Question about 1998 Yamaha XJ 600 Diversion S-N
Need details of the engine mounts at the front of the motor mine are missing on a motor iam re building
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YAMAHA XJ600 DIVERSION 1996 600CC FRONT ENGINE MOUNTS BRACKETS eBay
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Posted on May 04, 2017
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
xj650(uk) and xj650j
inlet 0.16 - 0.20mm
exhaust 0.16 - 0.20
all other models
inlet 0.11 - 0.15mm
exhaust 0.16 - 0.20mm
set when cold
Posted on Feb 01, 2009
hi m8,,1st,, would u no if the bike has been resricted ,,to 33bhp,,if it hasent2nd,, have a look at the spark plugs,, start her up rev until it coffs or wont rev then hit the kill switch,,see wot colour the plugs are ,,they should a biscuit brown,,if not clean them up or change them,, 3rd test,start her up again throttle it a few times ,,untill shez warm,, then ,this sounds not nice, but either spit on your hand or dip hand in sum water, then quickly touch each exhaust down pipe, and make sure there isnt a pipe cooler than the other 3,, if u do find there is that would narrow the test down to that cylinder thats playin up,,try that 1st m8,, then come back if any probs still, and il take u threw next steps,,
Posted on Apr 19, 2009
YZF600R is a carbureted model. OIL: The oil sight glass is a round window, low on the right side. Very hard to try to see when astride the bike, even if you use a mirror on an extension rod. Have a friend hold the bike level,perhaps, while you check. Oil should be sighted after the bike has been sitting for a time after riding. I suggest using a good 10W-40 regular motorcycle oil (Least expensive around here in Boston is to buy Kawasaki by the gallon at Riverside) I found the pesky 1st-to-2nd shift to be more direct with this oil than with synthetic. I had plenty of opportunity to compare the two types. GAS: No reserve, but as noted, there is a low fuel light, in the row of lights that includes the neutral light and the high beam indicator. You ought to be getting over 50 m.p.g., so you can estimate your 'range' from that. I usually fill up again around the 180 mile period. I think I've seen the low fuel light once in 6 years of ownership. OH: I suggest you treat the gas, on a regular basis, with 'marine' Stabil, not the regular stuff. I have had a 'gummy' Yamaha Virago 250 to care for, that I thought would never clear its fuel problems. Last winter ('08-'09) stored it with the marine Stabil in the tank and run for a while to get it into the carbs also. Within a few minutes of running it this spring-actually a couple weeks ago- it smoothed out and has run fine since. I believe this HAS to be as a result of the treatment of the fuel (run through the carbs before the winter storage) with this special Stabil. It was recommended by Carlo at Riverside- I'll have to remember to thank him for the advice. N.B. I always change the fuel (siphon it out, put that Stabil'ed but 'old' stuff into my car tank, refill the bikes with fresh 93 octane) each Spring.
Posted on Aug 17, 2009
This is caused by air leaks between the carb and cylinder. Tighten the carb / intake clamps and mount screws. If that doesn't help, tighten the cylinder and head down and reset the valves. If that doesn't help, replace the rubber seals and rubber manifold components and the problem should disappear. If not, do a compression check. The exhaust valves may be burned and letting un-carbureted air into the cylinder thus leaning the fuel mix.
Posted on Feb 09, 2010
Most timing chains are self adjusting ,however there are times when they can get stuck .Its a bit of a job to get to and you may have to remove the carbs to gain access.if after you have removed the adjuster unit you find that its not siezed ,its a case of a new cam chain .under no circumstances turn the enging over as this could mess up the cam chain timing .Take care when removing adjuster unit as the ajusting push rod may fall into the engine if great care is nor taken .do not be tempted to push tyhe adjuster pin further in towards the cam chain as this will have the same effect .and that means a strip down ,very exspensive .
Posted on Mar 13, 2010
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