Question about 2005 Harley Davidson FXSTD - FXSTDI Softail Deuce
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
No. Remove the caliper mounting bolts, (put a rag under the brake cylinder at the pedal to catch any fluid pushed out by the next step), depress the pads until they will clear the disc, remove the caliper assembly and replace the pads.
Posted on Jun 15, 2009
Get the bike standing as straight up as you can without danger of it falling over. This keeps any oil from running out of the primary. Remove the "derby cover" from the outer primary cover giving you access to the clutch adjuster screw in the center of the clutch pressure plate in the primary.
On the clutch cable, slide the rubber boot up or down to expose the adjuster in the cable. It should be on the down tubes of the frame under the fuel tanks. Loosen the lock nut and screw the cable adjuster in as far as it will go thus shortening the cable.
At the clutch back in the primary cover, you'll see a screw that takes a hex allen wrench with a lock nut on it in the center of the clutch pressure plate. Loosen the lock nut and back it off a bit. Screw the screw inwards until you feel a resistance. You want to adjust this in until you feel a resistance, not to the point to where it starts releasing the clutch. Back the screw back out and do this enough times so that you know you are just going to the point of resistance. Turn the screw inward until you get to the point of resistance and then back the screw out 1/2 to 1 full turn. Lock the nut down.
Now, adjust the clutch cable adjuster out making the cable longer You want to adjust the cable until you have about 1/8 inch freeplay at the clutch lever. Lock the cable lock nut and slide the rubber cover over the adjuster. Test ride the bike. If the clutch does not engage exactly where you want it, use the cable adjuster to fine tune where the clutch engages by lengthing or shortening the cable.
Posted on Oct 24, 2009
You can use an ohm meter to figure it out too. Just take the switch housing halves loose and look at what color wire goes to what switch. No problem.
Other wise you are going to have to find someone with a schematic or purchase a service manual for a late model. Wiring diagrams are difficult to find online. The latest I have is 1994.
Posted on Dec 23, 2009
find the oil drain plug. Look at the bottom of the oil tank from the right side. You'll see a large hose going down behind the transmission and on down to the very bottom of the frame. It connects to a crossmember on the bottom of the frame below the transmission. There is a drain plug that screws in the crossmember from the bottom, Remove the plug to drain the tank.
Remove and replace the oil filter with the correct filter.
Add three quarts of oil to the oil tank after reinstalling the drain plug.
Posted on Sep 22, 2010
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