Question about 2007 Harley Davidson FLHX Street Glide
Posted by Anonymous on
Hi Anonymous, behind the primary cover bolted to the engine crankshaft. Have nice day.
Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e
Posted on Jun 08, 2015
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: color function breakdown
Unfortunatey the same color in one of the subharnesses does not always have the same function in another. Your best bet is to get a copy of the complete diagrams for your bike. I bought the factory repair manual and electrical repair manuals for my Ultra from HD. The wiring diagrams are foldouts and there are eleven of them to cover the complete system.
Posted on Aug 29, 2009
What's your miles between changes?1500 to 2500 miles 1 qt. aint bad.Are you injected?do computer thing for ign/timing and air/fuel settings.If you're carb do jet cleaning and check float bowl setting.Check that float isn't leaking[full of fuel].Check plugs for good color and look for black residue in rear pipe,signs of bad air/fuel mixture and bad burning plug[coil voltage].If your carb doesn't have float check setting of rod that operates the fuel diaphragm.Do computer check for ign timing.Yea, if the plugs are oil fouled then forget what I said bout oil consumption.Baby it till winter and get top end done.Don't worry,2007 is too new for a top end.General tune-up should fix you up.New coils maybe.
Posted on Mar 28, 2010
Have the computer re-mapped. I have the same bike with a stage 1 upgrade. The race tuner was bad. Dealer removed it, remapped the stock computer with the stage 1 settings and all has been well since.
Posted on Jul 09, 2010
SOURCE: how do you replace the
Remove any saddlebags or anything that's in the way of accessing the brake caliper. Remove the two bolts that hold the caliper into the caliper bracket. Lift the caliper off of the bracket.
Note the way the pads and the anti-rattle stuff is installed into the caliper bracket. Remove the old parts and install the new parts.
Now, the piston has to be seated all the way back into the caliper. I used either a large C-clamp or a large pair of slip joint pliers to compress the piston back into the caliper. Use a couple pieces of thin wood or rags to protect the paint and finish on the caliper. Once the piston is all the way back into the caliper, carefully replace the caliper in the bracket without disturbing the pads. Replace the bolts and torque them to 25 foot pounds of torque.
Slowly pump the rear brake pedal until you have a full firm brake pedal. Test the brakes before you ride the bike. Failure to insure proper operation of the brake could result in serious injury or death.
Posted on Oct 12, 2010
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