Kawasaki FH641V riding lawn mower engine not starting I removed, cleaned and reinstalled carb. Installed new spark plugs, and one bad coil, cleaned the air filter, changed fuel lines and in line filter, and changed oil and oil filter. Engine will turn over, but not spark. Spark plug tester shows current to coils, but there is no spark at electrodes. What can I check next?

SOURCE: 23 hp kawasaki engine will not fire- I have spark at the plug. Plugs wet. installed new plugs. Intake into carberator is full of gas.

check the operation of the valve on the bottom of the carb

SOURCE: blade belt diagram for John Deere LX178 Riding

Remember the belt rule, V of the belt goes in V pulleys.Flat pulleys that are stationary or move get the back of the belt. You can figure it out. Its not rocket science. Remember at some point there has to be a tensioner,usually gets the back of the belt if its a flat pulley. U may have to remove the spring and then reattach the spring after the belt is routed.

Kelly

• 3740 Answers
• Posted on Mar 28, 2011

SOURCE: 21 hp kawasaki stalls and

Seems odd that after changing carbs you have this symptom but a dirty air cleaner or restiction in the air intake ducting can cause this. I note you said you changed the air filter(s). I am assuming you changed both the paper and foam filters. My thoughts are maybe there is some gasket material partially blocking the intake under the carb so when under load it is acting like the Choke is on. ( Before you go lifting off the carb.. a partially engaged choke valve will do the same thing. It will run just fine at low speeds or little load but when you put a heavy load it will choke out / get too much fuel.

Last thing that can cause the engine to act really weird is that the gas cap is vented and if the vent is clogged in the gas cap it will cause very unstable operation of the engine at higher rpms.

Your engine service manual is here:
http://www.smallenginewarehouse.com/images/manuals/FH641-Service.pdf
Carb informationis in section 2 - 8

I reommend you inspect
- the tank cap (no plastic bag in place of the rubber under the gas cap to prevent the tank from leaking)
- the choke linkage and position of choke valve (Off or partially on?)
- screen if any under the air filter (Thinking out of the box... what if the air filter is being drawn against the air cleaner / filter housing causing a choke situation under load)

Don't do this for very long but try a high load test with the air filters removed.

One last dumb thought is... the fuel pump is ported to the engine crank case breather. If the diaphragm fails it can put fuel in the oil which will cause the oil level to rise due to the added gas and then end up over pressurizing the crank case. (You said you changed the oil.. and I would think the oil level is still the same as it was post oil change.)

Those are my thoughts and recommendations for the moment. If anything else come to mind I will send you another post.

If you have questions feel free to ask. I wll tell you that I am using the service manual and my 40 + years of experience to help you.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly