Question about Victory V92 Cruiser Motorcycles

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How to adjust the clutch on my 2000 victory v92c

Which way to adjust the screws. now my clutch handle is almost all of the way out before it catches.

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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joboo1
  • 257 Answers

SOURCE: 2001 Victory V92C Transmition skipping

Hi, Sounds the clutch assembly rather than the tranny, but it could be in the backlash gears. There have been several recalls on this bike and this was one of the issues. Make sure the recall issues have been addressed. I would take this bike to a dealer for a through inspection and have them give you in writing what is wrong with it. Good Luck!

Posted on Feb 13, 2009

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fastboyz
  • 674 Answers

SOURCE: 2000 Victory V92C

yes there has been some problems . the newer victory bikes 2004 or newer have been a very good bike.
i cant see buying this bike unless the price is very low.
loan value on this bike is $3200 i wouldnt buy this bike unless you could get it for $2800 or less
good luck

Posted on Jan 29, 2009

  • 34 Answers

SOURCE: 1999 Victory v92c - is the air filter located

Yes you are correct, twice. Be easy and maybe an extra set of hands when taking the tank off. I always buy a service manual when I purchase a new project. I would suggest doing the same. It just gives you good idea's about the what and where. The one for the Victory V92 isn't so great for the how just basic pictures and some details. Try going to M&M leather and custom cycle's web site and look at the parts fische for a free view under your tank. When you begin to lift the tank off take care with the fuel connection. That plastic fitting is 10yrs old and likely prone to snapping if pulled on the wrong way. It has a push tab on it that is silver. Push and lightly grasp the fitting pulling them apart as straight as possible. The one just under the seat is even more brittle so be carefull. It is a $40.00 tee that will break easily. Done it.

Posted on Jul 11, 2009

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: i own a 2001 victory v92c. do i check the oil with

the bike needs to be standing up straight. if you check the oil w/ the bike on the stand it will show that the oil is low and you will tend to over fill. it is better to be a little low verses overfull. If the bike is overfilled it could damage the seals, rings or valves.

Posted on Feb 18, 2010

  • 10 Answers

SOURCE: My 2001 Victory V92C Cruiser has the check engine

Check the plug on the lower left frame. It's mounted in such a way the it can get water down in the connection after washing.

It could have condensation built-up, You might want to unplug and spray with WD 40.

Posted on Sep 14, 2010

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1 Answer

I have to let my clutch handle all the way out before it catches.I installed new clutch and pressure plates, and adjusted it according to the manual, but same problem


You haven't adjusted it correctly. You must adjust the clutch in the exact sequence that the manual tells you to. A lot of people don't like the idea of having to loosen the clutch cable but it has to be done. Find the cable adjuster and loosen the lock nut. Turn the adjuster barrel inwards and get a LOT of slack in the cable. Then, remove the derby cover. You'll see the clutch assembly with the adjuster screw and locknut in the center. Loosen the locknut and turn the screw outwards until it's loose. Turn it back inwards until you feel a resistance. Do not force the screw and you may have to turn it back out and then back in several times until you get the feel of what you're doing. Once you feel the resistance, back the screw back out 1/2 turn and lock the lock nut down. Replace the derby cover. Then adjust the cable adjuster barrel back out until you have about an 1/8" free play in the cable. This should adjust your clutch to a more acceptable engagement point. Since your clutch discs are new, be prepared to adjust your clutch several more times as the plates "seat in".

Good Luck
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Adjust clutch cable and "lifting mechanism",,, Loosen locknut on the adjuster SCREW ( gain access by removing the "plug" loctaed the furtherest to rear on left hand side of crank case, looks like a "cap" with a slot in it) and rotate screw IN untile you feel it lightly touch end of pushrod....now turn screw OUT 1/4 to 1/2 turn , then tighten the lock nut...... then use two wrenches to loosen the locking nuts on clutch cable, adjust so there is 4mm / 0.16 inches of free play when you slightly pull the clutch lever ..the measurement is placed at the gap of clutch handle and lever base where you see the cable attached into the handle....tis slight free play is to make sure the clutch is not "tight" engaged all the time.....when you lightly pull on lever watch the adjusting lock screw it will slightly rise...if you can not see it then place one finger on it as you pull lever. ck out pg 20 of manual at http://tinyurl.com/2cua6ak for clutch adjust, and pg 58 for cam chain adjust, and pg 78 to see blowup pic of clutch and adjuster

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Remove the inner pannel. Then move the handle the connecting rod from the handle to the lock will move.Then pull or push the connecting rod helping the handle. When you get it open move the handle again if it moves freely then most likely the catch needs adjusting to adjust loosen the screws aroung the catch on the rear pannel move the catch out a little try closing the tailgate if it takes undue force to close then repeat moving the catch out until it is easy to shut simple rule is if it is hard to close then it will be hard to open! Leave the inner pannel off until you can easily open the tailgate with the handle as you may have to give the handle a helping hand to open until you have finished adjusting.

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How do you adjust the clutch. Mine doesn't completely disengage when I shift gears. Too much play in the clutch handle.


You need to adjust the clutch cable adjustment for the clutch handle, THEN adjust the clutch itself.

1.First go to the clutch cable. Halfway down the cable is a rubber boot. Pull the rubber boot up the cable, (Or down. Pull it. Do NOT push), until it clears the adjustment. (The adjustment is a hex shaped piece, that is made of two parts. It's called a Barrel)
Use a 9/16 inch open end wrench, and a 1/2 inch open end wrench. Loosen the lock nut until you have around 1/16th to 1/8th of an inch clearance, of slack in the handle.
(Where the clutch lever, touches the clutch lever mount on the handlebars)

2.Now open the derby cover.
(The round cover on the back of your primary cover. Not to insult your intelligence. This -> https://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/product_catalog/Product.jsp?skuId=02649&store=&catId=&productId=p02649&leafCatId=&mmyId=
<-shows a custom primary inner, and outer cover. The derby cover is the round cover all the way to the right, on this custom primary cover. You can click on the photo to enlarge)

You will then see a single threaded stud, (Adjuster screw), in the middle of the clutch pressure plate.
This adjuster screw has a nut on it, to lock the screw from turning. (Jam nut)
Hold the stud end,(adjuster screw). from turning with a large flat tip screwdriver,
(May have changed to a small square end, that you use an open end wrench on), loosen the jam nut with an open end wrench.

Turn the adjuster screw in, until there is 1/8th inch slack of the clutch lever, to the clutch lever mount.
(The clutch lever mount is the part that attaches to the handlebars. The clutch lever is the part you squeeze in with your hand. The slack is the small space in-between the clutch lever, where it touches the clutch lever mount)

Now turn the adjuster screw out 1/2 turn. Tighten the jam nut. (Make sure you hold the adjuster screw in that place you set, as you tighten the jam nut. DON'T let the adjuster screw turn as you tighten the jam nut!)

3.Now tighten the lock nut, (Jam nut), on the adjustment barrel for the clutch cable. You should grease the threads of this adjustment barrel to prevent corrosion in the future. Pull the rubber boot back into place.

4.Replace the derby cover gasket as these will leak like a sieve. Replacing this gasket is cheap insurance. Install the derby cover, tighten the derby cover screws evenly. (Go to one screw, tighten until it touches. Then go to another screw, and do the same. After all three are touching, snug them down one turn at a time, going from screw to screw)

This is a thin cover. If you don't tighten the screws evenly, you can cause this thin cover to warp, and be the cause of a constant annoying oil drip.

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1 Answer

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Hi I understood the correct adjustment for the clutch is as follows-slacken off the adjustment at the handle bars first then remove the plastic plug slacken the locknut and screw the screw in until contact is made then back off the screw 1/8 of a turn (what the ccm handbook says) the rotax engine manual says 3/4 of a turn but I think that is excessive. Then using the box spanner supplied in the ccm toolkit, carefully tighten the locknut ensuring the screw does not move with a screw driver. Re-adjust at the handlebar(2-3mm of slack). Also ensure there is the correct amount of oil, I checked mine cold after an oil change and I had way too much causing the clutch to drag when warming up. The clutch will tend to slip if the adjustment screw is in too far and there is no free play at the lever. Steve.,,,

Nov 10, 2008 | 2003 CCM 604 DS Dual Sport

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