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When our new GE washer drains, water overflows from the drain pipe. The PVC drain pipe opening is 2 inches in diameter. Is it too small? Any ideas what the problem is?
broken plastic water outlet - can't drain overflow catch basin washer because can't get plastic drain part outbroken plastic water outlet - can't drain overflow catch basin washer because can't get plastic drain part out
AnonymousMar 30, 2014
broken drain plug since I can't open it, the washer is overflowing.broken drain plug since I can't open it, the washer is overflowing.
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2 ins is rather small and there may also be a partial blockage somewhere in the system you are not aware off.
a naughty cure is to restrict the drain hose of the machine so water comes out a bit slower
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if u add an extension to the drain hose it will take a long time to and go down the pvc pipe. Just check for clog. by giving it for service one time may work.
30 degrees or 30 inches. The drain stand pipe is separate from the washer and usual plumbed in behind the washer. You bring the the drain hose up to the top of the standpipe and then push the end (forming an upside down U at this point) into the top of the open 2-3" diameter PVC pipe and secure it so that it won't back out (but do not seal the opening). Nylon ties or hose clamps will work. The height requirement is so that the bottom of the hose in the standpipe is above the water level in the washer - this avoids the drain siphoning the water out of the washer. Check how far into the standpipe the drain hose has been pushed. If it is below the level of the water in the washer, back it out. Check the height of the standpipe. Many washer manuals recommend a 34" standpipe (max height of 48") based on the drain hose length on the down side of the U. Also make sure no one sealed the top of the standpipe against air entering the pipe. (Often this is done because of a back up in the drain, pull the drain hose out and get the pipe cleaned out and then put the hose in to the proper distance. Then leave the top of the standpipe open.)
Hello,
You can buy a replacement relief valve at any hardware or home improvement store. It's real name is a T&P valve or temperature and pressure relief valve. It always has a 3/4" inlet and outlet. It is a very easy procedure to replace. You will need a bucket, teflon pipe thread tape, and a 3/4" x 6" black iron or galvanized pipe nipple. To start the valve replacement, turn off the shuttoff valve on the cold water line. Then open the handle on the relief valve and drain water into the bucket, that is, unless you have a pvc pipe coming off of it into a drain floor, then just drain it without the bucket. Be careful, the water is hot! When the water level gets below the relief valve, it will stop draining. Then remove the pvc pipe, if applicable, and thread in the 6" pipe nipple to use as a leverage tool to remove the valve from the water tank. Turn it counter clockwise to remove. Then put teflon tape on the new valve, going from left to right with the valve threads facing downward. Wrap about 3-4 layers all around the threads. Then twist the new valve into the water tank clockwise and using the pipe nipple tighten by hand until very snug and outlet is facing downward, as before. Remove the pipe nipple and install pvc pipe, if applicable. Leave valve handle open and turn on the cold water until the valve starts spitting, then close the relief valve and let it fill up the tank. If you did it correctly, you are now finished! Good luck!
Douglas
I assume it is dripping water when the AC is running. If you look at the attic unit, there should be a PVC pipe running from the unit - probably an insulated PVC pipe. This pipe probably goes across the attic to the edge of the house and drains outside. The drain pan may also have a drain pipe, but the one on the AC unit is the issue, and is probably plugged. Go outside and see if you can locate the AC drain pipe. See if the ground is wet below the pipe and if water is steadily dripping from the pipe (with AC running). If the pipe and ground are dry, the pipe is plugged. If you have a wet/dry vac, try connecting it to the drain pipe outside to see if you can **** the pluggage out. If you can get it clear, water should start dripping out of the pipe. This same thing happened at our house. I decided to cut the pipe in the attic, and add in a PVC isolation valve, tee, and water hose connection with plug, so I can valve out the AC unit from the pipe, remove hose connection plug, and hook up a water hose and flush the line to outside. Lowe's sells all of the PVC pipe fittings. The water pressure from the hose will always flush out the algae and crud to the outside of the house. I can also remove the plug and pour a cup of bleach down the drain pipe every couple of months to keep algae growth in check. I also cut out the trap (u-leg) from pipe in the attic and purchased a ready made trap a Lowes (the contractor who built our house had made a lousy homemade trap). I purchased a few PVC elbows and installed the trap on the drain pipe outside. By the way, our AC drain pipe comes out of our wall outside and drains near our outside unit. Our secondary drain pan drain pipe comes out outside from an eave on the side of the house. I don't know what you drain line looks like (it may have a port to add bleach, or some cleanout provisions, maybe not). If you choose to modify/improve it, then make a sketch of it, go to Lowe's and get the PVC parts you need + PVC pipe primer and cement. PVC cement dries fast. Remember, the pipe must flow downhill from you AC attic unit. You can use a regular wood saw to cut the pipe. I hope this helps you. You need to keep the drain line clear as algae will continue to grow in it. Pouring bleach in the line every month or two helps. You also need to check maybe once a month that the line is draining properly (check to see if dripping outside). You can get some serious water damage to your ceilings if the water backs up and overflows. I discovered that our drain line was plugged just in time as our drain pan drain line was also partially plugged and drain pan was about to overflow.
first
check the drainage pipe, the hose goes into and make sure its not clogged, once you know there are no obstructions reattach the drain hose. be sure it goes a couple of inches into the pipe but has a little space for air flow between hose and pipe. I this doesnt fix the problem the hose made need to be raised, it should enter the pipe several inches higher than the washer. Hope this helps
You have no problem with the washer, your problem is the pipes have a build up in the that is restricting the outflow of the water. This happened to me and I replaced the pipes.
If you have ever experienced the problem where you washer continually fills but never reaches the proper level (not an overflow). Or, the wash tub water level cannot be maintained, because the water level keeps dropping. You may be experiencing what is known as "siphoning". This occurs when there is no air gap for the drain line at the standpipe. The standpipe is the drain pipe at the wall where the washer drain line is placed. With no air gap, a vacuum is created, and water will begin to drain from the wash tub prematurely. To prevent this from occurring, follow this advice:
* The standpipe should be 2 inches in diameter to allow a sufficient air gap between the top of the standpipe and the drain hose. * The standpipe should be a minimum of 34" from the floor, and should not exceed 72 inches in height. * DO NOT seal the top of the standpipe. Many consumers seal the standpipe in the belief that this will prevent overflows, or get rid of drain odors. This often creates more problems than solutions. * DO NOT place the drain hose too far down into the pipe. Water stays in the drain trap area of the standpipe. If the end of the drain hose rests in this area, no air gap is created, and this can also cause siphoning. 4 to 6 inches is sufficient. * The drain hose length must not exceed 10 feet in length. Excessive drain hose length can cause drain problems and back wash.
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ok thats easy enough,,i dont do plumbing but i know appliances,,,go to one of your do it yourself home improvement places and purchase a plastic sink,,,sink has to hold 16 gallons ..or more,,add it to your pipe in the floor and let the water drain into tub first...the most your unit will drain at any one time is 14 gallons,,wash or rinse,,..onthejob...also you can place this truff anywhere with some pvc,,,hold thing might run 49.99..tops
broken plastic water outlet - can't drain overflow catch basin washer because can't get plastic drain part out
broken drain plug since I can't open it, the washer is overflowing.
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