20 Most Recent 2003 Yamaha XT 600 E Questions & Answers


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2003 Yamaha XT... | Answered on May 01, 2017


Hi, Conrad for this senario you will need your service/owners manual if you can't find the first and best tool you ever bought for your Yamaha, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
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2003 Yamaha XT... | Answered on Apr 24, 2017


are you sure batterys ok?....if so check all conections on battery & solenoid...i would look at the battery being knackerd....get it checked

2003 Yamaha XT... | Answered on Aug 18, 2011


check the spark plug to see if it is getting fire. also check the points and clean them

2003 Yamaha XT... | Answered on Aug 04, 2011


Hi, If you don't positive cable shorted to body, you are correct , the problem is on your alternator rectifier. You can not found anywhere the voltage regulator on your bike Except inside the alternator. You have to working hard to get your alternator out and fix the rectifier ( replace it of course). Good luck,
Regards, Jay

2003 Yamaha XT... | Answered on Mar 01, 2011


You need to check the spark plug and make sure it is firing( has spark).Hope this helps
D.

2003 Yamaha XT... | Answered on Sep 27, 2010


Those voltage numbers are horrible. Just sitting on your workbench, the battery should read at least 12.8 volts. And without the gear turned on, the voltage at idle should be above 14 volts. I have a hunch you're going to find the voltage regulator and/or bad connections in the brown coupler are the culprit, but I suppose it wouldn't hurt to check the alternator. Unplug the brown coupler, set your meter to read AC volts and probe any two of the yellow wires in the harness side of the coupler. Rev the engine to 4000 rpm and you should see at least 60 volts AC. If you consider the three yellow wires to be A, B, and C, you'll need to perform this test on the pairs A-B, A-C, and B-C. Good luck.

2003 Yamaha XT... | Answered on Nov 10, 2008


Hi, Dan and the usual suspects are:
1. Improper clutch adjustment or not disengaging.
2. Bent shift shaft.
3. Shift fork bent or seized.
4. Gear seized on the shaft.
5. Gear positioning lever binding.
6. Shift return springs weak or broken.
7. Shift return spring pin loose
8. Shift mechanism arm spring is broken.
9. Shift mechanism arm is broken.
10. Shift drum is broken.
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Yamaha XT 600 E... | Answered on Jan 05, 2018


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Yamaha XT 600 E... | Answered on Jun 12, 2017


Hi, Crespindude for this scenario you will need your service/owners manual if you can't find the first and best tool you ever bought for your Yamaha, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
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Yamaha XT 600 E... | Answered on May 15, 2017


Hi, Anonymous before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test because your battery may have 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage and must be replaced AGM types more so than lead acid batteries.
1. Battery Test: The battery needs to be a fully charged and load tested to ensure proper readings, connections need to be clean and tight. If you are not working with a fully charged and functional battery, all other voltage tests will be incorrect. Standing battery Voltage should be 12.5-13.2 DCV.
2. Charging System Voltage Test: Start motorcycle, measure DC volts across the battery terminals you should have a reading of approximately 13.2-15 DC Volts.
3. Check Connections/Wires: Inspect the regulator/stator plug, and check the battery terminals for connection/corrosion. If everything seems to be in order, move on to number 4 below to determine if there's a failed component.
4. Stator Checks/Rotor Check: Each of the following tests isolates the Stator & Rotor. If AC Output test Fails and Resistance Check, and Stator IB Test Pass then Rotor is at fault (Pull Primary covers and inspect rotor for damage).
5. AC Output Check:
Unplug the regulator plug from the stator
Start motorcycle and change Voltmeter to AC volts.
Probe both stator wires with your meter lead.
The motorcycle should be putting out approximately 18-20 ACV per 1,000 rpm. Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual specification
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
32 amp system produces about 16-20 VAC per 1,000 rpm
45 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
Stator Resistance Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale.
Probe each stator wires with meter leads and check resistance on the meter.
Resistance should be in the range of 0.1-0.5 Ohms. Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual for specification
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 0.2 to 0.4 ohms
32 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
45 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
Stator IB test or Ground Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale.
Probe each stator wire with your positive lead on the multimeter and the negative to ground.
There should be no continuity to ground on either wire.
If there is continuity to ground your stator is shorted to ground.
5. Regulator Test: Each of the following tests isolates the regulator only, so if any of these tests fail, the regulator is at fault.
Identifying Wires:
Battery Charge Lead- Wire going from regulator to battery positive.
AC output leads- Wires coming from the Stator to the regulator.
Ground- Wire from Regulator to ground or regulator may be grounded via the physical bolting to chassis.
Regulator Ground Test: Ensure the regulator body is grounded or grounding wire is fastened tightly to a good ground (you should verify this by checking continuity from regulator body to chassis ground).
Fwd/Reverse Bias Test/Diode Test: This check is testing the Diode function to ensure it is regulating the AC current for the stator into DC Current.
Switch multimeter to Diode Scale.
Place your Multimeter positive lead on each AC output wire.
Place your multimeter negative lead on the battery Charge wire.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the AC output wires and the Positive lead on the Battery Charge Wire.
The reading should be Infinite.
With your meter on the same setting, place your multimeter positive lead on the regulator ground wire or to the regulator directly, and then place your meter negative lead on the AC output leads.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the regulator ground and the Positive lead on the AC output wires.
The reading should be Infinite.
Note: Below is a table to show the readings:
Positive Lead Negative Lead Reading
AC output 1 Battery charge lead Voltage
AC output 2 Battery Charge Lead Voltage
Battery charge lead AC output 1 ?
Battery charge lead AC output 2 ?
Ground AC output 1 Voltage
Ground AC output 2 Voltage
AC output 1 Ground ?
AC output 2 Ground ?
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Yamaha XT 600 E... | Answered on Apr 26, 2017


Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service/owners manual if you can't find the first and best tool you ever bought for your Yamaha, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Yamaha XT 600 E... | Answered on Apr 11, 2017


Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service/owners manual if you can't find the first and best tool you ever bought for your Yamaha, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Yamaha XT 600 E... | Answered on Apr 03, 2017


Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service/owners manual if you can't find the first and best tool you ever bought for your Yamaha, despair not, for a mere zero $ you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
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Yamaha XT 600 E... | Answered on Dec 26, 2016


Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Idle circuit and transfer ports clogged.
2. Air fuel mixture adjustment too lean.
3. Pilot jet clogged.
4. Faulty accelerator pump.
5. Float level too low.
6. Float bowl contaminated old fuel, water, dirt, rust, etc.
7. Float bowl vent or overflow tube clogged.
8. Fuel flow to carburetor restricted.
9. Intake manifold leak.
10. The gas cap is not venting properly or fuel tank venting system blocked.
11. Vacuum line from intake manifold to petcock broken, cracked, or not attached, carburetor vent line plugged.
12. Needle and seat stuck closed in the float bowl.
13. Multi carburetors not in sync
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have nice a day.
https://yamahaclub.com/forums/topic/15251-idles-fine-but-dies-upon-throttle
http://www.atvriders.com/vbb/archive/index.php/t-229923.html
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Yamaha XT 600 E... | Answered on Oct 26, 2016


Hi, Anonymous you have a faulty neutral light socket or neutral light switch for this scenario you will need your service/owners manual if you can't find the first and best tool you ever bought for your Yamaha, despair not, for a mere $0 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
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Yamaha XT 600 E... | Answered on Oct 20, 2016


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Yamaha XT 600 E... | Answered on Oct 04, 2015


try checking your valves more than likely they are burnt. or u possibly need a valve job.

Yamaha XT 600 E... | Answered on Apr 19, 2014


Sound like you have a stuck starter. try swatting the stater motor with a block of wood and a rubber mallet. if that doesn't cure it or dislodge it then I would start looking at a bad relay. Follow the battery positive secondary cable. ( usually a smaller gauge wire ) down to see where it attaches too. Find the main relay and I'd be wiling to bet the contacts are stuck or melted from continually trying to start it.

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Yamaha XT 600 E... | Answered on Dec 09, 2013


Hi and welcome to fixya,

Hi and welcome to fixya. The intake manifold should be taken as the last option. Basing from your description of the problem, the most probable case is poor firing. You will need to do a full check on timing, fuel mixture and spark.

Cutting out can be caused by poor fuel. In this case, there might be water on the carburetor reservoir. Drain the carbs. Until the muddy or rusty residue becomes clear. This procedure doesn't require you to open the carbs but if you want to be sure. You can do full carburetor cleaning meaning you clean the jets as well.

The rattling noise can be caused by timing. The timing chain maybe loose or there's a failure of one of cylinders to fire. Since you mentioned it runs fine again, im guessing there's a problem with the spark plug. Make sure you have good plugs. I recommend replacing them all at once to narrow down the problem. Even if the spark plug seem to be fine, the copper core could have been corroded. I recommend replacing it if its more than a year old and have been extensively used.

Make sure you have good fuel and air mixture. It usually is 2.5 to 3.5 turns out from a full close. but if you haven't made changes to it yet, let it be. This will save your plugs from wearing out too soon.

The leaky intake manifold can cause lose of power, and will definitely lean out the mixture. Physically check it to make sure there isn't any cracks or big holes that can let air in.

I hope this info helps.
levibit

Yamaha XT 600 E... | Answered on Oct 29, 2013

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