20 Most Recent 2008 KTM 200 EXC Questions & Answers

If you get the sevice manual or contact a dealer to get the correct oil amount for your bike, they need to know the model and year, you have to have the forks off the bike. take the fork caps off, take the springs out compress the upper fork tube all the way and add the specified oil. if they also give you the measured amount from the top that's the best way to get both fork oil levels exact. there is a special tool that you set the oil level in millimeters and it sucks out the oil to the right level, but before you do that step after adding the oil always pull and push on the cartage rod several times to remove air from the cartage tube. you will hear the air coming out and you will feel the changes in the cartage rod as the cartage tube fills up with oil and the air is removed.
something i'm confussed on though is if you replaced a seal you would have had to brake down the fork to replace it. you would have poored the oil into a container, cleaned all the internal parts,and used a fork seal driver to install the new seal. part of your question asks where do i put the oil in? thats in the open end of the fork after you have taken off the fork cap. It sounds to me like you only replaced the dust seal on one fork. that is not going to fix your leaking fork. you need to replace the oil seal thats pressed inside of the top fork tube.

You have a bent shift fork and possibly something else going on. The engine will need to come out of the bike. Remove the top end, the flywheel and electrics, the clutch, the shift mechanism and kick starter and a few other parts. THEN you are ready to split the gearbox to get to the crankshaft, gears and shift forks.
You will need an impact driver, flywheel puller, case splitter, torque wrench and factory service manual, plus the normal screwdriver, pliers, etc.. Alternate to the special tools is taking it to the dealer and say "Fix it". I often tell people to take it to the shop just so they don't get into such an involved project and they now have a knowing eye and experienced hands working on the problem.
The repair cost will probably be $800 or so.

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Open the clutch reservoi. Open the bleed screw on the caliper and let the brake fluid run for a while. Close the bleed screw and start the bleed process: Compress the pedal a couple times, then hold it down and open the bleed screw while keeping the pedal depressed. A little bit of fluid should come out. Close the bleed screw and release the pedal. Start again with pressing on the pedal until you notice the pressure building up. If this does not solve the problem ensure that the brake assembly is correct.
If this does not solve the problem then the master cylinder seals have collapsed and need replacing.

adjusting the power valve may not help, as it is shut at lower rpm and only opens at the higher rpm
Someone like Ballards may sell a flywheel weight which may tame it a bit

You need to bleed fluid through by pumping the lever and then opening the bleed valve, until all the air is out of the system.
The bleed valve is where I suspect you were attempting to use the syringe

60:1??? That's extremely lean.
I run 32:1 in all of my two stroke bikes, and then jet to that to clean it up.

Did you ever find your answer?? I have the exact same problem!

i had a similar problem, on a 1990 kx. i used breakdown diagram to work back piece by piece. not sure if they operate the same but you have a verticle and horizontal guvanor rods. maybe the rods arnt flush and clean or free of dirt

It is something that you can do yourself, but you will need some special tools in order to do it. I'd recomend purchasing a spanner wrench, seal drivers, and an owner's manual if you don't have one to do the job. The cost of these tools, and you can't do the job without them, pretty much kills any money saving over having a KTM dealership to do it, but once you have them, you can do the job yourself on yours or other WP 48mm forks. They give you all the steps in your owner's manual. If you don't have one of those, get one. It spells out how to perform a lot of maintenance jobs that will save you money in the long run.

Hi and welcome to FixYa,

Offhand, it appears that you have an air leak (not a vacuum leak). This could be caused by:

• loose, detached rubber coupling from the airbox to the air intake;
• torn, defective, loose air filter/cleaner;
• improperly sealed cover of the airbox;
• air filter was replaced with an aftermarket such as K&N and no rejetting, air/fuel mix adjustment and exhaust tuning done.

There are instances when the electrical has an issue and it affects the electronics, specifically the CDI at higher RPMs.

Would appreciate an update based on the above. Good luck and thank you for using FixYa.

This is 1994 specific:

Oil = SS-8 10W
Amount = 15 ounces per fork leg (135mm down)
15 ounces or 460cc.

That would be like riding a fixed wheel bike.Think about how you will stop and start. Only hydraulic fluid will leak. Bad idea!

Question edited for clarity. That sounds like it is just a bad connection somewhere or possibly a bad switch. Remove the battery leads and clean the lead contacts and battery posts with a wire brush. Smear with Vaseline and reconnect. Remove the starter leads and do the same. Then it could be the Starter Relay https://www.google.com/search?q=ktm+450+sx-f+starter+relay+location Or Starter Button https://www.google.com/search?q=ktm+450+sx-f+starter+button+replacement ..

personnaly I would replace cylinder with new OEM

All dirt bikes have a VIN. It is on the steering neck. https://www.google.com/search?q=vin+on+my+ktm+300 ..

Have you checked battery connections. Run switch in the correct position? Checked spark plug for debris? Just thinking out loud..

Drain oil. Use degreaser to clean area. Use JB Weld & allow to set up properly before adding oil.

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Hi, try to see this link and looking for the manual that you need. https://www.pdfmotomanual.com/manuales/ktm/eng I hope to give you an help. Luca

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Hi, most likely your cdi unit or ignition coil needs replacing.