Question about 1996 kawasaki VN 1500 Vulcan Classic
Tried to get my front brakes to bleed on 96 Vulcan 1500 classic tryed bleeding brakes fluid comes out of bleeder but no pressure. will not bleed up. @
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brake bleeding blues Kawasaki Vulcan Forum Vulcan Forums How to bleed your front rear brake calipers on your motorbike motorcycle
Kawasaki VN1500 Service Manual
1996 Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 Classic Owner Manual
Posted on Mar 11, 2018
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: bleeding front brakes
Bleed the master first, make sure that there is plenty of fluid going through there and all the air is out. Then, once the master is fully bled, the fluid will pull through the lines quickly. Just do one line at a time, and once you do them both and get good pressure you want to zip tie the lever to the bar overnight to make sure you get all the little bubbles out. Hope that helps.
Posted on Nov 10, 2008
SOURCE: remove a gas tank
there are 2 bolts at the front of the seat, takeoff the seat, unsrew the bolts. that is the only thing holding it on. push the tank forward a bit, then lift up. there are breather tubes under the tank. be careful, they are difficult to get back on depending on the length. there are 2 bolts at the front of the seat, takeoff the seat, unsrew the bolts. that is the only thing holding it on. push the tank forward a bit, then lift up. there are breather tubes under the tank. be careful, they are difficult to get back on depending on the length.
Posted on Nov 10, 2008
SOURCE: bleeding front brakes
Your $7 bleeder kit typically has a near useless one valve in it. Forget the kits such as these, they usually make things confusing for you.
Firts, make sure all teh brake lines are tightly connected and in good condition. If the flexible lines are over 5 years old, conside getting new ones made/fitted. Stainless/braided lines look good but are NOT necessary for any road bike.
All you need is a long piece of clear hose line (fish tank air line tubing usually works well) that fits the top of the bleed nipples very firmly. The hose should be long enough to hang over your handle bars, or be suspended by a wire or string so that the open end is higher than the master cylinder. You can use two such hoses and do both front calipers at the same time if you wish.
First, manouver the handle bars so that the top of the master cylinder is as level as possible, even to the point of undoing the grip clamp and rotating the whole assembly around the handle bars a bit. Then fit the clear hoses to the caliper bleed nipples.
Remove the top of the master cylinder reseviour and make sure the fluid is topped up. Watch this level the whole time, it is important that the fluid level never get below half full or you risk reintroducing air into the brake lines again. Never reuse old fluid, and always filter any new fluid that has been in the brake system before (run it through a new fuel filter if you are that hard up for money) you reuse it.
Then crack open the bleed nipples on the calipers so that you see fluid start to rise up the hoses ( which is why you want clear hoses). You can pump the lever a few times to get things happening quicker, just watch the master fluid level!
Keep pumping the lever and topping up the fluid level until the level in the tubes is at the same level as the master cylinder. Leave the bleeder nipples open and leave the bike alone for an hour.
After an hour, close the bleeder nipples and top up and refit the master cylinder reserviour cover.
Use a jar under each hose to catch the fluid, remove each hose from its bleeder and let the fluid drain out into the jar. Ditch the used fluid.
Reset the grip to its proper position if it was moved and test the brakes. Pump the lever two times and then release the lever for a few minutes ( at least 1 minute) If the brakes are still soft or wont hold pressure ( if you still have to pump the lever to get pressure, dont ride the bike!) then suspect worn master cylinder or buggered seals.
Posted on Jan 17, 2009
assuming it was reinstalled properly....try the following. while bleeding the system, squeeze the clutch lever several times to pump up the system as normal; open the bleed screw while holding the clutch lever in and air or fluid comes out. instead of closing the bleed screw hold your finger over the bleed screw and pump up the clutch lever in the normal fashon and bleed by releasing your finger to let the air escape try this several times to see if your clutch comes back. I don't know why but this technique works sometimes...Mike...Make sure you always have plenty of fluid in the resivoir at all times
Posted on Mar 31, 2009
It makes a great desktop image.
2002 Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 Classic Fi
2002 Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 Classic Fi
• 2002 Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 Classic Fi
What immediately distinguishes the Kawasaki Vulcan™ 1500 Classic Fi cruiser from the rest of the well-populated class is that it has the look, feel and sound of a mid-1950s motorcycle. But Kawasaki matches the "look" with a digitally controlled fuel-injection system and high-tech features that result in modern performance. Indeed, response to the Vulcan 1500 Classic Fi was so positive that upon its introduction, Motorcycle Tour & Cruiser magazine dubbed the bike "Cruiser of the Year."
The big 90 cubic-inch V-twin engine in the Classic Fi pumps out plenty of torque and power with high-compression pistons and cam timing taken from the original Vulcan 1500. A Mitsubishi digital fuel-injection system feeds each cylinder a high-octane fuel mixture through twin 36mm throttle bodies. A separate intake tract for each throttle body provides smooth engine operation. The tip of each injector contains four nozzles, with two of those aimed at each intake valve.
Two different systems automatically and accurately control the amount of fuel injected into the cylinders. A 16-bit electronic control unit (ECU) uses readings from sensors that monitor engine coolant temperature, intake air temperature, atmospheric pressure, intake air pressure and throttle position to adjust the amount of fuel injected. The overall result is excellent engine response and power with increased fuel efficiency. The ECU also has a special pin that allows technicians to check the fuel-injection system if needed.
There are four valves per cylinder actuated by single overhead cams. Two valve springs are used on all valves to help ensure tight valve closure, while hydraulic valve lash adjusters automatically maintain valve clearance for smooth engine performance, reduced noise and no maintenance. Automatic cam chain tensioners keep cam timing accurate and provide greater reliability with no upkeep. The right-side crankcase and clutch cover are designed to make it easy to check the engine’s oil level and to perform regularly scheduled maintenance.
The engine produces 85 foot-pounds of torque at 2,500 rpm so that a crack of the throttle punches out smooth acceleration. A gear-driven engine counterbalancer and rubber engine mounts reduce handlebar and floorboard vibration, yet the engine retains its distinctive V-twin rumble.
A long, low-slung chassis provides the classic cruiser look. The Classic Fi’s floorboards are positioned to put the rider in an upright and comfortable position. Also, the brake pedal is designed to make it easier to apply the dual-piston-caliper-equipped brake. Other conveniences include wide, five-way adjustable brake and clutch levers for added rider comfort and self-canceling turn signals for easier use.
An electronic speedometer eliminates the traditional wheel-driven mechanism and its speedometer cable for a cleaner look. The speedometer face atop the five-gallon gas tank features an LED display for the odometer and tripmeter, as well as a clock.
Because customizing is integral to the whole cruiser experience, Kawasaki offers a full line of FIRE & STEEL™ accessories for the Classic Fi. Among the choices are numerous chrome pieces, leather bags and trim, backrests, lights, racks and windshields.
With its exceptional performance, nostalgic looks and high-tech enhancements, the Vulcan 1500 Classic Fi is just the ticket for the high-minded cruiser enthusiast.
Kawasaki Vulcan® Cruisers
By introducing the KZ900 LTD in 1976, Kawasaki was an early metric leader in what has become today’s cruiser movement. When the Vulcan® 750 cruiser debuted 10 years later, it was Kawasaki’s first V-twin-powered cruiser and featured high-tech items such as liquid cooling, double overhead cams, shaft drive, dual disc front brakes and mag wheels. In 1995, Kawasaki unveiled the Vulcan™ 800, one of the industry’s first V-twin metric cruisers to feature modern cruiser styling.
For 2002, the Kawasaki cruiser lineup is 10 models strong and ranges from the entry-level Eliminator® 125 to the brand-new Vulcan 1500 Mean Streak. The venerable Vulcan 500 LTD, Vulcan 750 and Vulcan 800 models retain the stylish characteristics that have made them popular, and are now available in new hues.
Also available this year are the Vulcan Classic and Drifter™ models. The Classics include the 800, 1500 and 1500 Fi, and provide a choice in both displacement and technological advancement without sacrificing style. Similarly, the Drifter 800 and Drifter 1500 provide a stylish retro appearance, but in both the mid- and heavyweight-cruiser genres.
In addition to the bikes, a key element to the cruiser lifestyle is customizing the motorcycle to fit individual design tastes and performance needs. Fortunately, Kawasaki offers its own extensive line of genuine Fire & Steel™ accessories. Motorcyclists can choose from literally hundreds of parts to customize their Kawasaki Vulcan motorcycles, and in doing so, make their own bold statement. Customers can find Fire & Steel accessories at their local Kawasaki dealer or shop online at buykawasaki.com.
Posted on Jun 22, 2009
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