Question about 1996 kawasaki VN 1500 Vulcan Classic

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Trcan not get my front brakes to bleed on 96 vulcan 1500 classic

Tryed bleeding brakes fluid comes out of bleeder but no pressuer. will not bleed up.

Posted by Anonymous on

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 2336 Answers

SOURCE: bleeding front brakes

Bleed the master first, make sure that there is plenty of fluid going through there and all the air is out. Then, once the master is fully bled, the fluid will pull through the lines quickly. Just do one line at a time, and once you do them both and get good pressure you want to zip tie the lever to the bar overnight to make sure you get all the little bubbles out. Hope that helps.

Posted on Nov 10, 2008

  • 2336 Answers

SOURCE: remove a gas tank

there are 2 bolts at the front of the seat, takeoff the seat, unsrew the bolts. that is the only thing holding it on. push the tank forward a bit, then lift up. there are breather tubes under the tank. be careful, they are difficult to get back on depending on the length. there are 2 bolts at the front of the seat, takeoff the seat, unsrew the bolts. that is the only thing holding it on. push the tank forward a bit, then lift up. there are breather tubes under the tank. be careful, they are difficult to get back on depending on the length.

Posted on Nov 10, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: bleeding front brakes

Your $7 bleeder kit typically has a near useless one valve in it. Forget the kits such as these, they usually make things confusing for you.
Firts, make sure all teh brake lines are tightly connected and in good condition. If the flexible lines are over 5 years old, conside getting new ones made/fitted. Stainless/braided lines look good but are NOT necessary for any road bike.

All you need is a long piece of clear hose line (fish tank air line tubing usually works well) that fits the top of the bleed nipples very firmly. The hose should be long enough to hang over your handle bars, or be suspended by a wire or string so that the open end is higher than the master cylinder. You can use two such hoses and do both front calipers at the same time if you wish.

First, manouver the handle bars so that the top of the master cylinder is as level as possible, even to the point of undoing the grip clamp and rotating the whole assembly around the handle bars a bit. Then fit the clear hoses to the caliper bleed nipples.
Remove the top of the master cylinder reseviour and make sure the fluid is topped up. Watch this level the whole time, it is important that the fluid level never get below half full or you risk reintroducing air into the brake lines again. Never reuse old fluid, and always filter any new fluid that has been in the brake system before (run it through a new fuel filter if you are that hard up for money) you reuse it.
Then crack open the bleed nipples on the calipers so that you see fluid start to rise up the hoses ( which is why you want clear hoses). You can pump the lever a few times to get things happening quicker, just watch the master fluid level!
Keep pumping the lever and topping up the fluid level until the level in the tubes is at the same level as the master cylinder. Leave the bleeder nipples open and leave the bike alone for an hour.
After an hour, close the bleeder nipples and top up and refit the master cylinder reserviour cover.
Use a jar under each hose to catch the fluid, remove each hose from its bleeder and let the fluid drain out into the jar. Ditch the used fluid.
Reset the grip to its proper position if it was moved and test the brakes. Pump the lever two times and then release the lever for a few minutes ( at least 1 minute) If the brakes are still soft or wont hold pressure ( if you still have to pump the lever to get pressure, dont ride the bike!) then suspect worn master cylinder or buggered seals.

Posted on Jan 17, 2009

  • 3 Answers

SOURCE: just replaced clutch spring on '01 vulcan 1500

assuming it was reinstalled properly....try the following. while bleeding the system, squeeze the clutch lever several times to pump up the system as normal; open the bleed screw while holding the clutch lever in and air or fluid comes out. instead of closing the bleed screw hold your finger over the bleed screw and pump up the clutch lever in the normal fashon and bleed by releasing your finger to let the air escape try this several times to see if your clutch comes back. I don't know why but this technique works sometimes...Mike...Make sure you always have plenty of fluid in the resivoir at all times

Posted on Mar 31, 2009

sivaranjini
  • 241 Answers

SOURCE: how to change oil on a 2002 Kawasaki Vulcan

It makes a great desktop image.
2002-kawasaki-vulcan1500classicfia-small.jpg
2002 Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 Classic Fi
2002-kawasaki-vulcan1500classicfib-small.jpg
2002 Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 Classic Fi

• 2002 Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 Classic Fi
.
What immediately distinguishes the Kawasaki Vulcan™ 1500 Classic Fi cruiser from the rest of the well-populated class is that it has the look, feel and sound of a mid-1950s motorcycle. But Kawasaki matches the "look" with a digitally controlled fuel-injection system and high-tech features that result in modern performance. Indeed, response to the Vulcan 1500 Classic Fi was so positive that upon its introduction, Motorcycle Tour & Cruiser magazine dubbed the bike "Cruiser of the Year."
The big 90 cubic-inch V-twin engine in the Classic Fi pumps out plenty of torque and power with high-compression pistons and cam timing taken from the original Vulcan 1500. A Mitsubishi digital fuel-injection system feeds each cylinder a high-octane fuel mixture through twin 36mm throttle bodies. A separate intake tract for each throttle body provides smooth engine operation. The tip of each injector contains four nozzles, with two of those aimed at each intake valve.
Two different systems automatically and accurately control the amount of fuel injected into the cylinders. A 16-bit electronic control unit (ECU) uses readings from sensors that monitor engine coolant temperature, intake air temperature, atmospheric pressure, intake air pressure and throttle position to adjust the amount of fuel injected. The overall result is excellent engine response and power with increased fuel efficiency. The ECU also has a special pin that allows technicians to check the fuel-injection system if needed.
There are four valves per cylinder actuated by single overhead cams. Two valve springs are used on all valves to help ensure tight valve closure, while hydraulic valve lash adjusters automatically maintain valve clearance for smooth engine performance, reduced noise and no maintenance. Automatic cam chain tensioners keep cam timing accurate and provide greater reliability with no upkeep. The right-side crankcase and clutch cover are designed to make it easy to check the engine’s oil level and to perform regularly scheduled maintenance.
The engine produces 85 foot-pounds of torque at 2,500 rpm so that a crack of the throttle punches out smooth acceleration. A gear-driven engine counterbalancer and rubber engine mounts reduce handlebar and floorboard vibration, yet the engine retains its distinctive V-twin rumble.
A long, low-slung chassis provides the classic cruiser look. The Classic Fi’s floorboards are positioned to put the rider in an upright and comfortable position. Also, the brake pedal is designed to make it easier to apply the dual-piston-caliper-equipped brake. Other conveniences include wide, five-way adjustable brake and clutch levers for added rider comfort and self-canceling turn signals for easier use.
An electronic speedometer eliminates the traditional wheel-driven mechanism and its speedometer cable for a cleaner look. The speedometer face atop the five-gallon gas tank features an LED display for the odometer and tripmeter, as well as a clock.
Because customizing is integral to the whole cruiser experience, Kawasaki offers a full line of FIRE & STEEL™ accessories for the Classic Fi. Among the choices are numerous chrome pieces, leather bags and trim, backrests, lights, racks and windshields.
With its exceptional performance, nostalgic looks and high-tech enhancements, the Vulcan 1500 Classic Fi is just the ticket for the high-minded cruiser enthusiast.




Kawasaki Vulcan® Cruisers

By introducing the KZ900 LTD in 1976, Kawasaki was an early metric leader in what has become today’s cruiser movement. When the Vulcan® 750 cruiser debuted 10 years later, it was Kawasaki’s first V-twin-powered cruiser and featured high-tech items such as liquid cooling, double overhead cams, shaft drive, dual disc front brakes and mag wheels. In 1995, Kawasaki unveiled the Vulcan™ 800, one of the industry’s first V-twin metric cruisers to feature modern cruiser styling.
For 2002, the Kawasaki cruiser lineup is 10 models strong and ranges from the entry-level Eliminator® 125 to the brand-new Vulcan 1500 Mean Streak. The venerable Vulcan 500 LTD, Vulcan 750 and Vulcan 800 models retain the stylish characteristics that have made them popular, and are now available in new hues.
Also available this year are the Vulcan Classic and Drifter™ models. The Classics include the 800, 1500 and 1500 Fi, and provide a choice in both displacement and technological advancement without sacrificing style. Similarly, the Drifter 800 and Drifter 1500 provide a stylish retro appearance, but in both the mid- and heavyweight-cruiser genres.
In addition to the bikes, a key element to the cruiser lifestyle is customizing the motorcycle to fit individual design tastes and performance needs. Fortunately, Kawasaki offers its own extensive line of genuine Fire & Steel™ accessories. Motorcyclists can choose from literally hundreds of parts to customize their Kawasaki Vulcan motorcycles, and in doing so, make their own bold statement. Customers can find Fire & Steel accessories at their local Kawasaki dealer or shop online at buykawasaki.com.

Posted on Jun 22, 2009

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1 Answer

1998 kawasaki 1500 vulcan slave clutch bleeder valve


The clutch bleeder is behind the left engine cover, you will have to remove the left exhaust from the head and also the left front foot peg in order to get it off should be about 5 bolts holding engine cover on dont worry its just a cover no oil leakage from that side, then it will be down just above the frame, it will have clutch hose going to it.. to Bleed it remove cap on leftside handle bar make sure fluid level is 3/4 fulll hold clutch lever in then open valve, let air out then close valve release clutch lever, should fix if not repeat bleeding until you have good pressure on clutch lever, dont let fluild get to low . once pressure is good refill and put cap back on. put bike back togather and RIDE good luck

Sep 30, 2012 | 1996 kawasaki VN 1500 Vulcan Classic

1 Answer

I bought a 1996 vulcan classic 1500cc and its been sitting for over a year and I put a new battery in it changed the gas and oil and got it running and everything is fine but the hydralic clutch has no...


try this link http://www.motorcyclistonline.com/howto/122_0306_hydraulic_clutch_service/index.html read this fully if you are not accustom to bleeding procedures. do buy a new can of brake fluid . you can also try gravity bleeding which should work. With this procedure DO NOT operate the clutch lever while bleeding.To do this )1 - remove all fluid from the fluid reservoir. 2) Fill with fresh fluid and replace the cap LOOSELY, you just want to cover the reservoir from any contaminants but loose enough to allow air to enter. 3) find the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder and open slightly, enough to get a drip of fluid. catch the fluid as any spilt can be corrosive. 4) let the fluid drip continually and be sure to watch the fluid level in the reservoir, keep filling as level gets low. Don't allow the res to go empty as you will draw air into the system again. Any pause in the drip is when air is leaving the system. 5) once a steady drip is acheived and the fluid looks clean tighten the bleeder screw and make sure the reservoir level is full, tighten the res. cap. Give the clutch a try. you should feel the normal resistance .

May 15, 2011 | 1996 kawasaki VN 1500 Vulcan Classic

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After putting on new calipers on both sides of my dodge ram 2005 1500 and bled brakes I have no brakes. What is the problem they worked fine until I did the caliper and brake


Did you bleed rear brakes also? Should do all 4 whenever bleeding brakes starting w/ right rear, left rear, right front then left front. Sounds like air in lines.

Mar 22, 2011 | 2005 Dodge Ram 1500

1 Answer

2000 Chev Silverado 2500, Brake lines rusted and cracked loosing all fluid. replaced all lines. Got front to bleed sucessfully, but no oil to back brakes. what do I have to do to bleed back brakes?


Try opening a front bleeder and depress the pedal ALL the way,should feel a light "tic" as it reaches the bottom,close the bleeder and try to bleed the rear again,but instead of pumping ,just take the master cover off ,open the rear bleeders and wait 10 min or so for the fluid to gravity bleed out the air. Thinking the proportioning valve is tripped so no fluid is allowed to reach the rear,opening the front should reset the valve . If there is alot of air the valve will just trip again if you pump the pedal,hence the gravity bleed.

Mar 09, 2011 | 2000 Chevrolet Silverado 1500

1 Answer

I hve a 96 chevy 1500 4wd with brake issues. ABS light is on in the dash. Have replaced both frt calipers, pads, hoses. Replaced rear brakes and drums. Replaced master cylinder. Bled two quarts of...


you may have air trapped in the ABS EHCU. Did you use this procedure?

Bleeding the EHCU

Bleeding the EHCU requires the use of the TECH-1 scanner or its equivalent and the appropriate cartridge. Additionally, 3 tools, J-39177 or equivalent, are required. Bleeding cannot be performed without this equipment.
The EHCU must be bled after replacement or if air is trapped within the unit. It must be bled after bleeding the master cylinder and before bleeding the individual wheel circuits.
The Internal Bleed Valves on either side of the unit must be opened 1 / 4 - 1 / 2 turn before bleeding begins. These valves open internal passages within the unit. Actual bleeding is performed at the two bleeders on the front of the EHCU module. The bleeders must not be opened when the system is not pressurized. The ignition switch must be OFF or false trouble codes may be set.
  1. Open the internal bleed valve 1 / 4 - 1 / 2 turn each.
  2. Install one tool J-39177 on the left bleed stem of the EHCU. Install one tool on the right bleed stem and install the third tool on the combination valve.
  3. Inspect the fluid level in the master cylinder, filling if needed.
  4. Slowly depress the brake pedal and hold it down.
  5. Open the left bleeder on the front of the unit. Allow fluid to flow until no air is seen or until the brake pedal bottoms.
  6. Close the left bleeder, then slowly release the pedal. Wait 15 seconds.
  7. Repeat Steps 4, 5 and 6, including the 15 second wait, until no air is seen in the fluid.
  8. Tighten the left internal bleed valve to 5 ft. lbs. (7 Nm).
  9. Repeat Steps 3-7 at the right bleeder on the front of the unit.
  10. When bleeding of the right port is complete, tighten the right internal bleed valve to 5 ft. lbs. (7 Nm).
  11. Remove the 3 special tools.
  12. Check the master cylinder fluid level, refilling as necessary.
  13. Bleed the individual brake circuits at each wheel.
  14. Switch the ignition ON . Use the hand scanner to perform 3 function tests on the system.
  15. Carefully test drive the vehicle at moderate speeds; check for proper pedal feel and brake operation. If any problem is noted in feel or function, repeat the entire bleeding procedure.

Oct 10, 2010 | Chevrolet 1500 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I have a 1997 Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 A, not the classic. Last week my clutch started losing its tension, I got on the bike the other day and put it in first and it "jumped" forward and shut off! Now I cant...


Your bike has a hydraulic clutch with a master cylinder at the clutch lever. Remove the cap and I think you will see there is little or no fluid in the reservoir. You need to fill it up then bleed the system to remove air in the line. This is done the same a bleeding brakes on a car. If I recall correctly, the bolt that holds the hydraulic hose to the master cylinder acts as a bleeder for the cylinder and there will be a bleeder valve at the other end of the hose to bleed the hose and actuator. Many parts are available at the website below. Please rate my answer. Thanks.
www.babbittsonline.com/pages/parts/viewbybrand/default.aspx


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Aug 13, 2010 | 1997 kawasaki VN 1500 Vulcan Classic

1 Answer

Bleeding clutch


The best success I have bleeding my clutch is to do it in this order.
1- fill reservoir with dot 4
2-loosen bleed screw on slave cylinder and let gravity bleed
3-never let reservoir run out while gravity bleeding
4- when you see steady dripping fron bleeder screw, tighten screw.
5-top off reservoir with fluid and install top back on reservoir
6-loosen bleeder and squeeze clutch all the way in one time and hold it.
7-tighten bleeder before releasing clutch
8-repeat this step one more time
9-remove reservoir top and refill the cylnder
10-put top back on reservoir
11-pump clutch handle 5 times and hold in
12-open bleeder screw
13- repeat this step 3 times
14- you should have a good clutch
15-check fluid in reseervoir one more time to make sure it is still full

Jul 11, 2010 | 1997 kawasaki VN 1500 Vulcan Classic

1 Answer

Where is the bleeder for Vulcan 1500 clutch?


It is under the left engin cover. You have to remove the shifter and the footpeg or floorboard too. Then remove the 4 or 5 allen bolts and the cover will come right off. No oil or anything will leak when this cover is removed. You will see the clutch slave cylinder behind this cover. I found the best way to bleed the clutch is to fill the master and open the slave and let it drip for a while (gravity bleed) Do not let the cylinder at top run low while you are doing this. After a 10 minutes or so, tighten slave then refill cylinder and do the old pump and drain bleed a few times. I found that it works better with the cover installed on the cylinder when pumping to bleed clutch.

May 15, 2010 | 1996 kawasaki VN 1500 Vulcan Classic

4 Answers

Just replaced clutch spring on '01 vulcan 1500 classic fi and used mean streak spring per instructions on gadgets help page, put it all back together. Now the clutch won't engage even after bleeding, what...


assuming it was reinstalled properly....try the following. while bleeding the system, squeeze the clutch lever several times to pump up the system as normal; open the bleed screw while holding the clutch lever in and air or fluid comes out. instead of closing the bleed screw hold your finger over the bleed screw and pump up the clutch lever in the normal fashon and bleed by releasing your finger to let the air escape try this several times to see if your clutch comes back. I don't know why but this technique works sometimes...Mike...Make sure you always have plenty of fluid in the resivoir at all times

Mar 30, 2009 | 2000 kawasaki VN 1500 Vulcan Classic...

1 Answer

Bleeding brakes


No need to run the engine. Start the bleed procedure from the caliper farthest from the master cylinder, and work toward it. This means bleed the passenger rear first, then the driver rear, then passenger front, then driver front. Don't stop bleeding any caliper until you get three or so consecutive streams of air-free fluid through the bleeder. Monitor the level of fluid in the cylinder, and be sure the cap is on while bleeding - only open it to add additional fluid as needed.

Sep 09, 2008 | 1996 Ford Windstar

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