Model # GSS25WGPDBB. FAN INSIDE FREEZER WILL NOT RUN AT ONE SPEED. Runs slow the fast then slow then fast. not running at one speed anymore. do I replace Fan motor?
Yes, you need to replace the fan motor. Here is a link to the part you need.
SOURCE: refrigerator and freezer are neither
Hello,
If your refrigerator is not cooling, the problem could be
any of the following, follow the steps below one after the other to fix
the problem of your refrigerator not cooling.
First of all, the
most simplest thing to do is to check the temperature.
It might have happened that the temperature control may have
been turned off unknowingly, which is the reason for the problem. So if
that's the issue, just set the refrigerator at 37 degrees and you are
all set.
Poor coiling leads to a heavy frost build up on the evaporator coils. A
frost build up, specially on the ceiling of the freezer, is a sign of
problem in the self defrosting system or damaged gaskets of the doors.
Therefore, check if the refrigerator is facing such a problem and
defrost the refrigerator. It would not cool well if the defrosting is
not happening properly.
A dirty condenser may be the culprit for your refrigerator not cooling
well. What will happen in case if the condenser is dirty is that it will
cut off the extra load. That work is done by the thermostat on the side
of the compressor in case the refrigerator heats more than usual. To
rectify this problem clean the condenser coils using the vacuum cleaner.
These are either behind or beneath the refrigerator
In case the refrigerator is not leveled, that too can lead to the
refrigerator not cooling properly, because if the level is not right,
the door of the refrigerator may not close correctly, causing cooling
problems. If this is the case, it might be necessary to ensure that
refrigerator is at level and is slightly tilted back. Do some adjustment
to get that correct level using a wooden block or see if the screws on
the leveling legs need some looking into.
Check out the door seal. If the door seal is worn out, it will
definitely result in frost build up and that won't allow the door to
close properly, thus the problem of refrigerator not cooling. In
addition to that there can be a problem in the door even if the level
and other things are fine. You would need something to do about the door
then. May be loosen the hinges and fix them in order to get the correct
position of the door. Eventually tighten the hinges.
The food and freezer sections will go dysfunctional if the evaporator
fan is not working properly. This is because then there will be no
airflow to the freezer or the other sections of the refrigerator.
Confirm if both the fans are working well by listening to the sound
emitted by them. There is a possibility that one may work and the other
wont. For that, may be you would have to look for a blockage or
something in the one which is not working. Even after doing this you do
not find any problem in the fan, you may need to replace it. This are
are the general procedure for troubleshooting refrigerator not cooling.
with all this, you should be able to identify and fix the problem.
Take
care.
SOURCE: I have a GE Profile (TCX18PAADLBS) fridge. The
The old GE refrigerator not cold......imagine that. many many issues with GE refrigerators.
Be patient with me and we can get this done for you.
We first need to ensure that the freezer is cold....check your freezer temp. If it is where you want it that is very good news.
Now watch the video that will show you the freezer section,how a refrigerator circulates the air with the evaporator fan. This fan sucks up the cold air from your evaporator coils...(no ice built up on these? if there is then we have a totally different issue) and then blows it over to the refrigerator side. the video is with the freezer on top of the refrigerator just want you to get a general idea of how the air is blown over from the freezer section to the refrigerator side.Watch the video,click on the link http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TnRKj7_BtNw
Now what you will need to check is the cold air getting over to the refrigerator?
If not then the issues will be either the evaporator fan is bad or the diffuser door is stuck closed.
You will need to check the evaporator fan motor....is it being told to come on? check the voltage to it....if it is being told to come on and it isnt then replace it.
If it does come on then you will need to check your diffuser or dampner door.
Your model number comes up empty...click on the link to see where your model number can be located http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oJI_8_Tjplw
When you find your model number go to this website click the link searspartsdirect.com
enter your model number then click on model....your refrigerator drawings should appear. On the top of the refrigerator side either straight back or on the left hand side is the dampner.Take this apart to see if the door is broken or stuck in the closed position. I cant help you anymore without the model number you can email me kdrake84@yahoo,com for further assistance when you have the model number.
SOURCE: Amana Side by side refrigerator Model#:
Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly.
I really think that you have a door switch problem. The fan power is supplied via the door closed switch. The wiring diagram is here
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/frame_diagram.aspx?diagram_id=28596988&pkw_=basket&model_id=5173932&NewWindow=1
and the switch on the diagram is on the left side of the middle of the page just to the right of the vertical line. If this switch has failed you will not have ice in door functions and the evaporator fan will not work. The switch has 3 wires on it. They switch is labeled C (Common) NO (normally open) and NC (Normally closed) The NC wire powers the light with the door open and the NO wire powers the evaporator fan and ice functions with the door closed.
You can lift this switch out of the cabinet by sliding a thin bladed knife or putty knife along the side to release the single locking tab. The light should go off when the door switch plunger is depressed and the evaporator fan should run. It is possible with a BAD switch for the light to go off but the fan not run when the switch plunger is depressed. You need to read voltage out of the switch with the plunger depressed. No voltage on NO plunger depressed = bad switch. (Note you must have power on C at all times!)
This is the door switch for your unit:
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/part_details.aspx?part_id=4008827
It is item 4 of this link:
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=5173932&diagram_id=28596964#d28596964
The information above should help you determine the problem. If not just respond here and I will help you.
Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly
SOURCE: I have a Sears Kenmore Coldspot side-by-side
Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly.
I note that this is a 21 year old refrigerator. Loads of things that can cause the symptom your describing at this point.
Things I see you have done:
1. Cleaned the coils front (I assume you mean inside the freezer) and rear (by the compresor).
2. Changed temp settings
3. Checked "the fan"
Things you need to check....
1. Is the evaporator fan in the freezer compartment running at full speed? If it is running very slow... it will NOT properly cool or freeze.
2. Is the condenser fan in the back of the unit near the compressor running? Just note that if the condenser fan is not running the main chassis will be very warm to hot where the door seals close on the chassis.
3. Is the COMPRESSOR running at all or is it trying to start and then you year a click after about 40 seconds that repeats in 4 - 5 minutes? Another note... 20 year old compressors can start to drag the ROTOR against the Stator and cause higher than normal utility bills... before complete failure. If you noticed your electric usage creeping higher and higher over the last few months you may have a bad compressor.
4. Are you 100 percent sure there is NOT a large block of ice in the back of the freezer compartment all around the evaporator coils? If you find that there is a large block of ice then you need to do a 2 hour manual defrost with an external fan pointed into the freezer compartment, contents removed and the unit unplugged.
After doing step 4 you can return the unit to normal service but if there is an automatic defrosting problem that is HIGHLY likely on a unit that is 21 years old.... you will need to have the automatic defrosting problem corrected.
A note about your ice maker. It has an internal thermostat that has to reach 14 - 16 deg F for the ice maker to start the harvest / fill cycle. If your freezer is running at 30 F it will NOT make any ice automatically.
Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly
SOURCE: Freezer freezes but refrigerator doesn't cool
Hi Check the back wall or floor of the freezer section for frost. Check the freezer (evaporator) fan to see if it is running. Check the condenser coils (under the unit) for blockage from dust. Check the condenser fan (under the unit) to see if it is running. If you have frost in the freezer there is a problem with the defrost system and the freezer will start to warm eventually as well as the fresh food section. If that is the problem you can check the defrost terminator, defrost heater/s, and the defrost timer or adaptive defrost control If used on your unit or the main control board if so equipped. These things usually require dismantling the freezer and other areas of the refrigerator to be checked. You could defrost the freezer by disconnecting the power to the refrigerator and letting it sit for at least 24 hours with both doors wide open to allow the frost to melt completely but it will build up again in 1-2 weeks and start the warming up again. If the freezer is between zero-10 degrees and the fan motor is running usually indicate the airflow is not getting into the fresh food section. You might check the damper control to see if it's opening up and/or the vent clear. Please get back to us if you have further query else please accept the suggestion.
If you remove the back wall inside the freezer and find that the evaporator coils have ice built-up on them, this usually indicates a defrost problem (defrost heater and thermostat or defrost timer (or adaptive defrost control on newer models).
If the evap. coils are more or less clean, then it's probably the air diffuser (also called damper control). The diffuser is located between the freezer and the refrigerator sections.
Thank you for contacting fixya.com
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