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It sounds like there is something draining your battery such as an alarm. I would start by charging the battery up and checking the bike starts ok. Then totally isolate the battery and wait a few days. Reconnect it, does the bike start? If no, then its a bad battery (just because its new doesnt mean its good).
If you have a multimeter you can use this to find what is causing the problem. This can be acheived by putting it in series with the battery. There will be some current drain, but no more than around 50mA. If you have a larger drain then start by removing one fuse at a time and see if the current drain reduces to an acceptable level. This should then help identify which circuit is giving you the problem.
Sounds like the headlights are either pulling more current than the stator can provide(doubtful) or you have something bad(regulator or stator) that needs attention. Either way - the bike is built to have the headlight ON all the time it is running. Check to make sure that your battery terminals/cables are GOOD AND TIGHT and get out a volt meter. Put the meter on the battery with the bike off. Start it. Check to make sure the voltage goes up - if it does not - the bike is not charging.
Try charging your battery as a first course of action. Try to disconnect the battery while parked or when it will sit overnight. On the morning, reconnect the battery and start the car. If it does start then the battery is good but if it doesn't, then the battery is faulty for it's not holding charge. If that's the case, the battery will surely need replacement.
If it drains the charge when parking overnight with the battery connected then try checking grounded wires on the fusebox. It can be hard to tell and I suggest that you take an auto electrician with you to trace out the fault.
Hope you find this helpful and thank you for using FixYa! Have a good one!
The oil light is on because the engine isn't running to build any oil pressure. Sounds like the new battery may need to be charged fully. After the battery is fully charged, and the 'clicking' noise is back (or not) check the battery connections for corrosion--especially at the positive terminal. If ok, you should get one solid click when trying to start. If ok, but still not starting, jump the two heavy terminals of the solenoid (click source) with a heavy wire which should bump the starter motor. If nothing, then the starter motor needs service--usually the brushes inside fail to make contact with the armature due to brush wear, or weak springs. Most dealers will likely only sell you a new starter--no internal parts. Hope this helps!
The description "...series of clicks..." is significant. The battery is not putting out enough current to turn the starter motor. The best way to determine the battery condition is to have it load tested. However, considering eveything else, it would almost always be a failed or about to fail battery.
Incidentally, the alarm has been designed to have minimal current drain when in standby.
The battery regulator may not be functioning properly. At times it will send a charge to the battery and at times it won't. This is normal, but if it is not allowing the battery to receive current when it should then there is a problem. Another possibility is a loose connection in the wiring. I would check the connections first.
i know this sounds silly ,but when you bought the battery had it been activated,new batterys are critical in their first charge and you cannot use a standare type automotve charger,if bought dry the battery needs to have the acid filled ,left to sit for at least 2 hours prior to charging,once it has sat for the 2 hrs with the acid in,the new battery will need to be charged with a "cteck"or similar type charger for at least 13 hrs before it can be put into normal service,what happened with yours i think is that sure you gave it a charge but it has only recieved a "surface charge"and will be usable for a very short time,it may recover for a brief period and go again untill the surface charge dissipates,(or in other words ..runs out of charge)best thing you can do with the battery is take it to a auto electrician and have the battery cycled and conditioned,this is not expensive to do and will give you piece of mind,after conditioning the battery shouldngive excellent service,i have the battery in my goldwing coditioned about every 12 months and i have the same battery that was in the bike when i bought the bike 8 years ago and still no electrical or battery problems(costs about $25 to get it done)once a year but that beats $280 for a new one...hope this helps
Even though the battery is new does not mean its not faulty!
Also you might want to check the bikes alternater and make sure it is charging the battery when you are running the bike!
I hope this helps you!
Initially, pls try recharging the battery again. Remove the connector to the voltage regulator. Start/run the bike. If it lasts more than "3-5 minutes" then you have just confirmed a defective regulator. The voltage regulator would look something like below image.