Question about Ducati 748 S Motorcycles

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How to remove the crank nut on 1997 748

Hi, I have a stretched sprag clutch spring, and need to remove the crank nut, but it won't let go. Which direction is undone and any special tricks? Thanks Hm

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  • Ducati Master
  • 43,910 Answers

Hi, Howard sorry you can't find the first and best tool you ever bought for your Ducati despair not for a mere $0 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and free downloads that you will need please visit the websites below. Good luck and have a nice day.
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Posted on Feb 02, 2016

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Mitchy123
  • 216 Answers

SOURCE: remove compensating sprocket direction of nut and

The compensating sprocket has regular threads and will loosen left and tight right. The clutch nut has reverse threads and loosens to the right ..... I've done this procedure several times and if u have any other questions, dont hesitate to ask - good luck

Posted on Mar 18, 2009

dmsr63
  • 2050 Answers

SOURCE: how to remove the clutch from my kdx 200

The simple way to do it is borrow an electric impact gun. (1/2" drive) If you jam something in there you can damage things.

Posted on Jul 28, 2009

  • 3567 Answers

SOURCE: I cant get the big nut to loosen once the springs are removed.

Make your life easy, purchase an impact driver. This tool will allow you to remove stubborn screws, bolts and nuts with just the strike of a hammer. When re-assembling the engine, the driver will let you put the screws on tight. Mine is 45 years old and just as good as new. It is the most used tool in my shop.

If unable to get a driver, put the bike in first gear and have someone step on the rear brake pedal. Could you take a moment to rate my answer? Thanks!

Posted on Sep 29, 2009

  • 86 Answers

SOURCE: removing clutch basket nut

undo anti clockwise.

Posted on Mar 10, 2010

mxtras
  • 194 Answers

SOURCE: Hi, I just want to know how to loosen the bolts th...

You can simply jam the primary drive gear with a penny or other soft metal.

Posted on May 18, 2010

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Hi, Jeff for this situation I would call my local dealer or reputable shop's service/parts department and inquire about any possible quick fix, answers, or parts inquiry. If necessary, transport your bike to the dealer or shop and have a professional technician take it for a test drive, if it is in running condition, and give you a written estimate of repairs and answer any specific questions you may have about your issue. For more information about your issue please visit the website below. Good luck and have a nice day.
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Disconnect the battery. Drain the primary oil and remove the outer primary cover. Remove the four bolts that hold the clutch spring in. Remove the clutch spring and pressure plate. Then, you can remove the friction and steel plates. If you want to remove the entire clutch assembly, you'll have to remove the nut from the transmission mainshaft and remove the sprocket shaft nut. The mainshaft nut that holds the clutch assembly on has LEFT-HANDED THREADS. Once you get the nut off, you'll need a clutch puller to get the clutch assembly off the tapered transmission mainshaft. Get one of the pullers that screw onto the mainshaft and you rap it with a hammer. You do not have to disassemble the clutch assembly completely to remove it from the mainshaft. You can take it off as a unit by removing the snap ring in the center and removing the adjuster plate. Remove the sprocket shaft nut, the chain adjuster nut, and the mainshaft nut and remove the engine sprocket, primary chain and clutch assembly all together.

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The simple way to do it is borrow an electric impact gun. (1/2" drive) If you jam something in there you can damage things.

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Loose slack in my clutch cable in my 08 buell blast


Your clutch needs to be adjusted. Before you adjust it at the lever you must adjust the clutch itself.

On the primary cover is the clutch inspection cover just behind the driver footpeg bracket. Unfortunately to get to it you must remove the Y-bracket and it's a PITA. The nuts that hold it are in a tight space under the seat just below the base of the fuel tank. Before you remove the bracket completely, just loosen the nuts as far as you can without removing them. You may have enough play to pull the bracket out of the way of the clutch inspection cover.

3 allen head screws hold the inspection cover in place. Be careful not to damage the paper gasket. You should be able to reuse it but to be safe, get yourself an extra before performing the adjustment. It's cheap insurance.

With the cover off you will be able to see the face of the clutch pack. In the center is a stamped steel nut held in place with a spring. It is a type of lock nut that will keep the clutch from readjusting itself. Simply pull this out (nut & spring) and set it aside.

In the center you will now see a shaft with a slot in it. This is where you will make the clutch adjustment. Using a regular screw driver simply turn the shaft clockwise until it firmly seats. Do not crank it down hard! Snug it down once, back it out a turn, then snug it down again. Once snugged down, back it out only 1/4 turn.

Replace the lock nut and spring being careful not to tighten or loosen the adjustment you made any more than needed to get the nut to seat inside the clutch. Once the cover is in place the spring will press against the lock nut keeping it secured.

Make sure where the gasket sits is clean before replacing the gasket and inspection cover. Do nut over tighten the 3 screws that hold the cover. It is only aluminum that they are threading into.

Replace/tighten the Y-bracket for the pegs back into place. If you do not have small hands it might be a good idea to have a small-handed person available to assist you in getting the nuts back on the bracket bolts and hand tightened as much as possible for you.

Now that the clutchis adjusted, you can make adjustments to the cable itself to get the free play out of the clutch lever. The cable adjustment is made at the adjuster located roughly halfway between the lever and the bottom of the bike. It's covered by a rubber boot that keeps out dirt and moisture. Carefully pull the boot to expose the adjustment nuts. The clutch lever is considered properly adjusted when there is 1mm of play between the lever and where it hits the stop near the pivot bolt.

It's really an easy job but don't try to adjust it only at the cable. Adjusting the clutch pack itself it really a breeze and even your shifting should be a little smoother. Good luck! =)

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