons and it isn't always audible...
Low grade fuel is one typical cause. Using a fuel with a lower octane rating than recommended is one reason for pinging.
Sometimes an engine will retain carbon in the combustion chambers instead of getting rid of it. I don't know what causes one engine to rid itself of surplus carbon and others to retain it but carbon build up makes the combustion chambers smaller and increases the compression ratio and pressure, theoretically requiring higher octane fuel.
Carbon in the combustion chamber could be causing a "hot spot" that in turn is causing the second flame front or even igniting the fuel before the spark plug fires.
The wrong grade of spark plug can be a contributory factor and it is possible your engine should have a colder grade of spark plug.
Ignition timing that is too advanced causes the pressure to be too high.
Your new exhaust system could have less back pressure than the original and this would tend to change the engine characteristics, particularly the fuelling that could now be a little on the weak or lean side which burns hotter and could be contributing to the pinging and also exhaust popping on deceleration (as does ill-fitting exhaust joints).
Fiddling around with the throttle position sensor would be unlikely to provide a complete and permanent cure, I feel. I once had brought to me an engine that pinged almost constantly when our fuel became unleaded. At first retarding the ignition timing worked but over a few months it had to be retarded more and more until the performance was terrible. After removing the cylinder head everything looked normal though the piston tops and combustion chambers looked strangely black but nothing could be scraped away to leave shiny metal.
Shiny metal was achieved after using a small chisel and a light hammer to remove a substantial layer of the hardest carbon I have ever encountered. The engine then ran normally with standard ignition timing.
SOURCE: 1983 FLHS starts and idles fine,pops and backfires when riding
In 1983 the carb used on this model was a kehin. They can be made to work well, with a couple of tweaks. First, on the top about midway, you will see a boss sticking straight up. Unless it has already been done, use a jabsaw and cut the top 1/8 inch off the top. Using a tiny improvised screwdriver, back out the idle adjustment screw which is down inside about a half a turn. Then remove the float bowl. You will see 2 tubes hanging down. Remove the rubber plug from the larger one and remove the low speed jet. The jet and the mixture screw are soft brass, so make sure you don't shred them. The jet has a number stamped on the end. Go to a knowlegble shop and get the next size up. For example if you have a 52 and they say the next size is a 54, that's what you want. Take the old jet with you and compair the size of the air holes along the side. They should be the same size. If not, they are selling you a jet for a cv carb and that will not work. (common mistake) Don't forget to shove that rubber plug back when you reassemble it. If I have your problem pegged correctly, the bike will be less cold blooded and the driveability will be much better.
SOURCE: Stalls to idle after riding for an hour.
It sounds like you probably need to replace the fuel filter, or you may have alot of trash in the bottom of your gas tank, possibly even water in the gas. If you can, take the tank off and clean it out well, making note if there is any trash in it, by emptying it into a bucket so you can examine it. Go ahead and replace the filter if you find any trash or water in the gas tank. If it is ok, then the next thing would be to check the fuel line for aging. Sometimes in rare cases, the hose gets old and weak and when you try to pull fuel through it, it can collapse and essential stop the gas flow, just as if you have turned the gas off, then when the suction is stopped the hose will open back up and appear to be in good shape. You can use your fingers and squeeze the line the entire length and see if it seems to feel excessively soft, if so that could also be causing your problem.
SOURCE: noise in the gear box of a 2004 suzuki rm 85 2 stroke
Sounds like the cam chain needs to be adjusted, it's normal for bigger bikes check a manual for the procedure for your bike. it normally take about five minutes. hope this helps
SOURCE: Bike backfires and I can't get a smooth ride
I would say it is a faulty engine temp or Air temp sensor,
SOURCE: How do you adjust rear shocks on a kawasaki 1500
should have a big spring nut to tighten the spring or to loosen it.how ever you want it the tighter the stiffer the shock gets loosen it softer it gets
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