I checked wire and plugs to coil, ignitor unit, and fuse, all seemed ok.

Replace the /the ignitor switch in the distributor electronic control switch its the ignitor in your distributor its the unit the wires going into ur distributor makes them complete ur spark

In most cases the crank sensor generates AC voltage when the crankshaft is moving. You would check it with a volt meter.
How did you test the crank sensor ?

Hey Roland,
I have the same problem. How did you fix this problem? Was it the Ignitor or the Rectifier? Please let me know. Thanks.

try changing No.1 or 2 coil to No3. wiring to make sure coil is sparking if not you may have two faulty coils

Remove the bottom panel and start dryer . If you see the red glow , then ignitor is ok . Disconnect the plug (2 or 3 wires ) going to the burner and check for 120 volts . If no red glow , replace the ignitor pt # 279311 . If not 120 volts , then , normally , thermal fuse is bad (white piece with 2 small terminals on blower box ) is bad .

I didn't notice the year of the bike but
the orange wire comes directly from your TCI ignitor unit.
It might be a faulty pickup coil or the ignitor unit itself.
the pickup coils are in the right engine case and
have about 110 ohms resistance.
If there is no ohms reading on the pickup coil then
it is faulty.
If the pickup pulse coils are good then your
main ignitor unit is probably faulty.
Sometimes the solder joints can crack in them.

The easiest way to check the ignitor is to observe it. Remove the small access panel in front, select a high temperature setting and start the dryer. Watch the burner assembly, shortly after starting the unit the ignitor should begin to glow or spark. If you see it glow or spark, then the ignitor is working. If the ignitor did not appear to function and it is the spark type, it may be out of adjustment which generally requires professional service or it may require replacement. If the ignitor is the glow type, you can test it for resistance with a multimeter.


The ignitor has two wires connected to it.Label the wires and connections so that you can properly reconnect them later. The wires are connected with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire itself). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or replaced.

Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Touch one probe to each terminal. You should get a reading anywhere between 50 and 600 ohms. If you get a reading of zero or infinity, the ignitor is definitely bad and will need to be replaced.

(((if the ignitor is ok, this will confirm that either the thermal fuse or gas valve coils are damaged. To check the thermal fuse, you will need to extract the internal blower housing. it is located on this device. replace the thermal fuse of found to be damaged. if the thermal fuse is operational and not blown, replace the gas valve coils located on top of the actual burner assembly))

Check first the wire connections to your ignition unit. Are they properly plugged? If all wires are good, try to measure the voltage from one of the wires to the ignition unit while the ignition key is in "on" position. If there's no voltage, have someone check your ECM. If there's a good voltage reading, try replacing your ignition unit with a good one.

well if this is the model i think it is you have pgm ignition. you have an ignition coil , ignitor unit, ground wires all(corrosion) left to check.
coil testing

1. With ignition switch OFF, remove the distributor cap.
2. Remove the two screws to disconnect the BLK/YEL front terminal A and WHT/BLU from terminal B of the coil.
3. Using an ohmmeter, check resistance between terminals. Replace coil if resistance is not within specification.
4. Check that the primary winding resistance between terminals A and B is 0.3-0.5 ohms.
5. Check that the secondary winding resistance between terminals A and the coil tower is 9,440-14,160 ohms.
6. If not within specifications, replace the coil.

unit testing

1. Check and service any Honda engine codes before proceeding.
2. Check the No. 32 50A fuse on 1985-91 models, or the No. 39 50A fuse on 1992-95 models in the dash fuse box before testing.
3. Remove the distributor cap, rotor and the leak cover.
4. Disconnect the wires from the igniter.
5. Turn the ignition switch ON.
6. Check for voltage between the BLK/YEL wire and ground. If there is no voltage check the BLK/YEL wire and ignition switch.
7. Check for voltage between the WHT/BLU wire and ground. If there is no voltage check the WHT/BLU wire and the ignition coil.
8. Check the continuity between the WHT wire and body ground. Service the wire or connectors as needed.
9. Check for continuity between the BLU wire and body ground. If no continuity check the wire and connectors between the igniter unit and the

tachometer or the A/Trans control unit.

after these things let me know if problem persists

1. If any tests were not passed, replace the igniter unit.