20 Most Recent 1993 Harley Davidson FXR Super Glide - Page 6 Questions & Answers

You have an adjuster nut that you have to tighten just until you don't have any freeplay in the bearing and then the upper triple tree goes on. The pinch bolt tightens to 21-27 foot pounds. The fork stem nut tightens to 35-40 foot pounds according to the manual that I have here. I've found that if you torque the nut that tight, it will tighten the adjustment of the steering head bearings and they'll start to "count". When a bearing is "counting", it is too tight and you can feel it bump from one roller to the next as you turn the front end. If it starts this, you'll have to loosen the fork nut and back off on the adjuster and then retighten the fork nut. Recheck for bearing adjustment. Not "counting" and no shake in the steering head. It's touchy so be patient. I've had to simply tighten the fork stem nut until I got the right tension and disregard the torque setting as long as it felt like it was tight enough not to come loose.

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Steve

Take your battery out and have it load tested. It sounds like you have one or more cells shorting out under a load. A 12 volt battery is made up of six 2 volt cells. The output voltage and current delivery of a battery with shorted cells in it depends on how many cells are shorted and where they are located within the battery. This is the most obvious thing causing the problem. If the starter is drawing the battery down that low, it must be drawing a tremendous amount of current and it would probably be burning the battery cables with that large of a current draw. If you have 300km on a top end job with no problems, I doubt you have a problem with that. A problem in that area would have shown up well before now. Although, a fresh top end will put more strain on the starter and battery due to the increase in compression. Check the battery first.

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Steve

It sounds like your shifter pawl spring is broken. This is more common on the five speed transmissions that anyone would like to admit. It is a major job to replace. You must take the primary drive off the bike, the front belt pulley, and then pull the trapdoor of the transmission with both shafts and their gears out to change the shifter pawl shaft. You may be able to change just the small shifter pawl spring without pulling the guts out of the transmission but I always replace the entire assembly, shaft included.

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Steve

Now,I'm not sure because I don't work on bikes 2000 and later. Why? Because they have a ECM control in them. The ECM draws a certain amount of current. This should be in the milliamp range and will not pull a good battery down for many months. If you want to measure the drain, disconnect one of the battery cables. Using a Digital Volt Ohm Meter, set it up to measure AMPs. Touch one lead to the battery post and the other lead to the battery cable. If the meter reads a negative number, swap the leads. It will read how many amps the ECM is drawing. It will probably be something like 0.0XX amps. If it's over 1 amp, I'd suspect a problem. But, keep in mind what I said to begin with, I don't work on these bikes.

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Steve

No, the arrows face towards the front of the engine. This is because the combustion chamber has a flat "squish area" instead of the older hemispherical design of earlier years. On the earlier Shovelheads and Ironhead Sportsters, you had to look for the ridge on the piston pin boss on the underside or the eyebrow for the intake valve. Not so on the Evolution engines. ARROWS GO TOWARD THE FRONT OF THE ENGINE.

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Steve

Look at your right handle bar grip. Just below it there should be two cables coming out and running behind the fuel tank. The cable on the front side is the throttle cable. The one on the backside is called the idle cable.

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Steve

Your problem is not with the ignition timing. If it were, both cylinders would be misfiring since both cylinders would be out of time. I'd suggest running a compression test on the engine. Compare the reading of the misfiring cylinder with the other cylinder. There should no more than 10% difference. But, the clue to the problem is in your description of what your bike is doing. You say "It will only idle with the choke fully pulled". This is telling me that something is wrong with the carb. I would say that your slow speed jet or the some of the fuel passageways to the idle port of the carb is stopped up. If you're still running the stock carb, with the float bowl off, look at the main jet that is screwed into the main jet holder. Off to one side there is a hole with the slow jet screwed into it. The jet is deep in the hole. Using a narrow bladed screwdriver take this jet out. Hold it up to the light and check to make sure it's open. Also, find the idle fuel port on the bottom side of the carb throat on the engine side of the throttle plate. Get you a can of that pressurized carb cleaner and put the plastic straw into the nozzle. Put the straw into the hole where the jet came from and squirt the carb cleaner into the hole while watching the idle fuel port. You should see the carb cleaner come out the port. If not, the passageway may be stopped up. If this is the case, you'll have to drill the anti-tamper plug out of the carb and remove the idle mixture screw to clean the port out with a direct shot of the carb cleaner. If you are not familiar with the carb and what I'm talking about, you'd be better off to take the carb to someone that is thoroughly familiar with the carb. If you want to attempt this yourself, with the float bowl off, look just to the rear of the float bowl for what looks like a round plug directly below the idle fuel port. Using a small drill bit, drill through the plug. Just drill deep enough to go through the plug. The brass idle mixture screw is under the plug and if you drill too hard, you'll damage the screw when the drill goes through the plug. Once you get a hole drilled in the plug, thread a small screw into the hole and pull the plug out. Then you can access the idle mixture screw. You can take the screw out but be careful not to lose the very small washer and the o-ring in the bottom of the hole. Spray the carb cleaner directly into the hole and make sure that it is clear. When you reinstall the mixture screw, put the washer and the o-ring on the end of the idle mixture screw and start the screw into the hole. Turn the screw until it gently bottoms out and back it back out about three turns. This is a good starting point. When the engine warms up, adjust the idle mixture screw for the highest, smoothest idle.

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Steve

I would say that the two cases were not properly sealed when they were assembled if that's where they are leaking. Before the two case halves are assembled, there should be a bead of silicone sealant put around the inside lip so that they seal oil tight when they are put together and torqued. Of course, the case halves must be a matched set as well. There should be some numbers on the case, usually a four digit number stamped on each half of the case down on the bottom side. Make certain the case bolts are torqued correctly. Now, a lot of times when the cam chest cover (nosecone) leaks, it will run along the bottom of the cases to the center line and then drip from there making it appear that the cases themselves are leaking. Clean the area thoroughly and then go for a short ride or stand the bike up as straight as possible without it falling over. Watch for the drip in the later case.

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Steve

That's because it doesn't use the old style flasher that cars and bikes of the past used to use. It has a Turn Signal Canceling Unit. It is a "black box" that is about a half in thick, and inch or so wide and about three inches long. There's a large plug on one end of it and a bolt hole in the middle. It's probably located under the tank on your FXR.

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Steve

Go to Badland's website and download the instructions. http://www.badlandsmotorcycleproducts.com/2008/Instructions.htm

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Steve

I do not know sorry ..But I have gotten great help at harleytalking.con '';';'

remove the starter and the home plate shape cover. the plate covers the solenoid and can have carbon build up on those two contacts. It maybe fairly worn also and replacing is needed instead
Local starter rebuilding shops can repair this for you

Check the battery. Coming off the postive post is a large cable and a smaller wire. Follow the smaller wire to see if there is a fuse inline. The fuse is probably blown.

Good Luck
steve

Check you ground cable and all ground connections. If they are corrosive or loose this can cause the problem that you state is happening. I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/al_e83b1941f9c0f302

I have a schematic of a '93 FLHS if that will help. Contact me at [email protected] and I'll send it to you as a jpeg. Remind me of what you need.

Steve

asasd

Check for spark, fuel. Is the kill switch in the run position?
If you have spark spray a tiny bit of starter fluid into the carb and it should hit.
If it does hit you have a fuel problem

Your 1984 FXR has the mid mount shifter on it. You can change over to a forward shifter and eliminate you mid mount shifter. To do this, you must pull the outer primary, the clutch and primary chain assembly and the inner primary to get the shifer shaft out of the primary. You must pull the inner primary off to get the old shift shaft out. You can put a plain inspection cover on the outer primary but you've got to close the hole in the backside of the inner primary. I use a 1/2" freeze plug that you can get at almost any auto parts house. Just measure the hole to make sure of the size you need. I'm not out in the shop or I could tell you for sure. Coat the freeze plug (welch plug) with some non-hardening PermaTex and drive it into the hole. Should you ever wish to change it back to stock, simply drive the plug out and you're back in business.

Good Luck
Steve

What you are hearing is the compensator sprocket bottoming out upon start-up. Inside your primary there is a dampening device before power is ransfered to the clutch. It is designed to give you a smoother power delivery when you let out the clutch. So its not so "grabby". Ever since 2006 when H-D first introduced the cruize dive this has been a common complaint. In truth, this noise on start-up IS normal. Higher octne fuel will not help in any way.It will only cost more.

To set the timing on your 88 Evo powered FXR, you want to first identify the timing marks on the flywheel. Raise the rear wheel of your bike off the ground and secure it so that it won't fall over. Remove the spark plugs and shift the transmission into high gear. Remove the Timing Hole plug on the left side of the engine.

Now, to find the Top Dead Center mark, insert a plastic drinking straw, or something else that will bend but not break, into the front spark plug hole. With the straw touching the piston, "bump" the rear wheel in the normal direction of rotation until the straw indicates the piston is at TDC. Look in the timing hole and you should see a vertical line indicating TDC. Now, start "bumping" the rear wheel in reverse. You'll come to a mark that looks like the figure 8 laid over on it's side, a lazy 8. This is the 20?° Before Top Dead Center mark that is used by the dealer. Continue "bumping" the rear wheel until you see a "dot" on the flywheel. This is the Front Cylinder Advanced Timing Mark. This is the mark you want to see in the timing hole and represents 35?° BTDC.

Now, temporarily reinstall the timing plug leaving it loose. Shift the transmission into neutral and reinstall the spark plugs. Connect an automotive type timing light to the front spark plug wire and a battery. Start the engine and allow it to warm up a bit. Bring the engine up to 2200-2500 RPM. Remove the timing hole and shine the light in the hole. NOTE: A Harley engine generates a huge amount of crankcase pressure. This pressure will blow out of the open timing hole with great force and will also blow an oil mist out. DO NOT GET YOUR EYES DIRECTLY IN FRONT OF THE HOLE. You can purchase a clear timing plug to install in the hole but it doesn't work too well. Another device called "Clean Time" works better.

At 2500 or higher , the "dot" should be in the exact center of the hole. If it isn't, but you can still see it in the hole, you're within about plus or minus 2?° of being correct. If you need to adjust the timing, remove the cover over the timer cavity hole in the "nosecone" of the engine on the right side of the engine. If it's still got the original rivets in it, you'll have to drill them out. DO NOT USE ORDINARY RIVETS TO SECURE THE PLATE. These are special rivets. Either get replacements at a dealer or put screws into the plate. You'll see the timing sensor pickup and the plate it sits on. Loosen the stand off bolts and you can rotate the plate clockwise to advance the timing, counterclockwise to ****** the timing. If the "dot" is at the forward part of the hole, the timing is retarded and needs to be advanced. "Dot" to the rear, timing is advanced and needs to be retarded.

Now, if you cannot see the mark indicating that the timing is way off and you can't see the "dot", you'll need to use a timing light with a "manual advance knob" and use the TDC mark instead. Set the timing light's knob to 35?°. With the engine running at elevated RPM, shine the light at the hole. Adjust the knob back and forth until you see the TDC mark dead in the center of the hole. Read the dial at the knob and see what it indicates. This is your actual ignition timing. If it's above 35?°, your timing is fast and should be retarded and Vice versa. Your timing should be set at 35?° BTDC.

Good LuckSteve