Ledio, I am unable to access specific photos on Picassa
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I have downloaded instruction manual for 1755 rocker switch
This is ordinary triple-rocker-switch to control 3 different loads.
It is like having 3 single pole switches and each switch controls a separate light (Load)
This is single pole switch for 120Volt, and not suited necessarily for 240Volt loads.
Switch is not for 3-way application as typically found in hallway where 2 switches control same light.
1) You have 4 wires.
Electricians don't guess, they test.
There are 4 types of wires in 120Volt and 240V household wiring: Hot wire, Neutral wire, Load wire, and ground wire.
Load wire means the wire that connects to switch and goes to Light, fan, motor (load)
Hot wire always connects to one side of switch.
Neutral never connects to switch.
Load wires connect to side of switch opposite Hot wire.
Bare copper ground wire connects to any green ground screw.
2) One-and-only-one wire in each 120Volt electrical box is Hot. (assuming you are not replacing
3-way switch or working with 240V)
3) Separate all 4 wires for testing. Tape tester leads to wood sticks. Turn power ON.
Test each wire to bare ground wire. Tester will light up on Hot wire.
4) Hot is identified. Next, find the neutral wire if it is among the 4 wires.
Test Hot wire to all other wires in box, except bare ground wire.
Tester will light up on neutral wire.
Tester will not light up on Load wires.
5) NOT EVERY switch box has a neutral. Or the neutral wires can be twisted together and covered with wire nut and pushed to back of box.
The neutral may be up in the light fixture. Neutral located in ceiling box is typical with bathroom fan-light-heater combos.
If neutral is not one of the 4 wires, then don't worry about the neutral connection because it will already be wired together.
6) Image of 1755 switch shows 1 screw terminal on the Hot side, so connect Hot wire to this single screw.
Other side of switch has 3 screws for connecting each of 3 Load wires.
Note: Neutral wire is NEVER connected to a switch.
http://www.frostelectric.com/WOE-IMAGES/00381764.jpg
7) Since I cannot see wiring project or know what loads or how the testing comes out, I suggest connect the Hot wire to single screw terminal.
And then connect 1 of the other wires to other side of switch. Not a neutral.
Turn power ON, and try switch.
Process of elimination might yield result.
8) Add a comment with more question, and it sends e-mail. I will respond.
More resources:
http://waterheatertimer.org/See-inside-main-breaker-box.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/B220C.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-Cooper-277-pilot-light-switch.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/How-to-wire-double-rocker-s.jpg
Hi Gene, thank you for taking the time to respond to my questions. Here is a better link to the pictures:http://bit.ly/oq9bxV
I'm in USA, 120 Volt, and this is a single pole switch, I'm pretty sure.
Yes, there are 4 wires, black, red, blue and white. A fifth one, gree, is attached to the box.
I read through your instructions and looked at the pictures again, I had to put the old switch back together, there is only one black(hot) wire that's coming in, and red, blue and maybe the white are the loads. This switch controls a fan unit, which has a light, a fan, and a heater, 3 in one. If you look at how the old switch is wired, the top switch(blue and white wire) controls the light, the middle one where the hot(black) goes controls the fan(sucks air out), and the bottom one(red) controls a fan heater(blows air in).
You're right to say that I need to test all this, and I will, but I can't make out where these wires should go to the new switch. The black one probably to the common screw, red and blue to each load screw and the white, if it's another load to the other load screw, but if it's the netural, leave it alone.
The groud(green), not visiable in the picture, is attached to the box by a screw. I take it I need to make an extension from it, and attach it to the grown screw.
Hopefully this explains my project a little better :)
Thanks,
Ledio
(1) Wires must be tested, ESPECIALLY white wire. (2) Open following link for possible wiring diagram:http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Levit... (3) fixya site adds space after end of link that has to be removed before link works. (4) Add another comment
Thanks Gene, love the diagram. I'll give it another shot as soon as I can, and let you know what I find out.
The more I think about this problem: The 3 switches don't appear to be typical on-off switches in any way. I think they might be supplied as part of the fan-light-heater combo, and could be made for that specific installation.
Just don't want you disappointed. The wires should be tested. Hook them up to the switch and see. The center switch having hot jumpers to other switches is 100% typical. But why is the center switch turning on the lights by going through the other switch? That wiring is strange. But those switches and ceiling unit might also be universal and for 240v applications like found in GB.
Will be playing around with it this weekend, I'll let you know how it goes.
The white wire has to be the Hot wire:http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Levit...
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So are you saying this may not work after all? That switch is really ugly and old, just like the fan :), and I would like to replace them, but the switch first, if possible.
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