Front dic brake is locked the bike is a 1975 kawasaki kz 900 how can i unlock it to move the bike

Question edited for clarity.
Question moved from Cars and Trucks

It is here

https://kojaycat.co.uk/epages/950000457.mobile/?ObjectPath=/Shops/950000457/Categories/Motorcycle_Wiring_Diagrams/Kawasaki/Z900__KZ900_Z1_Wiring_Diagrams&ClassicView=1

More here

https://www.google.com/search?q=Kawasaki+KZ+900+wiring+diagram

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Find safe area w/o traffic. Reach 50 mph, then gently apply rear (only) brake and feel if shaking reduced through 45mph. Then it's rear wheel. Don't recommend trying this with front brake.

Try disconnecting all electrical connectors( one at a time) spray them with electrical contact cleaner( not wd40) and brush the residue out with a small stiff brush. This includes the main ignition loom,coil leads,igniter leads,fuse box and regulator.
It is probably a very poor connection and this causes it to fail. When you change it it possibly renewing the electrical contact. The slightest discolouration on any of the connections will cause problems. Good luck. jamesey555

make sure the piston in the master is going all the way back past the bleed orifice, if it ddoesn't go all the way back the system willl build pressure through heat

you and many others are looking for this answer, but kawasaki do not keep paint codes for there older bikes ( i had a 79 z1000 )and had no luck from kawasaki via email phone calls etc, the only thing you can do is use a piece that is as good as new and get it matched from a good paint shop ,

wwwkzrider.com
good web site on these bikes with many looking for the paint codes somebody might be able to help..

Check if there's any play within the bearings..top and bottom of the triple tree. Put your bike on the center stand and ask someone to sit onthe bike seat and tht way it will raise in the front, try to shake the triple tree into forward and backward motion, if you do find some play thn try to adjust them(bearing)...careful not to keep em tight or else you wont get a good balance on the steering whiles riding!
Check the bushing at the handle bar too!
Hope this helps!

Tes it is Stephen.. Replacing the guide with prevent the chain from flapping and causing damage to the parts around it. Clean everything off with degresser and a strong hosr and it will be clearer to evaluate. Good Luck -Ned_

Angela, do you have a Clymer, Hayne, or service manual for the bike? If not you should get one, there is a lot of valuable information in there even if you don't do all the work yourself.

Replacing the fork seal requires putting the front end in the air, disconnecting everything from the front wheel (brake lines, speedometer cable if there is one), and dropping the wheel and fork tubes CAREFULLY to separate the two pieces of the fork tubes. Then grab the old seal and replace it with the new seal.

This short description is a VERY abbreviated and simplified version. It's not hard once you have done it a couple times but be very careful not to bend anything in your forks. They have springs inside them too. Change the oil while you are in there. Usually 10 or 15 weight fork oil but look in your manual. If you can't find a manual post again with your bike's year and we will see what we can come up with.