Question about Factory bike Chrono SM 250 Motorcycles
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Try balancing ans syncronising the carbs.
BALANCE THE CARBS
Turn the throttle screw on the LEFT carb one half turn inward. Now start the engine and get it warmed up. With the engine running, remove the RIGHT spark plug wire. Adjust the idle speed on the left carb to the point where the engine just can't quite stay running and dies. Now put the loose spark plug wire back into place.
Now turn the throttle screw on the RIGHT carb one half turn inward. Restart and rev the engine. Next, remove the LEFT spark plug wire. Adjust the idle speed on the right carb to the point where the engine just can't quite stay running and dies. Now put the loose spark plug wire back into place.
Turn the idle screw on each carb EXACTLY ONE QUARTER turn outward and restart the engine. The engine will be probably be idling very fast. Adjust both the idle screws equally from this point to get to the desired idle speed.
SYNCHRONIZE THE CARBS
Remove the air filter and rubber fittings to allow you to see into the throat of both carbs. You may need a mirror to see inside. You need to be able to see the slides go up and down when you twist the throttle. Now turn the fitting where the cable goes into each carb such that there is just a bit of slack in the cable, 1/16" is plenty. Lock ONE of the cable adjusters down tight. All further adjustments will be made on the other carb.
With the motor turned off twist the throttle very slowly while looking at the slides. Both slides need to begin lifting at the exact same moment. If the slides don't raise at the exact same time then slowly twist the throttle until the locked adjuster slide just barely starts to move. Hold the throttle still and turn the adjuster on the other carb so that the slide on that carb just barely starts to move also. Now recheck the slide movement timing. Do this process until the slides on both carbs begin to raise at the EXACT same moment. Lock down the loose adjuster and re-check the slides.
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Posted on Mar 30, 2009
ALWAYS have a fire extinguisher on hand when working on carburetors.
Open the petcock, (gas valve), and drain 1/2 cup of gas from the tank. Did the fuel flow freely? Is there any water or trash in the cup?
Drain the carburetor. There should be a screw on the lower right side of the carb float bowl. Remove the screw then replace it after the fuel drains. Turn the gas back on and wait a minute for the carb to fill with gas. Install a new stock NGK spark plug and try to start the engine. If the bike doesn't start and run properly then shut off the gas and remove the carburetor from the engine.
Remove the float bowl and clean the entire carb with a spray carb cleaner from the auto parts store. Wear protective goggles to avoid getting spray in your eyes. Spray into all the little airways and fittings in the carb. Check the float height. The fuel level in the bowl may be low. Bend the tang (in the center of the float) downward to raise the fuel level. EASY, a little bend goes along way. Put the carb back together, clean the air filter and install the carb. Let the float bowl fill then start the engine.
Posted on Jul 06, 2009
Sounds like you've got a vacuum leak somewhere. Either your intake seals or the carb seal is leaking air. Have you replaced the air filter housing? On the Evolution and later engines, the carb is designed as a "spigot seal" type carb. In other words, it just pushes into a seal instead of bolting on like the older carbs did. This means that the carb has to be aligned correctly or an air leak can occur around the seal. The air filter assembly is what holds the carb. into the seal and aligns the carb.
If you haven't messed with the air filter assembly there is one other thing that I've seen cause this problem. Your bike has two vacuum operated devices on it. One is the VOES switch and the other is the fuel petcock. The VOES switch is part of th igniton system and the petcock is the fuel valve on the fuel tank. The vacuum comes from either the carb or the intake manifold and is routed to the devices by a vacuum hose. Make sure this hose in connected to all three locations and has no holes in it. The vacuum hose to the petcock is on the backside of the petcock and the VOES is located on the bottom of the frame top tube under the fuel tank near the carb.
I have seen the vacuum operated petcock cause a vacuum leak in at least one occasion. Normally, when they go bad they just shut the fuel off to the carb and the engine won't run. But, I did have one that caused a severe vacuum leak and the bike acted exactly like you're describing. I took the petcock out of the tank. Drain the fuel first, not easy to do with the petcock being vacuum operated. I got a large funnel and held it under the petcock while I slowly unscrewed it. Once you have the petcock out, you'll see four small screws on the back side of it where the vacuum hose connects. Remove the screws and check the diagraphm behind the plate. Be careful, there is a small spring behind the plate. Take the petcock apart carefully so you can remember how to properly reassemble it.
Personally, I would eliminate the vacuum operated petcock and replace it with a high quality manual operated petcock. Like I said earlier, if they malfunction they usually shut the fuel off to the engine. There you are, a full tank of fuel but none to the engine. I'd replace it with an original Harley unit for a 1995 or earlier bike or a high quality aftermarket unit like a Pingle.
You need to find this problem before you ride the bike too much. The lean mixture resulting from a vacuum leak will cause the engine to run very hot.
Posted on Oct 20, 2009
Yes they generally can be stuck in Spring if the fuel wasn't removed last season. Remove carbs. Open top cap and clean with solvent and carb spray. The float bowls can become thick with old fuel as well. Clean everything that you can get to, flush the gas tank before reinstalling carbs and sending new fuel down.
Posted on Apr 05, 2010
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