Hi Kee this only applies if your charging system is functioning properly if it's ok then perform the following tests:
1. Fill acid type batteries to proper levels.
2. Charge battery overnight at 1-2 amps you need 12.5 volts or better after charging.
3. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
4. Hook up battery positive cable, then with your multimeter on the milliamp scale connect one lead to the negative battery post and the other lead to the ground cable. Meter should read 3 milliamps or less, 10 milliamps with a radio, 15 milliamps with radio and CB. If your multimeter reads higher you need to isolate the circuit by pulling fuses and circuit breakers one at a time and observe multimeter for a drop in amperage then get out your test light and track down the short in that circuit.
5. Hook up the multimeter to the battery set it to DC volts and start the engine if multimeter falls below 9.0 volts while cranking you need to perform a proper load test on the battery and replace if necessary.
6. With the engine running at 3600 RPM, the battery should read 14.3-14.7 volts if not continue tests.
7. Unplug the voltage regulator from the alternator at crankcase by the front of the primary cover.
8. To test voltage regulator go to https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F8EjV0IjW9Q
9. With the multimeter set to the ohms scale, with one lead grounded, touch an alternator pin ohmmeter should read infinity, if not replace the stator.
10. With both leads touching alternator pins multimeter should read 0.1 to 0.2 ohms on 1989 and later models. 0.2 to 0.4 ohms 1988 and earlier models, if not replace the stator.
11. With the multimeter set on AC volts scale, both leads touching alternator pins multimeter should read 16 to 20 volts AC for every 1000 RPM'S 1989 and later and 19 to 26 volts AC for every 1000 RPMS. If not replace the rotor.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day. Thread Battery draw drain Internet BMW Riders Substitutes for BMW Parts BMW 1100 RT Repair Manual http://www.ketchum.org/BMWmc/R1100.pdf BMW Parts Microfische
Hi Billy, in order to check out any main system electrical circuit, you have to start with a fully charged battery 12.5 volts or better, and be able to pass a load test if necessary.
1. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
2. Check the voltage drop at the battery when you hit the starter button, anything below 9 volts you might have a faulty battery.
3. Check voltage at the battery with the bike running at 3,600 RPM should be 14.3 to 14.7 volts. If you are not getting these numbers, you might have a faulty voltage regulator.
4. Make sure voltage regulator is grounded and functioning properly, watch the video below on how to test a voltage regulator.
5. Unplug the connector to the alternator and hook your multimeter leads to the alternator (pin/socket selection does not matter) set the multimeter to AC volts, at an idle the meter should read 16 to 20 volts AC. at 2,000 RPM 32 to 40 AC volts, 3,000 RPM 48 to 60 AC volts. If you are not getting these numbers, you may have a faulty rotor, follow step 6
6. Set the multimeter to OHM'S, connect one lead to the alternator (any pin/socket) and the other to a ground, the meter should read infinity. Connect both leads to the alternator meter should read 0.1 to 0.2 OHM'S. If you are not getting these numbers, you have a bad stator.
7. Check all wiring in the charging circuit for worn or chaffed spots and all wiring connectors in the circuit for corroded, broken, or loose pins/sockets, which is the # 1 offender.
For more information about your issue please visit the websites below. Good luck and have a nice day. 1982 BMW R65 Charging System Diagnostics Part 1 1982 BMW R65 Charging System Diagnostics Part 2 1993 2000 BMW R1100RT R1100RS Service Manual Moto Data Project http://www.ketchum.org/BMWmc/R1100.pdf Hints and advice for BMW bike motorcycle owners K1 K75 K100 K1100 bulb...
depends. if anything that loose is not so good.but some brake are design to have something loose.u can check your brake sometime there is a bolt holding your brake calliper ,cover /wrapped with a small rubber tube or washer.because some brakes there is a gap and allow your brake calliper to move a little when it brake for full brake performance.
remember that when you put hid. you have to buy the whole package thats why they made it like that. so only the hid bulb wont work with out the right amp. when you have both hid bulb and the amp. you will connect the amp to your battery n one of the cables to your head light positive wire. this will allow you to still use your switch from your handle to now turn on n off the hid. also you will have to buy a hid bulb made for your bike, do not buy any hid on the street even if they say that is universal n all that **** bcuz its not. buy the one for your bike model so it fits perfect and it locks by it self, like if it was a factory bulb. So you connect the bulb to your hid amp plug and one cable from the amp to the positive wire that comes from the bike to the factory bulb and the other one to your battery.
If you run low tire pressure you can get cupping on the sides of the tires. Tire pressure needs to be checked regularly and kept at the recommended pressure or above. Another cause of tire cupping can be bad or loose steering head bearings. Loose bearings will cause the wheel to wobble when decelerating just like low tire pressure. It can sometimes be detected just by turning the handle bar from side to side. If it feels like the steering wants to lock in the driving straight position or you feel ripples or bumps while you turn the bar from side to side you need new steering head bearings and races.
This is common on all bikes of this era. A new battery will resolve this problem for a while until it starts to drain down after 6 months to a year or so. The problem is the ABS system needs a good solid 12.5V or better to work at start up. This is the same time the starter also needs good power which puts a heavy load on the battery. They both end up competing with one another and the ABS computer creates a fault but the bike still starts. By starting it again and again helps because the battery is quickly charging each time you start. So, a new battery can help or put your bike on a trickle charge from time to time. The problem will never be fully resolved. You need to eliminate the fault before riding or your ABS system is non functional.
hi this could be your battery starting to die, what you need to do is get the battery checked, if that is ok, try getting the alternator/generator checked as well this could also produce the transmission fault...hope this helps please vote thanks
There is a simple way to fix it as I've discovered. Start your bike, if lights are flashing ride for a mile or two applying the rear brake a few times. Stop the bike and place on centre stand. switch off motor then restart. Your flashing lights should have gone. Why the flashing happens is if you ride and use your rear brake rarely and then your bike sits for a day or two without use your rear brake assembly fully retracts, ie pads away from disc and ABS gizzmos inactive. The ABS sensor unit then reports extended non use pattern to the onboard 'brain' which activates the warning mode of flashing lights. This has worked for me several times over the last 5 years when its occured. Full ABS operations return. Tried it on a mates bike and it fixed same problem on his.