Question about 2002 Suzuki VL 800 Volusia
Bike has back fired but it also sounds like its coming from the air box.
Get a carb sync kit and follow the directions included dont b5 suprised whn6 u fin6d out all is well in the mix
Posted on Feb 13, 2012
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Synchronizing and balancing the carbs will be a nightmare. I would make a diagram of what hoses attach where and mark each hose. If you remove any adjusting screws or jets, write down the number of turns it takes for removal and than put each one back the same number of turns. Before removing the carbs, drain them (assuming there is anything in them). Now get a spray can of Berrymans carb cleaner (or another brand), and fill the float bowls full of cleaner by disconnecting the fuel lines and spraying into each fuel line until the level in the line is reaching the top of the float bowl. Now wait for a couple of days while the cleaner softens the dried varnish residue in the carbs. Now remove the carbs as a set then dis-assemble and clean with a couple more cans of cleaner.
Getting the pilot jets cleaned out is the big trick. If it will not idle, the pilot jet is problem.
Below is a diagram of your carb. The same diagram with the entire carb assembly AND your entire bike can be found at Babbitt's.
Go to the site below where you can see a parts diagram for your specific bike. You will select the actual brand, year, model, etc., once you go to the site. Part numbers and prices are also shown. You can order parts from this site. In the event no price is shown on a particular part, the part is not in stock. www.babbittsonline.com/pages/parts/viewbybrandand/parts.aspx
Posted on Jun 28, 2009
SOURCE: Bike won't stay running
Drain the carburetors. There should be a screw on the lower side of each CARB float bowl. Remove the screw then replace it after the fuel drains. Remove the water trap bowl at the bottom of the petcock, (gas valve). Is there any water or trash in the bowl? Drain a cup of gas from the tank. Is there any water or trash in the cup? Dump it, clean it and re-mount it, (not all bikes have a water trap bowl). Install new stock NGK spark plugs.
Remove the CARBS from the bike.
FOR EACH CARB > Remove the float bowl and clean the entire CARB with a spray CARB cleaner from the auto parts store. Wear protective goggles to avoid getting spray in your eyes. Spray into all the little airways and fittings in the CARB. Remove the idle screw and the air screw on the outside throat of the CARB and spray into the screw holes as well.
< < READ CLOSELY > >
Be sure to put these two screws back in the same hole they came out of. IMPORTANT > do not tighten these two screws down. Only screw these in until they LIGHTLY seat. Now turn each screw one and one half turns outward. Put the rest of the CARB back together, clean the air filter and install the CARB. Install an in-line fuel filter. Let the float bowl fill then start the engine.
BALANCE THE CARBS
Turn the throttle screw on the LEFT CARB one half turn inward. Now start the engine and get it warmed up. With the engine running, remove the RIGHT spark plug wire. Adjust the idle speed on the left CARB to the point where the engine just can't quite stay running and dies. Now put the loose spark plug wire back into place.
Now turn the throttle screw on the RIGHT CARB one half turn inward. Restart and rev the engine. Next, remove the LEFT spark plug wire. Adjust the idle speed on the right CARB to the point where the engine just can't quite stay running and dies. Now put the loose spark plug wire back into place.
SYNCHRONIZE THE CARBS
Remove the air filter and rubber fittings to allow you to see into the throat of both CARBS. You may need a mirror to see inside. You need to be able to see the slides go up and down when you twist the throttle. Now turn the fitting where the cable goes into each CARB such that there is just a bit of slack in the cable, 1/16" is plenty. Lock ONE of the cable adjusters down tight. All further adjustments will be made on the other CARB.
With the motor turned off twist the throttle very slowly while looking at the slides. Both slides need to begin lifting at the exact same moment. If the slides don't raise at the exact same time then slowly twist the throttle until the locked adjuster slide just barely starts to move. Hold the throttle still and turn the adjuster on the other CARB so that the slide on that CARB just barely starts to move also. Now recheck the slide movement timing. Do this process until the slides on both CARBS begin to raise at the EXACT same moment. Lock down the loose adjuster and re-check the slides.
Turn the idle screw on each CARB EXACTLY ONE HALF turn outward and restart the engine. The engine will be probably be idling very fast. Adjust both the idle screws equally from this point to get to the desired idle speed. Congratulations, you have just balanced and synchronized your CARBS This should fix the problem. One last and VERY IMPORTANT thing, Have a fire extinguisher handy and ready for use any time you work on or with he CARBS.
Please rate this solution. Thanks throttlejock!
Posted on Apr 22, 2009
SOURCE: 1977 750gs carb sync
carb sync is done using only the carb hard stop adjustment u don't touch the air fuel mixture screw, had this exact same bike had the serive manual am dead sure on this
Posted on Aug 04, 2009
The air screw and throttle screw are NEVER supposed to be tightened up at all. Doing this can damage the seat. Only screw the air screw and throttle screw in until they LIGHTLY seat. Now turn each adjuster one and one half turns outward. Chances are you will need to replace the adjuster screws to get the bike to idle properly. Yeah, the ends look okay but that little ring indentation where the screw was tightened down matters a lot. If re-setting the screws fixes the problem you should consider yourself lucky.
Posted on Sep 01, 2009
There should be a finger adjustment screw, where the clutch cable meets the clutch lever. turn it outwards one turn at a time ,if more than five turns or reach end of thread ,your clutch will need replacing.
Posted on Feb 14, 2010
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