Flames coming inside exhaust manifold, getting too hot sometimes, has melted wires on outside of alternator. What could be causing? Also, gas not affected by pedal, have to speed up fuel under hood,
Not getting power from gas pedal, have sometimes seen flames in manifold housing with exhaust pipe removed. Manifold getting cherry red, have to turn car off.
Had timing checked, marks not off. Someone said check Relay Module under air filter, does not look defective, any way to test it? Now car wants to die, not getting fuel, and can't hear fuel pump. Also, battery acts dead, but sparks when touched with jumper cables. Could the car not be grounded somehow?Had timing checked, marks not off. Someone said check Relay Module under air filter, does not look defective, any way to test it? Now car wants to die, not getting fuel, and can't hear fuel pump. Also, battery acts dead, but sparks when touched with jumper cables. Could the car not be grounded somehow?
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It is an Internal Combustion Engine, it is supposed to create flames, but you should never see them because the exhaust manifold has a gasket between the manifold and the engine block and then another gasket from the manifold to the catalytic converter. Then the hot gasses travel through the exhaust and come out the tail pipe as hot air. you need all the gaskets replacing or even just try tightening down the bolts.
Are you loosing radiator fluid. sometimes the heater core will rupture and you will smell burn odor. also check for strange rubbing sounds or screeching coming from the blower fan motor. or engine exhaust manifolds are hot when car is on, make sure nothing is leaning on them which will cause a burn odor. Any odor coming from outside will find it's way inside through the fresh air vents.
check the timing of the ignition as hot exhaust is a good indication of retarded ignition timing. Fire coming out past the exhaust valves because the mixture ha been ignited too late. Have this check out fast as you run the risk of burnt valves . The timing should be about 12 degrees before TDC not 12 degrees after TDC. IT will be the cause of the engine getting hot as well.
The exhaust manifold is going to get hot, this is where the engines exhaust flows through. these tempertures reach high temps,
If the manifold is glowing hot then theres a problem.
Sometimes people say the manifolds are getting to hot because they see them smoking. The reason on most of these cases is due to a leak, aleak from a bad gasket like a valve cover gasket. Engine oil leaks down on to the exhaust manifold causing smoke. make sure there are no leaks .
A few reasons that would cause exhaust manifold to heat up more than normal would be a engine thats running rich, this may be due to a leaking injector or a poor running engine. Another reason may be that you have a plugged cat. converter.
The Exhaust manifolds can reach about 600 degrees, the last thing is people hear the metal expand or contract and think there are getting to hot , this is normal.
Please let me know if there is something else i can help you with. thank you and have a good day.
The catalytic converter may be coming apart inside - the loose catalyst could be moving around and intermittently blocking the exhaust. A malfunctioning Exhaust Gas Recirculation valve could also be part of the problem. Sometimes carbon buildup in the exhaust manifold can cause trouble, but usually this causes stalling upon acceleration after coasting down a hill. Put your hand near the exhaust pipe outlet while a helper starts the engine. If the exhaust flow is highly variable in volume (not just simply on-off as it would be for a cylinder misfire), you definitely need to check for exhaust blockage. Fuel delivery problems (e. g. pressure bleed-down followed by fuel vaporization in the line) can cause hot start problems, but that doesn't account for the odd noise under the vehicle.
I'm not familiar with the Renault specifically, but most vehicles have a method of dealing with carburetor icing. When the weather is cool and damp and the air is sucked into either a carburetor or throttle body, the air pressure changes. Inside the intake manifold there is a significant vacuum condition. That sudden drop in air pressure causes the air temperature to drop significantly and can cause humidity in the air to condense on any available surface. While the rest of the engine is quite hot, the air intake can be quite cold. After running for a period of time, an ice ball can develop on the inside of the air intake; when that occurs, the engine will be incapable of proper operation and can stop running, at which point the heat from the engine will diffuse, warming the intake and melting the ice. To solve that problem, most vehicle manufacturers use a carburetor de-icing system that basically consists of a tube that runs from around the exhaust manifold up to the air intake. By the time any ice can start to build up on the inside of the air intake, the outside of the exhaust manifold has become quite warm, and any air that passes the exhaust manifold is heated enough to prevent the icing problem. So the short answer is, make certain that the tube is in place, provided that Renault's used that system.
The Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system is used
to reduce Oxides of Nitrogen (NOx) in the engine exhaust. This is
accomplished by allowing a predetermined amount of hot exhaust gas to
recirculate and dilute the incoming air and fuel mixture. This process
reduces peak flame temperature during combustion. The system uses a
vacuum-controlled Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) valve, in order to
modulate exhaust gas flow from the exhaust manifold into the intake
manifold. i hope this helps you plz vote comment if need more help reply
a few things i can think of as this happen to me on my ford , somebody left a rag in exhaust pipe before refitting , funnily enough this has happened , but i think if vacume hoses are incorrectly fitted this can cause this also , also check timing , also the exhaust gas return pipe may have fault at the inlet manifold regulator , which is where the pipe comes of the inlet manifold , check that also , sometime that valve is at fault .
There is a massive amount of current draw from the battery which is causing the alternator to run at a constant maximum charge rate. So look for any equipment you may have running on your truck - e.g large stereo system/amplifiers that they are not putting too much load on the battery.
If you have and external regulator then the regulator needs to be replaced as it is causing the alternator to charge at maximum output.
Make sure that if it is close to an exhaust manifold that the heat shield is back in place, heat coming from the exhaust manifold can also cause this problem.
Hope this helps you out, let me know how you get on.
Had timing checked, marks not off. Someone said check Relay Module under air filter, does not look defective, any way to test it? Now car wants to die, not getting fuel, and can't hear fuel pump. Also, battery acts dead, but sparks when touched with jumper cables. Could the car not be grounded somehow?
yes it could be a bad ground and I dont think you can test relays
also ,how many miles on rig ? the timing belt or chain could have slipped
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