20 Most Recent 2004 KTM EXC 200 Questions & Answers

Well you solved you own problem you need to replace the return spring.

I would do a compression test first. (Throttle wide open)
A knock could be from a worn piston, worn piston pin bearing, or hopefully not...a bad connecting rod lower bearing.
You might be able to remove the exhaust pipe and look into the cylinder to see if the piston looks "scratched." This is a sign of dirt, or overheated.

There is a bit of directions on how to change the oil. I will give you a link to a site that has pictures with step-by-step directions that will work for any bike fork.

http://www.bluepoof.com/motorcycles/howto/svs_fork_oil/

If you have any more questions, feel free to ask..

just wondering if anyone can help me. I bought my son a second hand for the christmas of 06 (2005 model). He has not used it since last summer as I have not had the time to take him out on it we both tried starting it the other day without success. I am not a technical man and I cant find anything on starting it. We didnt use the choke, but I am just looking for some help to have it up and running for him, as he has been deprived of it. Thanks very much lads, he and I will both appreciate it!! ,I would pull the plug to make sure its not fouled. If it is then replace it with a new one. Then try starting it. As far as choke operation, pull the choke out, start the bike let i idle for a minute or two, push the choke back in and continue to warm up the motor.,,,

Thank you for contacting FixYa with your inquiry.
This is not to bad of a parts replacement. The seal on the gear selector gets a lot of down thrust and has a tendency to wear to a slightly oval shape and leak.
The easiest way to fix is remove the gear selector lever (Mark the position with an awl or nail). Then remove the side case. Ease it off so you don't damage the gasket. You should now be able to pry the old one out with a screw driver. Lightly coat the new one with Loctite bearing mount and gently tap back into place. Replace the gasket if you tore or damaged the old side case gasket.
This should be a simple and inexpensive fix.
If you need more assistance let us know,
Best regards,
TF

The fork seals need replaced you have yo really know what you are doing to do this job yourself

Hi, i presume from your thread you have removed the bolt securing the damper to the leg at the axle end, and you are having a problem removing the stancion from the leg, normaly you will have to remove the fork dust seal from the top of the fork leg, you will then expose the main fork seal which will be secured inside the fork leg by a clip,you will need to remove this, as the bushing inside the fork. Is secured to the stancion underneath the fork seal the only way to separate this, once the seal clip is removed, fasten the lower leg in a vice, warning fasten in the axle area and not the tube area to save damage, once secure push the fork tube all the way to the bottom, then pull up sharpley, repaeting this action will give a hammer effect from the inside of the fork, when reasembling before fixing the damper unit replace the fork stanchion, bushing, washer and seal, holding the tube. Upermost will reduce the risk of damage while replacing the seal in the moving area

yes it is starving for fuel. please put in a larger jet. you may want to go to the 3erd next higher one. remember you can add more air from the mixture screw.

try mixing 50:1 with synthetic it will not hurt rings 32:1 is pretty thick!!!on all two strokes i mix 50 to one never have had problem!Best of Luck to You!!!

G'day jarm.
Hope i'm not to late to respond.
First of all push the valve or control flap as ktm calls it,upwards through the exaust port,turn the pin a quarter of a turn,you can do this with a metric 5x40 bolt,then......SHAAABOOOMM.that valve should come straight.Installation???.Well i guess you can see how it works now,basically the reverse of removal,Just make sure to lube the pin,insert until it engages the flap,then rotate it a quarter(1/4)of a turn.The flat section on the pin must face out toward the exaust port.
Good luck and hope i could help
J STRONGARMS...hehee ..ha haaa!
regards..Silleydog.

It takes a hydraulic press to separate a crankshaft. Beyond that, you must have twin dial guages when reassembling the crank so that the two halves are set in correct alighnment. NOT a job for amatures.

That would be like riding a fixed wheel bike.Think about how you will stop and start. Only hydraulic fluid will leak. Bad idea!

Question edited for clarity. That sounds like it is just a bad connection somewhere or possibly a bad switch. Remove the battery leads and clean the lead contacts and battery posts with a wire brush. Smear with Vaseline and reconnect. Remove the starter leads and do the same. Then it could be the Starter Relay https://www.google.com/search?q=ktm+450+sx-f+starter+relay+location Or Starter Button https://www.google.com/search?q=ktm+450+sx-f+starter+button+replacement ..

personnaly I would replace cylinder with new OEM

All dirt bikes have a VIN. It is on the steering neck. https://www.google.com/search?q=vin+on+my+ktm+300 ..

Have you checked battery connections. Run switch in the correct position? Checked spark plug for debris? Just thinking out loud..

Drain oil. Use degreaser to clean area. Use JB Weld & allow to set up properly before adding oil.

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Hi, try to see this link and looking for the manual that you need. https://www.pdfmotomanual.com/manuales/ktm/eng I hope to give you an help. Luca

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Hi, most likely your cdi unit or ignition coil needs replacing.