Question about 2002 Harley Davidson XL 1200 S Sportster Sport

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Torque specs for the swingarm on 2002 1200 sportster

Removed swingarm,replaced bushings,my manual has no torque values in it missing that page.torque on swngamr bolts caliper bolts axle nuts.

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  • Harley Davidson Master
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Hi Todd,
Axle 60-65 ft lbs.
Swing arm 50 foot lbs.
Caliper 15-20 ft lbs.
Good luck and have nice day.

Posted on Jun 25, 2015

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Mitchy123
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SOURCE: correct torque for rear axle nut on 1997 harley davidson fat boy

Harley manual says 60-65 ft lbs... do NOT exceed this or wheel could seize

Posted on Apr 04, 2009

wd4ity
  • 4565 Answers

SOURCE: brake caliper torque specs

I'd put a drop of Loctite 242 (med. strenght blue) on the threads of each bolt and torque them to 25 foot pounds.

Posted on Oct 24, 2009

Testimonial: "the loctite is something I use always anyways, I was just wondering what to torque em to...thanks!!"

wd4ity
  • 4565 Answers

SOURCE: what is the torque spec on the front axle nut on a

50 foot pounds.

Posted on Feb 26, 2010

Testimonial: "Thank you very much, this info is very helpful as I need to remove and install my front tire today and lost my manual. "

wd4ity
  • 4565 Answers

SOURCE: need torque specs for front wheel cross pin and

Front axle nut = 50-50 ft. lbs.
Front axle pinch bolt and nut = 21-27 ft. lbs.
Front brake caliper mounting bolts = 25-30 ft. lbs.
Handlebar clamp bolts = 12-15 ft. lbs.
Front Fork
Upper bracket pinch bolts = 30-35 ft. lbs.
Lower bracket pinch bolts = 30-35 ft. lbs.
Fork stem pinch bolt = 30-35 ft. lbs.
Front fender fasteners = 9-13 ft. lbs.

Posted on Mar 04, 2010

wd4ity
  • 4565 Answers

SOURCE: Need rear axle nut torque specs on 08 Dyna

50-60 foot pounds.

Posted on May 06, 2010

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The final drive belt can be replaced using regular tools for the most part. You will need a way to "Lock" the primary chain so you can retorque the compensator sprocket nut and the clutch hub nut. The clutch hub nut is left handed threads so you'll need a torque wrench that will torque left handed fasteners.

First, disconnect the battery. To start with, you're going to have to pull the outer and inner primary cases to get to the belt. This means that all of the clutch components are going to have to come out. This can be done at home if you have a good (I mean good) air wrench. The compensator sprocket (engine sprocket, right hand thread) is Loctited at 150-165 foot pounds of torque. The clutch hub nut is torqued to 60-80 foot pounds left handed thread. Make sure your torque wrench will work with left handed threaded fasteners. Take the starter "jack shaft" off. You'll have to remove the starter as well to get the inner primary off. On the FLHTC, I think there is one bolt on the back side of the inner primary with a large braided ground ******** it. This bolt must come out if it's there. Without going outside and getting a book, I think there are four bolts on the engine end of the inner primary, the two starter bolts (3/8" socket head bolts), two bolts or nuts on the inside at the transmission end, and the one bolt down low on the backside of the inner primary. The inner primary should come off easily once you get all the bolts out. You should not have to pry it off. If it doesn't come off easily, double check for bolts that you may have missed.

Once you remove the clutch assembly, you will see the clutch release rod sticking out of the mainshaft. If you pull on this shaft and it comes out, you'll have to pull the right side of the transmission cover to reinstall the clutch release bearing (throwout bearing). It's held on by a very small circlip. If the rod pulls out, the circlip has come off and the throwout bearing has fallen down into the bottom of that chrome cover on the right hand side of the transmission.

Once you get the inner primary off, you will see the front belt pulley. Now, you must remover the rear wheel and the swing arm to get the belt off. You'll need to raise the rear wheel and support the bike with the rear wheel off the ground. You'll need to support the transmission as well since the swingarm acts as the rear motor mount on the transmission. The rubber bushings in the swingarm may have to be repostioned in order to get the swing arm back into position. I use a piece of theaded rod, a couple of nuts and a couple of large washers. I put the threaded rod through the swing arm with the washers and nuts inbetween the bushings. Use the nuts and washer to "press" the bushing towards the outside of the swingarm, spread the bushings so the swingarm will go back into position.

Now, you can work the old belt out. It is much easier if you can get the front belt pulley off but this requires some special tools. A "pulley locking device" and a front pulley locknut wrench. The front pulley locknut is left handed thread and torques to 125 foot pounds with red Loctite. Work the new belt into position and get the swingarm through it. Do not bend the new belt in a radius any smaller than about 4". Doing so will damage the belt and cause premature breakage. Reinstall everything in reverse order.

When you torque the compensator sprocket and the clutch nut, you will have to use a "locking bar" to lock the engine sprocket and clutch outer drum to prevent them from turning while you torque the two nuts. The engine does not have enough resistance to allow you to torque the nuts. Use two lines of Loctite 271 (red) in the compensator nut (right hand thread) and one line in the clutch hub nut, Left handed thread. Torque to specs I gave you in the second paragraph.

Check for proper clutch operation, proper final belt tension, proper rear brake operation before riding the bike. As you can see, this isn't exactly a "beginner's" job. It is fairly complicated but it can be done by someone with above average mechanical skills. I would suggest purchasing a service manual specifically for the bike you're working on.

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