Question about Harley Davidson Motorcycles
(i'm asking on behalf of a rather flumoxed friend, i don't know anything but if its sounds familiar, i can pass on genuine suggestions) 1992 ish harley davidson fxrs 1340 VOES has been changed downpipes now don't glow at tickover. But now the second you touch the throttle it spits flames runs like a bag of **** and then the downpipes glow. Up to now it has had Carb rebuild Ignition rewired New stator 7 ( yes thats 7) regulator rectifiers New battery New coil New plugs and ht leads New VOES And it still glows downpipes.
Could be running VERY rich causing ignition of the exhaust gases once the second cylinder is on its exhaust cycle. This would cause both flames out of the exhaust as well as the crappy performance. Pull the plugs and see if they're dark.
Clean the plugs
If the plugs look darkened you can use the A\F mixture screw on the carbs to lean out the mixture.
To tune like this.
Find both A\F mixture screws on both carburetors.
Find out which way to spin them to lean the mixture out (for me it was to tighten them).
Using 1\8th turn adjustments do one carb at a time until it runs better\stops backfiring.
Now that it's running decently go for a spin WITH NEW PLUGS, after a good little jaunt let the engine cool and pull the plugs, if they look white you need more fuel, if they look sooty you could need to lean out the mixture 'slightly'.
Posted on Feb 16, 2012
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
There's nothing to replacing the regulator. It simply bolts to the frame. The wires from the regulator to the stator plug into the plug on the lower left front of the engine case. The larger longer wires runs back along the frame and up to the positive post of the battery.
There's a bit more to replacing the stator. To replace the stator, disconnect the battery and drain the primary case. Remove the outer primary cover. You'll have to take the engine compensator sprocket nut off and remove the mainshaft nut that holds the clutch assembly on. To get the clutch assembly off, remove the snap ring in the center of the clutch assembly and remove the clutch adjuster. The mainshaft nut is inside the hole in the center of the clutch assembly. The nut has LEFT HANDED THREADS. Take the nut off the primary chain adjuster and take the engine sprocket, primary chain with adjuster, and the clutch assembly off all together. The rotor is on the engine sprocket shaft. It can be difficult to get off because of the magnets inside of it. The rotor has two holes in it. I use two long bolts and put them just into the holes deep enough to hold the rotor by squeezing the ends together. Pull the rotor off. The stator is held on by four small Torx bolts and it has a wire support that is held on by two small sheet metal screws. When you install the new stator, make sure you use thread locker on the threads and torque the bolts to 40 inch pounds of torque. The sprocket shaft nut torques to 150-165 foot pounds of torque. The clutch mainshaft nut (LEFT HANDED THREADS) torques to 60-80 foot pounds. You'll probably need a locking bar or some way to prevent the engine from turning while you torque the nuts.
Posted on Aug 01, 2011
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PUK code is a SIM specific code assigned by your service provider. No way you can guess & enter it. So, when it asks for the PUK code, don't do anything, get the PUK code from your service provider. If the wrong PUK is entered ten times in a row, the device will become permanently blocked and unrecoverable, requiring a new SIM card. You will be asked to verify your credentials before your service provider gives PUK number.
PUK code is a SIM specific code assigned by your service provider. No way you can guess & enter it. So, when it asks for the PUK code, don't do anything, get the PUK code from your service provider.
If the wrong PUK is entered ten times in a row, the device will become permanently blocked and unrecoverable, requiring a new SIM card.
You will be asked to verify your credentials before your service provider gives PUK number.
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