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The pins need to come out to remove the pads from the caliper bracket. They rust, and seize in place. What I do here is spray a good rust-penetrant on the pins, let it soak in for about an hour, and then, using a hammer & small punch, I tap the pins out. After you get the pins out, wire-brush them to get the rust off, and apply come anti-seize on them when you reinstall them.
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Generally, this means the left side brake is engaging before the right front brake. So, check the right front brake pads and caliper to make sure they are free floating and not stuck with a little rust. Sometimes, backing up quickly and hitting the brakes kind of hard can break free the disk pads/caliper, but I would recommend taking a look at the brake pads and caliper to be sure they didn't get stuck in place.
The caliper is bolted on by sliding pins that allow the caliper to adjust itself. I would assume the sliding pins are stuck. The bolts slide inside the carrier that holds the calipers.
Not hard at all. Just lift car, take wheel off. Spot the Caliper. Take the two guide pins (bolts) out and slide the caliper off the pads. Pull both old pads off and replace them with the new ones. Place brake grease on the outside of the pads where the calipers push on them or they will squeek badly. Use a C-clamp or a break tool (that you can borrow from AutoZone) to push the caliper piston back in so it will fit over the new pads (while doing this, watch the break fluid resivoir as you may need to take some out so it does not overfill). Then slide the caliper back over the pads. Place some grease on the guide pins and then put them back in. Then put the wheel back on.
Make sure you start the car and pump the breaks until you feel them grab again or you won't have breaks until they do.
For a wrench or for the acctual bolt size.
To remove front pads..you need 8mm allen socket to pull the caliper guide pins, then 17 or 18mm..To remove rear pads...you need 13mm socket for lock bolt on guide pins and 15mm open end wrench (thin section to hold guide pin while you remove lock bolts..I ground down a spare wrench). You DO NOT have to remove rear carriers to change rotors..just remove lock screw and angle rotor out. The B5 Passats don't have the electronic parking brake so you don't need VAG Com to change pads. Installation tips: Clean and regrease the guide pins with "synthetic caliper grease" Rear lock bolts come with preapplied thread locker and "are not to be reused"..I just wire brush the threads and use some Loctite Blue on em. I smear just a little antisieze on the inside bore of the rotors and on the lock screw threads to prevent corrosion and make next rotor change ez. Torques: Front caliper guide pins:18 ft lb Front carrier bolts: 89 ft lb Rear guide pin lock bolts:26 ft lb Wheel lugs: 89 ft lb
Nope. 90% chance its your caliper pins. the caliper is required to float. When you remover the caliper by the two pins or whatever your application they require lube. if one is bent or seized the caliper wont float, the pads or pad will continue to wear because the caliper wont return to "neutral" location when the piston no longer has pressure on it. locate these pins and lubricate them with a graphite grease or something like lubriplate or similar. if the pins are bent remove them and replace. they're pretty cheap. good luck
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