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2003 Yamaha YZ 250 - Page 4 Questions & Answers
Bike idles, but with a little throttle it jumps to high rev and wont come back down to idle
You need to oil your cables first....They make a gadget to help you do this...it clamps around the end of the cable, and you spray oil into a provided hole for a spray nozzle tube...Then see if the cables are unstuck by turning the throttle grip back and forth for awhile....start it and see if that helped....if not you may need to replace the cable(s)...I doubt that the slide in the carb is hanging up...or valve.If this doesn't work notify me.
Yamaha yz250 suspension settings
There is too much involved to include everything, but I can describe to you what everything does.
You have compression dampening which slows the rate at which the shock or forks can compress. Then you have rebound dampening which slows the rate at which the shock or forks can extend.
The compression adjuster on the rear shock is toward the top, sticking out sideways where the resivoir mounts to the side of the shock. The rebound adjuster can be seen below the swing arm on the side of the shock.
The compression adjusters on the front forks can be seen from the top. (its the one in the center, the other is an air bleed) The rebound adjuster is in the center of the lower fork leg, and can be seen from below the fork.
The settings are measured in the number of "clicks" from seated. More clicks from seated will be softer, and less clicks from seated will be stiffer. The best thing to do is to see where you are now and adjusting from there. I like to write them down as I go. Turn the adjuster clockwise untill it stops and take note of the number of clicks. DO NOT FORCE IT! You should also check your service manual and take note of the standard setting, and also take note of the maximum number of clicks you can go from seated. You dont want to screw the adjusters out farther than the max, shock damage can result.
You might try changing to the standard settings and try adjusting from there. If the bike doesnt ride at least moderately decent at the standard settings, your shock and/or forks may need a rebuild.
Generally speaking more compression dampening in the rear will result in less bottoming but a harsher ride. Less would result in the oppisite.
More rebound dampening in the rear will result in too slow of extension and packing up which will make the bike swap in the whoops, but it will not tend to buck you or throw you into a nose dive over a jump. Less would result in the oppisite.
In the front, more compression dampening will be about the same situation as described above with the shock.
More rebound dampening in the front forks can tend to take pressure off of the front wheel in corners causing washout, but too little can make the bike want to loop out over jumps.
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