Performance 95' 1.9 totely whent through the moter. bored 40 over 120tho bigger valves port and polish and high comp. pistons my question is can i advance the timeing afordably note the eeciv ignition

Question edited for clarity.

AI Chat GPT4 answer by Shwet Kashyap deleted.

When the vehicle standard size rings are used and this will be mentioned in the Service Manual. If the cylinders are rebored, oversize rings are used and there is normally 2 larger sizes. If you are replacing rings, you should always use an internal micrometer to measure the bores because the bores can wear oval across the bore. This is caused by the lateral force of the connecting rods. If the bore is within limits they should be honed. This removes the glaze and makes the bore slightly rough so that the new rings and bore polish themselves together to make a good fit.

Pistons, piston rings, circlips and gudgeon pins in this link.

https://www.google.com/search?q=1999+Daewoo+Lanos+1.4+piston+rings

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There are a number of possible reasons to get smoke including:
Cylinder bore scored, causing rings to not seat.
Damaged rings during piston replacement
Valve guides leaking
Mixture wrong (is smoke blue, white or black?)

use high octane gas and a high output coil, and straight through exhaust with no muffler, add a high performance cam, bore out the cylinders as big as possible, get the heads ported and polished, use dome pistons, etc etc.

You could put in a turbo or increase air flow.
You could buy an aftermarket ecu which is tuned for performance.
You could also get a machinist to make the cylinder bores bigger and put in bigger pistons etc but this may be expensive.
Or replace the engine.

I would guess you would be very close to the 1 horsepower per cubic inch ball park with very comparative torque figures, but...so much depends on how well the fuel mixture and ignition timing is set up. The port and polish work is also very important, bigger isn't always better, it's the shape that matters. Smooth ports actually flow worse than ports with an even cast surface. It's the protrusions and transitions that matter the most, not the surface.
On the dyno, at the rear wheels, I say about 290 hp and 300 torque with good gas and the timing optimized. This may sound weak, but it is an impressive real world repeatable attainable goal in my opinion. Peak numbers at the crank would be far higher, but driveline loss is huge, and so subjective because of tires, trannys and gears.

I just checked Ebay, and there are two listed. You might try Craigs List.

(Tips from me:
Port the Vortec head. Open the Intake and Exhaust ports, by smoothing them out, and smoothing the casting sprue lines out.

Put the Intake gasket, and the Exhaust gasket on the head, (After marking the area with Prussian Blue)
Scribe the opening of the gasket, onto the head, then match the ports to the scribed lines.

You also should round the valve guides top surface. (Where the valve stem meets the guide) There is a square edge that needs to be rounded. This square edge interferes with the fuel/air mixture, as the sharp edge breaks the fuel/air mixture down into droplets.
You want to keep the fuel/air mixture atomized, Not droplets.

Also narrow the casting that comes up the side of the valve guide. (Squared off shape that follows up the guide, and makes the Vortec shape swirl shape in the Intake port) Narrow it to more of a small rounded edge.

Do not polish the Bottom of the intake ports. Leave them as a rough casting. Smooth, and polish the Sides, and Top of the Intake port. (Do not get Extreme! You'll go into the water jacket with your die grinder! Factory may have had a casting shift that day. Just smooth things up)

Makes a nice swirl pattern for the fuel/air mixture.
If you polish the floor, (Bottom), of the Intake port, you will create Two swirl patterns, and they will collide with each other, making droplets again. (They cancel each other out. You want one nice swirl pattern flowing through the Intake port)

I can bring my 1985 Fiero up to 155Mph, (On dragstrip set up for this, tires, and proper safety equipment used). I can also 'Keep my foot' out of the throttle, and get 45 miles to the gallon on the highway.

You can use flat top 350 Chevy pistons. The 2.5 Vin R Fiero engine has a 4 inch bore like a small block Chevy. The pistons can be put on the Fiero rods. Same wrist pin size. The piston drops down into the engine block, about .030 below deck height.

(Wrist pin to piston crown height, is .030 shorter with 350 Chevy piston, compared to stock Fiero piston. You can buy 4 - 350 Chevy pistons AND rings, compared to the price of just the rings, for a Fiero!)

(Thirty thousandths. Real close to 1/32nd of an inch. .03125 is 1/32nd of an inch)

Fiero's have dish head pistons, so the drop in deck height, and using a Flat Top 350 Chevy piston equals out. (Better flame travel with flat top piston. Better burn, more power. Uses more of the fuel/air mixture than a dish head design)
If you can't afford to have them balanced, use a beam scale, and balance them yourself.

I can bring my 1985 Fiero up to 155Mph, (On dragstrip set up for this, and proper safety equipment used). I can also 'Keep my foot' out of the throttle, and get => 45 miles to the gallon on the highway. (Throttle Body Fuel Injection. TBI)

Makes a V6 Fiero cringe!

that vehicle is listed as an interference motor which means it could have bent the vavles or even hurt the pistons. One way to check is pull the plugs and perform a leak down test if air leaks out the intake or ex you have bent valves. Also if you know someone with a good quality bore scope you can put it in the plug holes and look at the valves and the pistons. How much to fix is hard it depends on how many miles are on the truck and what shape it is in to see if it is worth it to do. If the vehicle has very high miles you may want to look at a junkyard motor with lower miles may be the best route but if you get one with over 60000 miles on it replace the t-belt before installing to be on the safe side

port polish only on heads, they crack plus valve job. on the block and cam, that motors all torque so go with low end output, fat cam, 30 over max on bore-they crack. safest way for big power is a stroke kit. call edelbrock tell them you wishes and what you have now, main thing is how much your gonna have to bore to clean up walls, and they give you some good options. unless you have alota money and dont require this motor to be dependable dont expect more than 320hp and 350 ft of torque. 302 will take you farther cheaper and lighter for your money. if your talking for a car and not a truck- go 302 and dont look back

Either one would be great, depends on what prices you can find, if your replacing the internals, then it doesnt really matter which one you go with, especially if you are boring the cyllinders. Be careful not to bore more than is needed though, as you are planning high boost. You will also need to either sleeve the cyllinders or at the minimum weld in a girdle at the top. As for the 4 speed, no, you will need to swap tranny's, if you go with an OBD-0 motor to match up to your car, the matching tranny's weren't hydraulic, but your old one will only mate up to a D-series motor, and besides, it would never handle the power. Careful on your selection of compression ratio on the pistons also. You will need to make sure you stay with a low compression if your going turbo (ie. 8.5-9.0) If your not slapping a turbo on immediately, you will either sacrifice power for now, or if you go with higher compression pistons, then they will need to be replaced when you boost. Also, make sure you google around and find what kind of horsepower ratings your expecting, and see what size injectors your needing, and will of course need to replace your stock fuel pump. You by this point will be needing some sort of aftermarket engine management also.

what sort of rings were used.you could cut open the oil filter and see whats in there what condition were the bottom end bearings in.running too hot?what sort of pistons,forged or cast?how was it run in