Question about 2003 Harley Davidson FLHR Road king

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How do I replace the 2003 road king fuel level sender

The fuel tank on my Road King was replaced prior to me buying it. I have installed a new fuel gauge propery, but it does not register at all, only lights up. How do I replace or check the fuel level sender?

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  • Harley Davidson Master
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Use the following as a template fro how to get at the fuel sender:

The fuel pump pressurizes the fuel rail/line to a high pressure in the neighborhood of approximately 58 psi. so to avoid an uncontrolled discharge or spray of gasoline, the pressure must always be bled off prior to fuel line removal and top plate removal. To do this remove the left side saddlebag and the left side cover and then remove the remove 15 amp fuel pump fuse. And then start the engine and allow the motorcycle to run until it stalls and then turn the engine over for about three seconds to remove any remaining fuel from the fuel supply line. THEN remove the maxi-fuse and reinstall the 15 amp fuel pump fuse. THEN remove the filler cap and drain fuel tank with a safe method of your choice and store the fuel or appropriately dispose of it. THEN remove the seat the console by releasing the socket screw to release front of console from the fuel tank weldment, the hex screw to release rear console bracket from the clip nut on the rear fuel tank bracket. NOW lay a clean shop towel or towels on the forward part of the rear fender and lay the console upside down on them. Then you will need to get a special tool for Cam ring removal and installation. HD have one as part number HD-48646) which tool you will place over the top plate, aligning the four notches at the bottom of the tool with the four tabs on the cam ring. THEN get a 1/2 inch drive ratchet, install it in the tool and rotate in a counterclockwise direction until the cam ring is loose. BE CAREFUL to properly align the tool and push down on it while rotating it to loosen the ring and to control the ring because if it slips off the ting during rotation and hold both the ratchet and tool carefully so it cannot slip and slide across the fuel tank doing substantial paint damage. WHEN it is loose remove the retaining ring, insert a small plain screwdriver between the latch and top plate, depress either side of the latch, gently tug on the harness and remove the top plate up by lifting it up. THEN locate the ground wire spade terminal in the slot of the top plate, insert the tip of a small flat blade screwdriver through the window to depress the tang, and then pull the terminal from the slot. THEN depress the collars and remove the tubes from the fittings on the fuel filter shell. Move the top plate to a bench area and remove the filter (which would also be necessary it the top plate replacement is necessary).

If installing a new top plate, first install the fuel filter shell pursuant to the fuel filter replacement instructions I have set out below.

Carefully inspect the seal ring at the bottom of the top plate for cuts, tears or other signs of deterioration and if necessary, install a new seal ring with the nubs contacting the ring groove walls. THEN move the top plate back to the motorcycle and connect the two different sized tubes to the proper sized fittings on the fuel filter shell. The tube with the smaller diameter fitting runs from the fuel pump to the fuel filter housing and the tube with the larger diameter fitting runs from the fuel pressure regulator housing to the fuel supply valve. THEN install the connector at the bottom of the top plate and route the ground wire from top plate connector along the inboard side of the vapor valve and install the spade terminal into the slot in the top plate and gently tug on the wire to verify that the terminal is locked in place and if it is not locked in properly bend the tang upward slightly away from the terminal body with a thin flat blade, like that on a hobby knife, to enable it to lock in place. THEN install the fuel tank top plate by inserting the index tab on the outer diameter in the slot at the front of the fuel tank collar and install the cam ring over the fuel tank top plate with the "TOP" stamp facing up. If there is a filler cap present on fairing equipped models, remove it. NOW get the CAM RING REMOVER/INSTALLER tool and one half inch ratchet assembly and place it/them in over top plate carefully aligning the four notches at the bottom with the four index tabs on the cam ring and then carefully pushing down on the tool with both hands, rotate it in a clockwise direction until each of the four index tabs begin to engage slots in fuel tank collar. And continue rotation until the index tabs are all the way seated into the slots. You should use the same care when aligning and pushing down onto both the ratchet and the tool and rotating the tool as was done when removing the ring to avoid unnecessary damage to the fuel tank paint etc. When this done reinstall the console. Being careful to avoid pinching any of the wire harness and vent tube while reinstalling the console back onto the fuel tank and then start the socket screw to fasten the front of the console to the fuel tank weldment and then start the hex screw to fasten the rear console bracket to the clip nut on the rear of the fuel tank bracket and alternately tighten the socket/hex screws to 36-60 in lbs (4.1-6.8 Nm). THEN install the seat, maxi-fuse, left side cover and left side saddlebag. THEN put fuel in the fuel tank, carefully inspect for leaks, start the engine inspect for leaks again.

Fuel Filter replacement instructions:

After you have removed the fuel tank top plate and find the ground wire spade terminal in the slot of the fuel filter shell. Then insert the tip of a small flat blade screwdriver through the window to depress a tang, and then pull the terminal from the slot and then gently raise the locking arm and pull the U-clip from the holes in the fuel filter shell and remove the fuel filter shell from the end cap and then also remove the o-ring and filter from the fuel filter shell. To reinstall a new filter in the fuel filter shell seat a new o-ring on the counterbore at the top of the filter and then install the fuel filter shell over the end cap, so that the slot in the fuel filter shell engages the index pin on the end cap and then. Holding the parts together, slide the U-clip through the holes on the locking arm side of the fuel filter shell and push the U-clip until its ends exit the holes on the opposite side and then retract U-clip until contact is made with the step in the locking arm. When that is done route the ground wire from top plate TORX screw around the index pin side of the end cap and install the spade terminal into the slot in the fuel filter shell and gently tug on the ground wire to verify that the terminal is locked in place. If the ground terminal does not lock in place properly use a thin flat blade,(like that on a hobby knife), to bend the tang outward slightly away from the terminal body. Then reinstall the top plate.
DIAGNOSE as follows:

Posted on Nov 16, 2014


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a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
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sounds like a fuel sending unit problem or an issue with the sending unit's float. May need replacing. HD- hundred dollar

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SOURCE: where is the oil dipstick on an 03 road king

The oil dipstick is located on the right side of bike almost directly under the football cover for the air cleaner. It's a round knob that pulls directly out (Kind of wiggle as you pull on it). Just check like a regular car dipstick pull, wipe and reinsert and then look at dipstick.

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SOURCE: Oil change directions, 2003 Road King

The drain plug is on the left side of the oil reservoir pointing towards the front of the bike. The motor should be warm when you dump the oil and the o-ring should be replaced as an extra precaution (don't want to waste that new oil if you have a drip). When replacing the oil filter use a piece of tin foil to divert the oil to your waste pan.

Posted on Jul 23, 2009

Mr BrokRench
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SOURCE: valve noise 2006 road king

Hello redevil67...This is normal for the HD engine, it going to have valve train, top end noise at some point, some as early as 2000 miles. If you take it to the dealer they will try to sell you on worn tappets...key word here SELL..I've seen this many times, dealer replaces componets, 2000 miles later the noise returns.
These are hydraulic valves and as you probably know they operate at zero lash. Personaly, i feel that the problem is that the cams are not hardened properly or machined incorrectly.. When the leading edge of the cam lobes wear to a strange profile it tends to snap the lifter up in the lifter bore. This causes the rest of the valve train to rattle. You hear the noise on top but the culprit makin it, is the cams..Many chose to go with an aftermarket cam, such as an andrews...Another suggestion, is to switch oils. Don't know what you are useing now, but i'm not a fan of dino oil. As the temperature builds the more an oil is stressed. Lucas full synthetic 20w-50 or Mobil1 15w-50 are both excellent for anti-wear and long term protection.
I hope this helps, please rate me a fixya and good luck with your bike.

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SOURCE: Idel adjustment on fuel injected road king.\not on

Thats not totally correct. remove your air filter cover. look to the lower right side. You will see a small hole thats where the screw driver goes in to adjust your idle. Ya the dealer has a scanlizer that can also do it if u want to spend the bucks.

Posted on Dec 20, 2009

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