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Removal of Wrist pin circlip

Rather than Circlip it had Snap rings, romoved them, but pin still doesn't come out and can't see a Circlip. Why won't the the pin come out? Don't want to force anything. Manual just says remove Cirlip with a Tinners Awl and Pin would slide right out?

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  • Jon S Feb 07, 2012

    1995 FLSTC Evo engine



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The pin is pressed in as well as retained by the clip.

Posted on Feb 07, 2012


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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: kx 250 gearbox

You didn't say what year the bike is. There is a place on the web you can see an exploded view of your gearbox (and all the rest of the bike).

Go to the site below where you can see a parts diagram for your specific bike. You will select the actual brand, year, model, etc., once you go to the site. Part numbers and prices are also shown. You can order parts from this site. In the event no price is shown on a particular part and/or the notation "Not Available" is in the description, the part is not in stock.

Can I get a “very helpful” rating on this answer?

Posted on Aug 19, 2009

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SOURCE: How do I remove the

give the pin a tap with a hammer..see if that moves it...think these are spring load'ed so dont lose the spring...hope this helps

Posted on Sep 04, 2010

  • 4565 Answers

SOURCE: I have a 2007 1200

You need a special tool to compress the clutch spring. When you compress the clutch spring, the ring that prevents the circlip from coming out will move backwards allowing you to get the circlip out. Then the clutch spring and pressure plate will come off with the tool. Jim's, Barnett's, and Motion Pro makes the tool and it cost about sixty dollars.

Good Luck

Posted on Jun 05, 2011

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The new axles will not go in all the way. We replaced the bearings and axles but the new axles will only go in and lack about 1Inch going in all the way?

Do the axles have a metal ring called a circlip in a groove of the axle, about an inch or two from the end? If they do, you have to force the axle in until the circlip fits into a like groove in the transaxle gear. When forced in, you should hear an audible snap, indicating the circlip is at home in the groove.

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I think what you are refering to is a circlip washer , and can only be
fitted with ( CIRCLIP PLIERS ) do you know any Michanics or Engineers as they are bound to have a set in their toolbox ,on the other hand you
can buy them. What they do is work in the opposit way normal pliers do
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How to remove the circlip/orange pin from carrier to replace pull cord

There are tools to make circlip installation & removal a snap (no pun intended). Two of which are pictured below:

These tools work opposite of each other. The jaws of the one on the left open when the handles are squeezed together and the jaws of the other close when the handles are squeezed together. You would use both; one when you are installing a circlip and the other when removing a circlip. The example has different size tips and for different "angles of attack". There are other manufactures of these tools, too.

I hope this helps & good luck!

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What's the best way to removal the circlip to

Not sure what you are calling a "circlip". I have seen three basic ways to hold the front wheel on. The first and most common is the E-clip. The E-clip is removed by inserting a straight blade screwdriver into the gap and rotating to lift it up and then pulling it up. I use a set of channel lock pliers to reinstall the E-clip. The second is an external snap ring. There is tool specifically designed to remove the snap ring, it is called snap ring pliers. If you go looking to get a pair, keep iin mind there are internal and external. Although Channel Lock makes a snap ring plier that can be used for external and internal. I have had a set of these for many years and love them. The third way I have seen is a cotter pin. Cotter pins are removed with pliers.

I hope this helps get you going.

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I have a 2007 1200 Sportster and I want to know how to remove the clutch plates and pressure plate. There is a circlip that seems to be holding it all in and a ring that doesn't allow the circlip to...

You need a special tool to compress the clutch spring. When you compress the clutch spring, the ring that prevents the circlip from coming out will move backwards allowing you to get the circlip out. Then the clutch spring and pressure plate will come off with the tool. Jim's, Barnett's, and Motion Pro makes the tool and it cost about sixty dollars.

Good Luck

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How to remove the inside snap ring on the inner cv joint on 500 sportsman atv

You need snap ring pliers or I have also used circlip pliers. Thats the best option.

Jan 26, 2010 | Polaris ATV

1 Answer

What is the purpose of a circlip and if it were to break would it cause a grinding sound

A circlip is basically a circular clip. There are two types, inside and outside. An outside circlip fits in a slot cut into the outside of a shaft. An inside circlip fits into a slot cut on the inside wall of a cylinder. Both types are "C" shaped with a small hole in each end of the opening. A special tool called a circlip remover has tiny hardened points that fit into the holes to either expand or contract the circlip for removal/installation. In engines I have seen circlip failures on the piston pin inside an engine to allow the piston pin to move. It could possibly let the piston scrape the inner cylinder wall and cause a grinding noise or worse. If not repaired, I doubt the engine will continue operating for long. Did they find a circlip in your oil after draining the oil?

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Top end repair: After all is removed and replaced, how do I reinstall the piston into the cylinder? What are torque specs for cyl? Inch or ft. lbs?

You will want to install the piston onto the crank before you install the cylinder and head. With the head and cylinder off, the crank rod will be exposed. Put some shop towels around the crank rod before you start to avoid dropping any small parts into your lower end while you replace the piston. Your new piston kit should come with: (1) piston, (2) circlips,(1) wrist pin and (1 or 2) rings depending on the bike. Also it is suggested that you should replace the wrist pin bearing as well (usually sold seperately). If you have not removed the existing piston you will need to remove one of the circlips from the side of the piston. Do this by using a small screwdriver in the teardrop hole where the wristpin attaches the piston to the crank. Then push the wristpin through the piston from the side that still has a circlip through the side that it has been removed from. Once the wristpin is out, the piston will pull straight up off the crank and the wristpin bearing will slide out of the crank rod. Before installing your new parts you will want to have some 2-Stroke oil on hand. Lube up the wrist pin bearing with 2-stroke oil and slide it into the crank rod. Install ONE of the circlips into the piston before connecting it to the bike. Do this in a clean area because these things like to jump out when you're trying to put them in. BE SURE IT SEATS FULLY INTO ITS GROOVE. Once ONE circlip is in, slide the piston over the crank rod WITH THE ARROW ON THE TOP OF THE PISTON FACING THE EXHAUST!! so the wrist pin hole lines up with the wrist pin bearings. Lube the wrist pin and slide it into the piston from the side with out the circlip, through the wrist pin bearing until it seats against the circlip installed on the opposite side. Install the second circlip and MAKE SURE IT SEATS FULLY INTO ITS GROOVE. Install the rings onto the piston. (Some OEM rings have a flat side and a sloped side be sure to match the piston you have removed) Notice that there are tiny notches in the rings that must line up with nipples in the ring seats. This is the only way the cylinder will slide on properly. Next, put a thin coat of oil on the cylinder walls, remove the shop towels, and put on the cylinder base gasket. Now, with one hand, pinch the rings tight to the ring seats making sure the nipples in the ring seats sit in the notches of the rings. With the other hand, slide the cylinder over the piston. THIS SHOULD SLIDE DOWN EASILY! If not, remove the cylinder, verify the rings are properly seating in the ring seats and try again. Once the cylinder is on install the base nuts. If you can get a torque wrench on the cylinder base nuts tighten down to manufacture spec's (24 ft lbs) Usually you can not get a torque wrench on the base nuts because the cylinder walls are in the way so I give it a german torque "goot-n-tite" (good and tight). Next put the head gasket on and the head gasket, and tighten down finger tight. Do this in a criss cross pattern, starting off with hand tight, then 3 or 4 steps until reaching the manufacture spec (18 ft.lbs). Put the plug in and you should be ready to go. Be sure to break in properly by running 3 heat cycles through the enging. From fully cooled, start the bike and ride it using NO MORE THAN 1/2 throttle until it reaches full temp. keeping the RPM's varying. Let cool COMPLETELY. Second heat cycle, same thing except use up to 3/4 throttle. Cool COMPLETLY AGAIN. Third heat cycle ride up to full throttle. Be sure to keep the RPM's varying in all heat cycles. No long runs at the same RPM level. Here is where I got the specs for the cylinder and head torque settings so you may want to call a local shop and verify.

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1 Answer

How to replace front cv shafts ?

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