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Stall as in cuts out ? Or no power stalling ? Have u got pipe from engine to break master cylinder are your fluid pots full to the full mark ? Will it stall if you coast ? Ie stop acclerating ?
Hi there I once had a wee car,whenever it got too much petrol inside itself it refused to go anywhere and had to rest for some time and you had to be very careful with the choke and the petrol so it did not swallow too much of it and need another rest. kolbrun
Sounds like an electrical problem. Check connections to battery remove & clean them , check + wires to engine, to power supply for the engine management.
This may be caused by the idle air control sticking.
BTW, warming up a modern vehicle for the sake of the engine is not good; driving it off gently will bring it up to operating temperature more quickly and reduce wasted fuel.
The engine just shouldn't be operated at high revs right away.
It stalls and has no power since there is not fuel. It could be :
1- Fuel filter is clogged up.
2- Injectors are clogged up.
3- Throttle body gummed up.
Do # 1 first if it doesn't improve the situation, then follow these items:
A- Check the injector module if it is working by Plug in NO ID at each injector electrical plug to see if they are lighted up during the cranking.
- If there are lights flashing up at these injectors then Injector Module is good.
- If there isn't light flashing then the injector Module needs to be replaced.
B- If the injector Module is good, proceed to C.
C- Break the connection from the gas line to the fuel Distributor and start the engine to make sure gas is delivered to the fuel distributor before proceeding to D
D- Check out # 2 by removing Injector from cylinder #1 leaving the electrical plug in, with a bottle or Ziplock bag to catch the fuel then have a helper to start the engine to see if fuel coming out of the injector. If there isn't then the injector is bad. Replace a bad injector. You can repeat this method for the rest, or just replace all injectors as I would suggested as the car age.
After this, it should be running well and sometimes having stalled then the time to clean the throttle body.
Good luck.
did you check all the fusable links sometimes they dont break all the way maybee check all the grounds on the truck there is one on the back of the head and should be a comp. ground and of course the engine ground from bat. sometimes you have to losen them and retighten to establish a new clean ground
Sounds like your alternator is shot. Remove your alternator and take it into Advance Auto Parts store and they can do a test on it. Don't waste any more money on batteries until you get this checked.
Also, don't be fooled by some sellers. A rebuilt alternator is just as good as a new one.
What initiated the need for jump starting? Is the alternator charging? Has the battery been checked?
To check the alternator, once the engine has been jumped and is running, remove one of the battery post connections. If the engine dies, the alternator is not charging the battery, and the symptoms you describe are the on-board computer going through low voltage spasms until sufficient electrical power to operate the engine / tranny is drained and the car dies.
If the car continues to run with no battery attached, the alternator is charging - - - and I would recommend removing the battery and having it checked and (if good) recharged to full capacity. I would also recommend having it charged even if the alternator is the problem just to delay the onset of the low voltage problems. The car should operate normally for a few miles before the battery drains too low after a full recharge, enabling you to get it to a shop for alternator service / replacement.
If you attempt replacing the alternator yourself, make sure the battery is disconnected prior to starting the job. Saves blowing up good stuff by accidental short.
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