Question about 2007 Harley Davidson FLHX Street Glide

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Where is the compensator sprocket on a 2007 street glide

Posted by Anonymous on


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Hi Anonymous, behind the primary cover bolted to the engine crankshaft. Have nice day.

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at

Posted on Jun 08, 2015


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Hi there,
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: 2007 street glide misses and wonts to stall out when taking off??

my roadking just did the same thing, check the gasket between carb and intake

Posted on Aug 10, 2009

  • 26 Answers

SOURCE: color function breakdown

Unfortunatey the same color in one of the subharnesses does not always have the same function in another. Your best bet is to get a copy of the complete diagrams for your bike. I bought the factory repair manual and electrical repair manuals for my Ultra from HD. The wiring diagrams are foldouts and there are eleven of them to cover the complete system.

Posted on Aug 29, 2009

  • 109 Answers

SOURCE: 2007 street glide in need of help(dealers say no problem)

What's your miles between changes?1500 to 2500 miles 1 qt. aint bad.Are you injected?do computer thing for ign/timing and air/fuel settings.If you're carb do jet cleaning and check float bowl setting.Check that float isn't leaking[full of fuel].Check plugs for good color and look for black residue in rear pipe,signs of bad air/fuel mixture and bad burning plug[coil voltage].If your carb doesn't have float check setting of rod that operates the fuel diaphragm.Do computer check for ign timing.Yea, if the plugs are oil fouled then forget what I said bout oil consumption.Baby it till winter and get top end done.Don't worry,2007 is too new for a top end.General tune-up should fix you up.New coils maybe.

Posted on Mar 28, 2010

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: I have a 2007 street glide that dies at idle when

Have the computer re-mapped. I have the same bike with a stage 1 upgrade. The race tuner was bad. Dealer removed it, remapped the stock computer with the stage 1 settings and all has been well since.

Posted on Jul 09, 2010

  • 4565 Answers

SOURCE: how do you replace the

Remove any saddlebags or anything that's in the way of accessing the brake caliper. Remove the two bolts that hold the caliper into the caliper bracket. Lift the caliper off of the bracket.

Note the way the pads and the anti-rattle stuff is installed into the caliper bracket. Remove the old parts and install the new parts.

Now, the piston has to be seated all the way back into the caliper. I used either a large C-clamp or a large pair of slip joint pliers to compress the piston back into the caliper. Use a couple pieces of thin wood or rags to protect the paint and finish on the caliper. Once the piston is all the way back into the caliper, carefully replace the caliper in the bracket without disturbing the pads. Replace the bolts and torque them to 25 foot pounds of torque.

Slowly pump the rear brake pedal until you have a full firm brake pedal. Test the brakes before you ride the bike. Failure to insure proper operation of the brake could result in serious injury or death.

Good Luck

Posted on Oct 12, 2010

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Hi Anonymous, for more information about your question please visit the website below. Good luck and have nice day.
2007 Harley Davidson FLHX Street Glide

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at

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Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at

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Have noise in front of primary only with passenger on bike in second gear knocking clattering sound from

Sound like a loose Compensator nut.

The compensator nut is the part (the nut) that attaches the front sprocket to the motor crank.

When a cylinder of a v-twin fires there is a very strong power pulse. To keep from shaking the bike and rider apart these pulses have to be "smoothed" out. Harley does this by NOT solidly attaching the front sprocket to the engine - they use a "compensating sprocket".

A crank shaft extension, double sprocket, sliding cam, and a stiff spring together form a "compensating sprocket". When a cylinder fires, the power stroke is smoothed out by the action of the compensator cam and springs.

The compensator nut is what holds the compensating sprocket assembly on the crank.

There are a LOT of forces acting on this nut and sometimes the nut loosens up. A loose compensator nut results in a compensating sprocket that can move laterally on the crank. A loose compensator nut therefore is one potential source of engine vibration.

Harley-Davidson issued service bulletin a while back that changed the procedure for tightening the compensator nut, after a spate of bikes had problems with this nut working loose.

Check with your local Dealer to get the correct torque spec and procedure for your year bike.

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