Question about Harley Davidson Motorcycles
The oil will drain out of the motor in about 3min. with the engine running at idle.
It sounds to me that you have excessive pressure in the crankcase possible from a broken ring or a cracked piston.
Posted on Feb 24, 2012
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Replacing the pads on your Fat Boy is not difficult but you need to pay close attention to the way things are put together as you take it apart. Particularly the little steel pad retainers and the anti-rattle spring. These parts are made and go together in such a way that it's very hard to describe how they go in.
To remove the pads, take the two caliper retaining bolts out of the disc brake caliper. These are usually Torx head bolts. Once you get the bolts out, the caliper simply slides to the front and off of the pads. You'll need a way to push the piston back into the caliper so it will go down onto the new pads. I usually do this with a large pair of slip joint pliers. Make sure you put a rag or something on your calipers so you don't damage the piston or the paint.
Now, look at the way the pads, the little steel pieces at each end of the pads and the anti-rattle spring are in the caliper support bracket. Remove the old pads and parts and install the new pads and parts in the same way. Make sure you put the fiber face of the pad TOWARDS THE ROTOR. Don't laugh, I've lots of people put them in backwards, especially on the back side of the rotor.
Now, carefully slide the caliper back down over the pads taking care not to knock the pads out of there positions. I put a little Loctite 242 (med. strength blue) on the threads of the caliper retainer bolts and reinstall them. Torque them to about 25 foot pounds.
Check the brake fluid level in the rear master cylinder and slowly "pump" the rear brake pedal until the rear brake feels firm. Wait a few minutes and mash the brake pedal one time to the bottom. If it goes down to lower point and then on the next "pump" is higher, you probably need to bleed air from the system.
Open the bleeder valve on the caliper, press the rear brake pedal to the bottom and hold it there, close the bleed valve, and then release the brake pedal. Continue to do this until all the air is out of the system and the rear brake pedal feels firm on the first time it's depressed. While doing this, never allow the rear brake fluid reserviour to run out of fluid. If it does, you'll have to start all over with the bleeding process. Use only DOT 5 brake fluid. DOT 5 and DOT 3 or 4 are NOT compatible and will not mix. If they are mixed, it will cause you a lot of trouble in the future.
Test the brakes before you ride the bike and then again when you first ride the bike at a very low speed. Failure to do this job properly can cause serious injury or death. Brakes must operate properly. Good Luck!
Posted on Oct 24, 2009
I doubt it. The Fat Boy is a member of the Softail family. In 1999, the Softails were running Evolution engines. They didnt' go to the TC-88B engine until 2000 and that required a frame change. I don't think it will fit but you never really know until you try it.
Posted on Sep 07, 2010
1) Can not find this spec.
2) C50 rake is 33 degrees, Fat Boy's is 32.
3) Many have had over 50k miles without any major engine work. Luck and riding conditions determine this to a large degree, but I would say that most need to start thinking about valve/ring work at 60K.
4)Valve adjustment recommended at every 7500 miles; about a 4-hour backyard job, but doable without any real specialized tools. (I've been letting mine slide for 19k, just because it's been running so good!) Cam chain tensioner failures have been reported, but this seems to be the exception, and the use of synthetic oil may lessen the chances, Problems with water getting to the rear shaft splines have prompted owners to pull them and add Molybdenum paste at each rear tire change, and this requires replacing the oil seal- about $11.
5) Depends on current mileage and price, but with a modicum of proper care, you could expect 50k miles of riding without major issues.
Posted on Nov 18, 2010
SOURCE: How do i change a
Replacing the gasket on the cam cover of your Fat Boy is not a job for the faint hearted. It''s quite complicated because of the fact that you must get the pressure off the cam to get the cam cover back on once you get it off. You must also be very careful as to not change the camshaft timing with either the pinion gear or the breather gear.
If your Fat Boy has stock pushrods in it, you'll have to take the fuel tanks off, the air filter, and then take the rocker box covers off. Rotate the engine until you get one cylinder to top dead center on the compression stroke with both valves closed. Pull the push rod tube expanders out collapsing the pushrod tube and take the 5/16" bolt at the right end of the rocker arm shaft out. Slide the rocker arm shaft out and remove the rocker arm and the pushrod. Do this on boht the intake and exhaust pushrods. Notice that the pushrods are color coded meaning that they go in a particular location. Do not get them mixed up. Do the same thing to the other cylinder. The purple colored pushrod goes to the rear exhaust, the blue coded pushrod goes to the rear intake, the yellow coded pushrod goes to the front intake, and the green coded pushrod goes to front exhaust.
Now, that you have all the pushrods out of the engine, take the bolts out of the tappet guides and remove them. Keep the tappets in their original bores, do not mix them up. Check the roller bearings on end of the tappets for any up and down play. If you find a worn tappet, it should be replaced. You can replace the gasket on the cam cover without removing the tappet guides but you must remove the pushrods to get the pressure off the cam. If you remove the tappet guides, you will need a pair of "alignment pins" to align the tappet guides with the camshaft upon reinstalling them. Torque the bolts to 100 inch pounds.
Now, remove the cover that covers the ignition timing unit in the nosecone. Mark the timing plate inside the cavity so that you can reposition it in exactly the same place when you go to put it all back together. Remove the timing plate and the timing "cup" behind it. Take all the bolts out of the timing cover. The cover is mounted on two large dowel pins. You can pry the oil pump side of the cam cover off just a bit with a large screwdriver. Then, use a thin putty knife to work the other side loose. YOU MUST HOLD THE CAM IN POSITION BY PUSHING INWARD ON IT AS YOU REMOVE THE CAM COVER. DO NOT ALLOW THE CAM TO COME FAR ENOUGH TO LET IT GET OUT OF TIMING WITH EITHER THE PINION GEAR OR THE BREATHER GEAR. IT MUST BE TIMED CORRECTLY. The bolts that hold the cam cover on are different lengths, remember where they go.
When you go to reinstall the cam cover, make sure you get all the bolts in the correct holes. Reinstall the tappet blocks if you took them out. Reinstall the pushrods, pushrod tubes, and rocker arms in the last cylinder that you removed them from. Torque the 5/16" bolt to 13-15 foot pounds. Wait for the tappets to bleed down and you can turn them with your fingers. Turn the engine until the other cylinder is at top dead center on the compression stroke. Reinstall the pushrods, pushrod tubes, and rocker arms on that cylinder. Again wait until the pushrods will spin with your fingers before rotating the engine.
Reinstall the timing cup and the timing plate in the timer cavity in the cam cover. Make sure you get the marks you put on the plate and the cover aligned precisely. Reinstall the rocker boxes with new gaskets. Torque the bolts to 80-100 inch pounds. Reinstall the fuel tanks.
Posted on Mar 25, 2011
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