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Fuel and air screw adjustment on 1986 yamaha pw80 y zinger

Posted by Anonymous on

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 245 Answers

SOURCE: 1986 YF 60 4-Zinger. carb settings

The air/fuel screws won't have any effect on the top end. That would be governed by the main jet. Did you install the Boyseen Reeds? If this is a new addition it could be the problem. Another thing could be the fuel level in the carburetor bowl. When you tore down the carb it is possible the float got out of adjustment. You could drop the bowl and see if the fuel level is correct. If not, bend the tab on the float to adjust it.

Posted on Oct 03, 2009

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  • 23 Answers

SOURCE: how do you remove the seat ?? on a pw80 yamaha

There should be two bolts/ one per side on the rear side panels. The should be about 10mm and they hold the side panels and the rear of the seat to the frame. Remove those two bolts, and then slide your seat rearward, because there is a plastic tab that holds the seat to the gas tank. Installation is reverse. Slide fwd, install bolts. Good Luck.22

Posted on Jun 13, 2009

  • 434 Answers

SOURCE: I HAVE A 1995 YAMAHA WAVE RUNNER SJ700 SUPER JET. I

In all the way and then out 1 and a half turns.

Posted on Oct 13, 2009

  • 34 Answers

SOURCE: my yamaha pw80 wont tick over

make sure enough petrol is getting to your carb, check the fuel line going from your tank to the carb make sure it is completely free nothing bloacking it t all, nd if that does not work buy some carb cleaner :)

Posted on Aug 01, 2010

Suzman
  • 642 Answers

SOURCE: i have a 1986 yamaha

Refer to the diagram
1 - Overflow drain pipe
2 - Fuel supply(Larger diameter than oil supply line)
3 - Oil supply
4 - Air box
A - Pin for the throttle valve groove. Align the groove in the valve with this pin.
B - Choke valve

suzman_44.jpg

Should require further assistance please leave a comment.

Posted on Nov 26, 2010

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Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Fuel cap or fuel tank is not venting properly.
2. Fuel filter clogged.
3. Fuel line pinched or kinked.
4. Float needle and seat sticking.
5. Float level too low.
6. Carburetor bowl vent line clogged/blocked/pinched.
7. Idle adjusting screw set too low.
8. Air/fuel mixture screw set too lean.
9. Idle port, transfer ports, slow air jet clogged.
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Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery, should have 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a load test if necessary.
2. Failed alternator/generator and or voltage regulator.
3. Loose or corroded battery terminals and or cables especially the "NEGATIVE" cable, look for loose, corroded, or broken connectors inside the cable harness at "BOTH" ends.
4. Failed main circuit breaker or ignition switch, check for loose connections and continuity.
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6. Failed ignition coil, ignition/electronic module.
7. Failed CKP, CPS, CMP, MAP, TPS, or BAS sensor, corroded, loose or broken wire connector pins/sockets.
8. Throttle cables and or idle speed improperly adjusted hot idle speed should be 950 RPM to 1000 RPM.
9. Air/fuel mixture screw improperly adjusted.
10. Accelerator pump damaged or not working.
11. Water or dirt in the fuel system, carburetor or filter.
12. Restricted, blocked or kinked fuel line.
13. Fuel tank empty.
14. The gas cap is not venting properly or fuel tank venting system blocked.
15. A failed fuel pump, pressure regulator and or fuel injectors.
16. Vacuum line from intake manifold to petcock broken, cracked, or not attached, carburetor vent line plugged.
17. Needle and seat stuck closed in the float bowl.
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Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery, should have 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a load test if necessary.
2. Failed alternator/generator and or voltage regulator.
3. Loose or corroded battery terminals and or cables especially the "NEGATIVE" cable, look for loose, corroded, or broken connectors inside the cable harness at "BOTH" ends.
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11. Water or dirt in the fuel system, carburetor or filter.
12. Restricted, blocked or kinked fuel line.
13. Fuel tank empty.
14. The gas cap is not venting properly or fuel tank venting system blocked.
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Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Idle circuit and transfer ports clogged.
2. Air fuel mixture adjustment too lean.
3. Pilot jet clogged.
4. Faulty accelerator pump.
5. Float level too low.
6. Float bowl contaminated old fuel, water, dirt, rust, etc.
7. Float bowl vent or overflow tube clogged.
8. Fuel flow to carburetor restricted.
9. Intake manifold leak.
10. The gas cap is not venting properly or fuel tank venting system blocked.
11. Vacuum line from intake manifold to petcock broken, cracked, or not attached, carburetor vent line plugged.
12. Needle and seat stuck closed in the float bowl.
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Hi, Anonymous you need to make sure you have no intake leaks by spraying some Brake Kleen, Contact Cleaner, Starting Fluid etc. around the intake manifold and seals, if the RPM's go up or down significantly then you have a leak that needs to be fixed before you can continue with the carburetor adjustment.
The engine should be at operating temperature with the enrichener off to set the idle between 950-1050 rpm. Turn the idle skrew clockwise to increase the idle speed and counterclockwise to decrease the idle speed. If you have access to your air fuel mixture skrew you may turn it as well, if not there is a video below on how to gain access, make sure you start with clean or new spark plugs. Gently turn the air fuel mixture skrew clockwise until it starts to bottom out "STOP" do not over tighten as it will damage the taper on the end, now back the skrew out 1-1/2 full turns to establish a starting point start the engine and check the idle rpm's and turn the idle skrew accordingly for 950-1050 rpm if necessary, turn the air fuel mixture skrew 1/4 turn at a time and let the engine settle for about 10 seconds, turn the skrew clockwise for a leaner mixture and counterclockwise for a richer mixture, you are seeking the highest rpm your air fuel mixture skrew can acquire without going past 3 full turns from bottom then resetting the idle skrew back down to 950-1050 rpm If you can not detect any rpm change and can not stall the engine by turning the air-fuel mixture skrew all the way in then your pilot/low-speed jet is too big and needs to be replaced with the next size smaller. Final adjustment should be made with a clean air filter mounted to the carburetor.
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Hi, Stevewright3 it should be noted that the "AIR FUEL" mixture screw adjustment "ONLY" manages your idle and has no effect on any other circuit also any intake leaks must be repaired before the A/F adjustment procedure can be performed otherwise you will never obtain a proper idle and you will waste a lot of time chasing the impossible. The A/F mixture screw's purpose is to fine tune the fuel charge entering the combustion chamber. The following applies to both 2 and 4 stroke engines:
1. The mixture screw may be sealed at the factory with a Welch Plug please review the following video for removal.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wAXcksgvDkM
2. The mixture screw manages a range of 3 complete 360-degree counterclockwise turns from the bottom/closed position.
3. The mixture screw should have a spring and o-ring for tension and sealing integrity.
4. Turn the mixture screw clockwise until it gently bottoms out, this makes the fuel charge very lean and the engine should not idle if it does then the pilot/idle jet is too big and needs to be replaced with the next size smaller.
5. Turn the mixture screw 1 and 1/2 turns counterclockwise to establish a baseline for starting the engine.
6. To fine-tune the idle circuit, adjust the mixture screw 1/4 turn in or out to achieve maximum idle RPM, wait 15 seconds between each adjustment for the idle to settle.
7. Never go past 3 full turns out this will make the fuel charge rich, foul plugs, and produce black smoke out of the exhaust, if the engine RPM keeps increasing past 3 turns the pilot/idle jet is too small and needs to be replaced with the next size larger.
7. After achieving maximum idle back out the mixture screw another 1/8 of a turn then adjust the throttle cable idle stop screw to 950-1050 RPM.
8. This procedure works great on 99% of all engines, for the 1% that demand a more robust throttle response on aftermarket monster fuel delivery systems additional tweaking outside the box may be necessary.
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1 Answer

1986 YF 60 4-Zinger. carb settings


The air/fuel screws won't have any effect on the top end. That would be governed by the main jet. Did you install the Boyseen Reeds? If this is a new addition it could be the problem. Another thing could be the fuel level in the carburetor bowl. When you tore down the carb it is possible the float got out of adjustment. You could drop the bowl and see if the fuel level is correct. If not, bend the tab on the float to adjust it.

Oct 03, 2009 | Yamaha XS 400 L Maxim Motorcycles

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