Rear break dragging and odd chalky fluit on the caliper and rim

Replace the rear brake hose/s. They deteriorate on the inside and clog up. Not letting the calipers or cylinders to release. I recommend replacing the front and rear.

they could be binding on also get the breakes checked see how much frivtion material is left on them incase the calipers are at the maxamum they can go jack the car up when its been running and spin the rear wheels to see if there draging if so check hand break ajustment and rear shoes for same as front if all this is ok then move onto master cylinder if this is starting to go this can make the pedal feel hard also get the servo unit on the front of master cylinder checked as this is where the power comes from to make the car stop check hoses and pipes for leaks or cracked pipes hope this helps ivan

Rear brake pads last about 70,000 miles,that is 5 years or more !!!

Turn the parking brake in,turn the caliper piston in first,then compress piston.

Ratchet park brake up ,after back together and system bleed (all 4 corners)

draging brakes caused by restricted brake lines or hoses, faulty master cylinder,seizing brake calipers.parking brakes out of adjustment.in most cases faulty wheel speed sensors.will cause abs unit lock the brakes.

Mini cooper rear calipers pistons must be rotated as they are compressed. As you look at the face of the piston, it is rotated clockwise.

You have disk brakes all around?

If I am correct that truck has rear drum breaks? If this is the case the adjusters sound as if they were not brought in enough for proper clearance between the drums and shoes. If this is it I'd remove the rear drums and adjust for proper clearance (there should be no drag with drum breaks. If they are disk breaks I'd say the calipers are stuck and keeping tight on the discs; if this is the case I'd replace that calipers with new or rebuilt units.
I hope this may have helped,
Tom

It sounds like the rear calipers are bad. Raise the rear wheels and see if you can turn the tires. If you can't, open the bleeder. If you still can't replace the caliper. If you can turn the wheel after you open the bleeder, replace the brake hose to that wheel.

i would check front and rear brakes if rears are drum brakes i would inspect springs and hardware making sure everthing is conected and in place also make sure they are adjusted properly in the front and if rear disc i would make sure to grease caliper slides these allow caliper to move and its important that all moving brake parts are free push caliper pistons in alittle to see if they are sized or not booster is ok and most of the time when master goes it will leak where it meets booster and you will have a low brake pedal or no brakes

Just did my rear brakes this weekend, Monday had a very slight drag. Noted that when I installed new pads I had to tap them on. That shouldn't be. When brakes are released, there should be enough play to allow the pads to back off the disc. Tonight, I removed the pads and filed down the ends of the tips that go into the top and bottom channels until I could install and remove them with fingertips, that gives them enough play to grab and release. Drag disappeared; the old girl ran like she should.