Question about Motorcycles
Need some help setting the timing for this bike... It's running in reverse. Unless it's another problem PLEASE HELP :-)
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: timeing a yamaha 175 enduro
Without the year of the bike I am hampered. Lets assume it is an older bike and has a set of ignition points and not a CDI model.
Pull the cover off the shifter side of the engine. Remove the spark plug then turn the flywheel so you can see the points. Oil on them? Dirt, or rust? Next check the main bearing. Do not rotate the flywheel but instead hold the flywheel firmly and lift it up and down, left and right. Was there any movement or was the flywheel rock solid?
I am willing to bet that the points were dirty and there was a lot of play in the crank bearings. If so, you will need new crank bearings and seals plus new points and condenser. The engine needs to tear down into about 75 parts in order to replace the bearings. The job requires some special tools to remove the flywheel and clutch, plus a crankcase separator the split the gearbox.
This is not a job for the beginner. I suggest you have the shop do the work and also that you spring for 3 more bearings and seals plus a fresh cylinder bore, new piston and rings and a new spark plug. You now have a brand new engine that should run well and last for many years. Please rate this solution. Thanks
Posted on Mar 18, 2009
think most bikes time from the statas plate behind fly wheel , bikes ive worked on have a woodruf key and the flywheel slides on that to stop fly wheel spining on crank
Posted on May 08, 2009
I had the same problem - actually more than one problem:
1) Floats in the carburetor bowl (at the bottom of the carb) are getting stuck. Remove the carb; carefully disassemble the bowl & float assembly (pay attention to gasket orientation and don't lose the needle valve that the float-tab presses on!); use a carb cleaner from AutoZone or similar, and a toothbrush to clean all the parts. If carb is not too dirty, leave the jets and mixture-adjust screws alone (otherwise will have to re-adjust later).
2) Overflow tube is plugged (hence fuel in the cylinder instead of on the ground). Clean both ends of the brass-looking tube from inside and outside the carb bowl. Make sure you can blow through it or it is still plugged. Toothbrush and carb cleaner should do the trick. Replace the short flexible tubing that connects to the overflow on the outside of the bowl - transparent polyurethane tubing is less than $1 per foot at your local ATV/motorcycle shop.
3) Air Vent tube is plugged. Same thing as the Overflow tube but mounted higher up in the carb (not in the bowl). Clean it the same way and replace the flex tubing with another short piece of polyurethane.
4) Make sure the float-tab and needle-valve move smoothly. Mine was catching and getting stuck so I carefully "polished" the face of the tab with 400-grit emery paper, and then made sure to clean the area from grit. Smooth as a hot knife through butter now.
5) Set the float level by CAREFULLY bending the tab that pushes on the needle valve. On my 1981 175MX, float height spec is 21mm when just making contact with the needle. Yours may be different though.
6) Reassemble the carb after making sure all dirt and debris are gone. Use a new bowl gasket or at least put a good gasket-sealer compound on the old gasket. Attach the short lengths of transparent polyurethane tubing to the Overflow and Air Vent. When installing the carb, the Air Vent tube should just be 2" long and point out to the side; the Overflow tube should route through the frame near the swing-arm and point down to the ground.
7) MAKE SURE the Oil Feed tube coming from the AutoLube oil pump is connected to the carb (brass-looking fitting toward the cylinder-end). I replaced mine with transparent polyurethane tubing (different size than the Air Vent and Overflow), so now I can see that oil is being presented to the carb!
8) If the carb was nasty-dirty, you may need a new air filter. Mine was disintegrating. I recommend also putting an in-line fuel filter between the petcock and the carb, again using short lengths of TRANSPARENT polyurethane tubing (so you can see that fuel is flowing). You may also need to adjust & prime the AutoLube oil pump.
I highly recommend getting a Clymer manual (check eBay) which shows all these procedures and gives you the right specs for float height, etc. based on your model / year.
Posted on Dec 03, 2009
1. Your float needle is leaking (most likely). Remove the carb, remove the float bowl. You will see the float itself and it has a tang that touches the float needle. Remove the float and inspect the needle and its seat for dirt or wear. You could try gently tapping the float bowl first, as this may dislodge and dirt, but thats a short term solution.
2. The float level is incorrect. You will need to bend the float tang to adjust. However, find out the float height for your bike first.
Posted on Jun 22, 2010
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