20 Most Recent 2008 Buell XB12XT Questions & Answers

Have your intake gaskets replaced. They are leaking. It Will stop the hunt and surge and it will start and idle good.

There are bolts on the front cylinder exhaust port and the rear, the exhaust can has a few under the bike too.

Hello and welcome to FixYa!
You may just have a system failure. As a first course of action, I strongly suggest that you remove the positive battery connector. Let it sit for atleast 5mins. then reconnect it again. This will reset the system and can get your bike to it's normal operation.
If the problem still persists, I suggest that you have it checked using a diagnostic tool to know the fault code. Though I suspect that you have a faulty throttle sensor but it's wise to have it diagnosed first before replacement.
Hope this helps and thank you for using FixYa! Have a good one!

1.Get your supplies ready and expose your engine 2.Unscrew the Oil Filler Cap 3.Remove the Oil Drain Plug 4.Remove and Replace the Crush Washer 5.Clean the Oil Drain Plug 6.Remove the Oil Filter 7.Remove and Clean Plastic Mesh Filter 8.Lubricate the O-ring of the New Filter and Attach it to the Engine 9.Motorcycle Oil Change - Replace Oil Drain Plug & Plastic Mesh Filter Pour Oil 10.Check the Oil Level,,

The rear is a bit tricky, but you can get to it by removing the entire airbox assembly and by using a wobble socket on an extension. Even then it takes a little patience. Be careful when you reinstall them, as they can easily cross-thread. I recommend you use a piece of rubber hose and slide it over the back of the spark plug and feed it in by hand rather than the socket. This way you can get a better feel and prevent it from stripping.

Before you buy a salvage bike you must see it in person. To remove any broken bolt you use what is called an easy out, you use a reversed drill to drill a pilot hole then screw in the easy our to back out the bolt. Don't believe the name this is a pain in the ****. As for the auction I have an dealers license so I go to a lot of auctions. Salvage auctions are usally open to the public and most people don't have a clue what a vehicle is worth at auction. It is also a common practice fot the insurance company to have a shill drive up the price. DO your home work and have a set price you won't go over and stick to it. Remeber in most states you will allways have a salvage title on this bike making it worth far less money at resale.

Manufacturer Spark Plug Gap A spark plug part number might fit hundreds of engines and although the factory will typically set a gap to a pre-selected setting this gap may not be optimum for your particular engine and may not take into account modifications that you may have made to the engine. Spark Plug Gap – Bigger is Better The larger the spark kernel that is generated by a spark jumping the electrode gap, the more likely and complete the fuel burn will be, and the smoother the engine will run. That is, the larger the spark gap that’s exposed to the air/fuel mixture, the easier it is to initiate combustion. This translates directly into improved throttle response. So, the larger the plug gap you can run (without misfires) the better. Unfortunately, the greater the plug gap, the higher the voltage requirement to jump the gap. The difficulty lies in that, any added gap creates more strain on the other ignition parts. Coils, for example, may not have enough stored energy to cross the gap, creating a misfire. Old plug wire insulation can break down at the higher voltages required to fire a larger gap. The stock Ducati coils are good enough to fire a 0.044-inch plug gap. Any gap larger than this will likely result in more misfires (there’s always a few) and subsequent power loss. The correct new plug gap is specified at about 0.024-inch (0.6mm). But, remember, as a plug wears, the gap opens up further. If you use conventional sparkplugs, start with the recommended gap and try opening the gap up in 0.002-inch increments. You should note a progressively smoother throttle response if not more power. When the bike begins to lose power, go back 0.001 - 0.002 inch and this will be your optimum gap. I don't know offhand what the DCPR8E plug comes pre-gapped at but as a good rule-of-thumb, if you go more than 0.008 inch over the out-of-the-box gap you won’t maintain parallel surfaces between ground and the center electrodes. So if you reach that point, change to a plug that starts at a larger gap. The NGK dash 9 series starts at a 0.9mm (0.035-inch) gap, and is used for that reason. If you run iridium or platinum electrode plugs, start with the 0.035-inch gap that they are shipped with. Don't run them at smaller gaps or you'll loose throttle response. If you have a older bike, you may arc over the plug wires before you can reach the optimum plug gap. If the spark plug wires have inadequate insulation, the wire cannot maintain a high enough voltage across the insulation and will arc to ground before firing the plug gap. The factory spark plug leads are stranded wire covered with an EPDM jacket and although the wire itself will last a long time, the jacket will start to break down after a couple of years which is why most good aftermarket wire is insulated with silicone rubber. If this is the case, replace the stock spark plug wires with a set of Magnecor or similar quality wires. This will allow running a larger plug gap without a concern for insulating the higher voltage needed to jump the gap. Ducati 916 Magnecor #2549 wires, for example, run $67. Ignition Amplifiers Running a larger gap is the main benefit of installing an ignition amplifier, such as the one sold by Evoluzione for Ducati's. The Evoluzione ignition amplifier increases the primary voltage to the stock Ducati coil from the existing battery voltage to either 16 volt or 18 volt (user selectable). A higher primary voltage means you get a higher secondary voltage applied to the wires and plugs. The higher the secondary voltage - the larger gap it will jump across. Evoluzione recommends that for best throttle response, you run a 0.060 inch plug gap. One reservation that I have about ignition amplifiers as a group is that they could possibly cause overheating and eventual failure of the stock coils or wires. This reliability consideration has to be balanced against improved performance. An independent test by Road Racing World magazine on a GSXR 1000 saw only about a 0.2 HP improvement, but throttle response is the major benefit.,,,

You'll get a lot of opinions on what tire pressure to run but the correct tire pressure for you is not a matter of polling other rider's opinion. Here are the basics you'll need to decide for yourself. Start with the BIKE (not the tire *see below) manufacturer's recommendation in the owners manual or under-seat sticker. This is the number they consider to be the best balance between handling grip and tire wear. Further if you're running alloy wheels on poor pavement, consider adding 2 psi to the recommended tire pressure just to reduce the likelihood of pothole damage. Just as you would for a car, increase the pressure 2 psi or so for sustained high speed operation (or 2-up riding) to reduce rolling friction and casing flexing. Check your tire pressure regularly, as they say. In order to get optimum handling a tire has to get to its optimum temperature which is different for each brand of tire. Unless you own a tire pyrometer that will measure tire temperature directly, you’ll need to measure it indirectly by checking tire pressure since tire pressure increases with tire temperature. Tire temperature is important to know because too much flexing of the casing of an under-inflated tire for a given riding style and road will result in overheating resulting in less than optimum grip. Over-pressurizing a tire will reduce casing flexing and prevent the tire from getting up to the optimum operating temperature and performance again suffers. Sliding and spinning the tires also increase tire temperatures from friction heating. A technique for those wanting to get the most out of their tires on the street is to use the 10/20% rule. First check the tire pressure when the tire is cold. Then take a ride on your favorite twisty piece of road. Then, measure the tire pressure immediately after stopping. If the pressure has risen less than 10% on the front or 20% on the rear, the rider should remove air from the tire. So for example, starting at a front tire pressure of 32.5 psi should bring you up to 36 psi hot. Once you obtain this pressure increase for a given rider, bike, tire, road and road temperature combination, check the tire pressure again while cold and record it for future reference. Each manufacturer is different. Each tire model is different. A tire design that runs cooler needs to run a lower pressure (2-3 psi front) to get up to optimum temperature. The rear tire runs hotter than the front tire, road and track. So the rear tire cold-to-hot increase is greater. Dropping air pressure has the additional side effect of scrubbing more rubber area. When I used the tire pressures recommended by Ducati (32.5F/36R) for my 916 on my favorite road, I got exactly 10/20% on a set of Bridgestone BT-012SS. So I guess I'm an average rider and the BT-012SS runs at an average operating temperature compared to other brands. For the track you'll have to drop the cold tire pressures an additional 10/20%. Track operation will get tires hotter (increasing the cold-to-hot pressure range) so starting at say 32/30 psi now should bring you up to the same temperature (and pressure) that 35/39 psi gave you for the street. Don't even think about running these low track cold pressures on the street. Finally, dropping tire pressures on street tires for track use has its limitations, so street compound tires on the track often get too hot and go beyond sticky to greasy. That's why you have race tires. Race tire compounds are designed for severe operation at these higher temperatures for a limited number of thermal cycles. On the other hand, a race tire on the street usually won't get up to the appropriate temperature for good performance. At street speeds, the race compound often won't perform as well as a street tire. Finally, a tire that is inflated to a lower pressure than recommended will have a tire profile that will sag slightly in the middle. This sagging profile results in increased rolling friction and causes the tires to run hotter. This will reduce tire life but it will also increase tire traction or grip. Depending upon racing conditions and the overall setup of the bike the increased grip may be necessary to be competitive even at the cost of tire life. * Tire Manufacturer's Recommendations Japanese sportbikes seem to have an extra 4-6 psi specified for their tires, compared to the equivalent Ducati. Why? A tire manufacturer will recommend a pressure that is a balance between tire life and grip. When a bike manufacturer is developing a new model their test riders will determine what pressures in their opinion, best suit the new model. The recommended pressures are the best for general street (not track) riding, so you can increase grip somewhat by reducing pressures. But to answer the question about higher recommended tire pressures for Japanese in-line fours versus Ducati twins - in-line fours heat up their tires more than a twin so a higher starting pressure is needed to prevent overheating the tires, particularly the rear tire. Years ago, superbike racers discovered that it was easier to modulate the power to prevent wheelspin on the Ducati V-twins than it was to do the same on the Japanese inline-fours. This is because there is a longer interval (in terms of both time and crankshaft rotation) between cylinders firing, which gives the rear tire a break - time to recover traction and match its speed to that of the motorcycle. More recently, more sophisticated traction control systems have been tried to reduce tire temperatures, improve tire life and lap times,,,

Bowden cables like your clutch cable work on the law of the lever. Think of lifting up a heavy weight hanging on a rope using a lever balanced on a fulcrum. The rope is in tension and the fulcrum is in compression. To adjust the point of lift you could either vary the length of the rope or adjust the height of the fulcrum. The outer sleeve of your clutch cable is made out of plastic-coated steel, square-section wire and is resistant to compression forces along its length. This outer sleeve works as your fulcrum and, because it is flexible, lets you put it where it is needed - at the end of your handlebar. The cable inner is like the rope in the lever example and resists only stretching forces. It is threaded down through that snaking fulcrum back to where control movement is needed. The cable adjusters let you fine tune the length of the fulcrum, and therefore the lift range of the inner cable.,,,

Front brakes are locked up

It appears to be a known issue. https://www.google.com/search?q=2002+Buell+Blast+oil+leak ..

Try these checks. First you can't check compression by listening to an engine. With the ignition OFF sit on the bike as normal with the kick stand up. Put it into First gear, release the clutch lever and try to roll the bike forwards about a bike's length. If the bike rolls less than a shoe length then refuses to roll that is good compression on the engine. Black smoke out of the exhaust suggests there was too much fuel being sent to the cylinder. If it is cranking and trying to start it suggests it is still a fuel issue. This time possibly not enough fuel. Check the fuel filter is clean. Replace it if your not sure as they are not normally expensive to buy. Check the air filter as well. A dirty air filter can affect the engine more than you think. Try these checks and use the comment button below if you need more help.

Does it feel like the clutch is working properly but when you put it in gear A doesn't go anywhere?

NO FILE PUMP RELAY AS FAR AS I CAN FIND OUT

CHECK THE GASKETS BUT IF I WAS YOU I TAKE IT TO A MECHANIC ASAP.

It sounds like the spark plug hole in the head may be damaged. Can you get the plug out to check? Plugs should always be removed when the engine is cold, especially with aluminium cylinder heads. If you can get the plug out and the threads are damaged you can a shop to put in a Heli-Coil to repair the threads.

Older Buell Blast, mine, has a lever toward the middle of the seat, accessed from the wheel well. Pull the lever toward the right (front brake) side of the bike. Lift the back of the seat near the tail on both sides and pull back to slip the front tongue of the seat back away from the gas tank. Found the above........any good?

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