SOURCE: 2006 Road King
Harleys are known for their shaking but when they get really bad I usually start looking for broken motor mounts. I suspect you either have a lose one or broken. The rubber wears out and then they get obnoxious.
SOURCE: Road King Motorcycle clutch
Theres 2 clutch adjustments you can do - one is on the cable, under the boot, the other is at the clutch hub, under the derby cover in the primary. That should take care of the whine and your problem finding neutral. If you get some teflon spray and shoot it generously down the inside of your cable, you are gonna be surprized at how easy it'll pull
SOURCE: valve noise 2006 road king
Hello redevil67...This is normal for the HD engine, it going to have valve train, top end noise at some point, some as early as 2000 miles. If you take it to the dealer they will try to sell you on worn tappets...key word here SELL..I've seen this many times, dealer replaces componets, 2000 miles later the noise returns.
These are hydraulic valves and as you probably know they operate at zero lash. Personaly, i feel that the problem is that the cams are not hardened properly or machined incorrectly.. When the leading edge of the cam lobes wear to a strange profile it tends to snap the lifter up in the lifter bore. This causes the rest of the valve train to rattle. You hear the noise on top but the culprit makin it, is the cams..Many chose to go with an aftermarket cam, such as an andrews...Another suggestion, is to switch oils. Don't know what you are useing now, but i'm not a fan of dino oil. As the temperature builds the more an oil is stressed. Lucas full synthetic 20w-50 or Mobil1 15w-50 are both excellent for anti-wear and long term protection.
I hope this helps, please rate me a fixya and good luck with your bike.
SOURCE: my 2006 Harley road king shakes alot when standing
Shaking and vibration is normal for most Harleys, it's caused by the angle of the twins, it's normal for mostly all Harley motorcycles.
SOURCE: I had someone change my clutch in my 2000 harley
The clutch is dragging or the primary has too much oil in it. In either case, the transmission is almost impossible to get into neutral with the engine running.
To properly adjust the stock clutch, find the cable adjuster in the middle of the cable. Loosen the locknut and turn the adjust barrel all the way in giving as much slack in the cable as possible. Remove the derby cover on the primary cover. Loosen the locknut on the adjuster screw in the center of the clutch assembly. Turn the adjuster screw inwards until you feel a resistance. Do not force the screw. If necessary, back the screw off and adjust inwards several times to get the "feel" of what you're doing. Turn it inward just till you feel the resistance. Then back the screw back out 1/2 turn. Lock the locknut down and reinstall the derby cover. Go back to the cable adjuster and turn it outward until you have about 1/8 inch of freeplay at the lever.
Overfilling the primary will also make the clutch drag. The oil is up between the clutch plates and it acts like the transmission fluid in the torque converter of an automatic transmission in an automobile. If you look at the clutch assembly with the derby cover off, you'll see that the outer clutch shell is made of bright aluminum. Just inside that, the clutch spring is a darker colored steel. With the bike standing straight up, fill the primary with oil just up to the lowest point of that spring, no higher.
Warped steel clutch plates can also cause the problem you're having.
Good Luck
Steve
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