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Yamaha YBR 125 2009 problem. Jumping / unstable rev, stopping engine problem. Battery looks ok 12.5v alternator too 13,3 charging voltage but engine do not want to start normally only from the kick. Working engine generally have stable rev but rpm indicator jumps like on movie. Frequently engine likes to stop after 100m or 2km or just like on video during revving. I have check most of the connector underneath but it looks like some of electric circuit parts causing that problem. you tube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ThNWpwGrN2w&feature=youtu.be Any suggestion welcome.

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Dead Alternator?

Those voltage numbers are horrible. Just sitting on your workbench, the battery should read at least 12.8 volts. And without the gear turned on, the voltage at idle should be above 14 volts. I have a hunch you're going to find the voltage regulator and/or bad connections in the brown coupler are the culprit, but I suppose it wouldn't hurt to check the alternator. Unplug the brown coupler, set your meter to read AC volts and probe any two of the yellow wires in the harness side of the coupler. Rev the engine to 4000 rpm and you should see at least 60 volts AC. If you consider the three yellow wires to be A, B, and C, you'll need to perform this test on the pairs A-B, A-C, and B-C. Good luck.

Posted on Nov 10, 2008

  • 2336 Answers

SOURCE: Dead Alternator?

Those voltage numbers are horrible. Just sitting on your workbench, the battery should read at least 12.8 volts. And without the gear turned on, the voltage at idle should be above 14 volts. I have a hunch you're going to find the voltage regulator and/or bad connections in the brown coupler are the culprit, but I suppose it wouldn't hurt to check the alternator. Unplug the brown coupler, set your meter to read AC volts and probe any two of the yellow wires in the harness side of the coupler. Rev the engine to 4000 rpm and you should see at least 60 volts AC. If you consider the three yellow wires to be A, B, and C, you'll need to perform this test on the pairs A-B, A-C, and B-C. Good luck.

Posted on Nov 10, 2008

  • 2336 Answers

SOURCE: Dead Alternator?

Those voltage numbers are horrible. Just sitting on your workbench, the battery should read at least 12.8 volts. And without the gear turned on, the voltage at idle should be above 14 volts. I have a hunch you're going to find the voltage regulator and/or bad connections in the brown coupler are the culprit, but I suppose it wouldn't hurt to check the alternator. Unplug the brown coupler, set your meter to read AC volts and probe any two of the yellow wires in the harness side of the coupler. Rev the engine to 4000 rpm and you should see at least 60 volts AC. If you consider the three yellow wires to be A, B, and C, you'll need to perform this test on the pairs A-B, A-C, and B-C. Good luck.

Posted on Nov 10, 2008

  • 2336 Answers

SOURCE: Dead Alternator?

Those voltage numbers are horrible. Just sitting on your workbench, the battery should read at least 12.8 volts. And without the gear turned on, the voltage at idle should be above 14 volts. I have a hunch you're going to find the voltage regulator and/or bad connections in the brown coupler are the culprit, but I suppose it wouldn't hurt to check the alternator. Unplug the brown coupler, set your meter to read AC volts and probe any two of the yellow wires in the harness side of the coupler. Rev the engine to 4000 rpm and you should see at least 60 volts AC. If you consider the three yellow wires to be A, B, and C, you'll need to perform this test on the pairs A-B, A-C, and B-C. Good luck.

Posted on Nov 10, 2008

  • 101 Answers

SOURCE: Front sprocket

Hi ........... One tooth less will give you more top speed (if you can pull top revs) but will reduce accelleration. If you go for one tooth less you'll need to tighten the chain and/or remove a link. It's a trade off ............ decide what you want the bike to do.

Posted on Dec 24, 2008

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Ybr125 07 rev counter erratic engine stalls occasionally


Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery, should have 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a load test if necessary.
2. Failed alternator/generator and or voltage regulator.
3. Loose or corroded battery terminals and or cables especially the "NEGATIVE" cable, look for loose, corroded, or broken connectors inside the cable harness at "BOTH" ends.
4. Failed main circuit breaker or ignition switch, check for loose connections and continuity.
5. Failed system and or ignition relay, check for continuity.
6. Failed ignition coil, ignition/electronic module.
7. Failed CKP, CPS, CMP, MAP, TPS, or BAS sensor, corroded, loose or broken wire connector pins/sockets.
8. Throttle cables and or idle speed improperly adjusted hot idle speed should be 950 RPM to 1000 RPM.
9. Air/fuel mixture screw improperly adjusted.
10. Accelerator pump damaged or not working.
11. Water or dirt in the fuel system, carburetor or filter.
12. Restricted, blocked or kinked fuel line.
13. Fuel tank empty.
14. The gas cap is not venting properly or fuel tank venting system blocked.
15. Vacuum line from intake manifold to petcock broken, cracked, or not attached, carburetor vent line plugged.
16. Needle and seat stuck closed in the float bowl.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
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89 Yamaha virago 750 while riding lights go dim and engine cuts out unless bike is revved up then engine runs and light come back (sometimes) what's the problem?


You have a charging fault, it sounds like 1 phase of your alternator is down , so giving a low charge rate check in this order.
alternator winding resistance at the plug/ skt into the regulator and,or reg/ rectifier unit
the plugs clean and connections good.
next the out put voltage which should be about 13-14 volts just above idle, lights off, rev engine up to 2-3 thousand revs voltage should be 14.5volts,turn on the lights voltage should not drop to under 13 volts with the engine above 2k rpm.
low charging rates are normally down to alternator and wiring issues not the regulator which if faulty wil give no out put , so no chage at all

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1 Answer

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Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery, should have 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a load test if necessary.
2. Failed alternator/generator and or voltage regulator.
3. Loose or corroded battery terminals and or cables especially the "NEGATIVE" cable, look for loose, corroded, or broken connectors inside the cable harness at "BOTH" ends.
4. Failed main circuit breaker or ignition switch, check for loose connections and continuity.
5. Failed system and or ignition relay, check for continuity.
6. Failed ignition coil, ignition/electronic module.
7. Failed CKP, CPS, CMP, MAP, TPS, or BAS sensor, corroded, loose or broken wire connector pins/sockets.
8. Throttle cables and or idle speed improperly adjusted hot idle speed should be 950 RPM to 1000 RPM.
9. Fuel tank empty
10. Water or dirt in the fuel system, or clogged filter.
11. Restricted, blocked or kinked fuel line.
12. Failed fuel pump.
13. Failed pressure regulator.
14. Faulty or clogged fuel injectors.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
https://yamahaclub.com/forums/topic/23502-ybr-125-queries
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Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Spark plugs in bad condition or have an improper gap or are partially fouled.
2. Spark plug cables in bad condition.
3. Battery damaged or nearly discharged, should have 12.5 volts.
4. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
5. Throttle controls not adjusted correctly.
6. Water or dirt in the fuel system.
7. Water or dirt in the carburetor.
8. Faulty fuel pump.
9. Intake air leak.
10. Fuel tank vent hose and vapor valve plugged, or fuel line closed off, restricting fuel flow.
11. Enricher valve inoperative.
12. Engine lubricant to heavy (winter operation).
13. Ignition is not functioning properly (possible sensor failure).
14. Faulty ignition coil.
15. Valves sticking.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please visit the websites below. Good luck and have a nice day.
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https://yamahaclub.com/forums/topic/22523-ybr-125-starting-problems
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1 Answer

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