20 Most Recent 2009 kawasaki Z750 Questions & Answers

I can't help you directly as I have not worked on this bike. I will suggest to you, as was suggested to me by a dear friend many hears ago ... he said this: "It was designed to work, to go together. It was together and it has to be able to go back together." Keep working on it after you take a little break. The light will come on and it will fall into place. You will say to yourself," Why did I have any trouble with this?"Thanks for your interest in FixYa.com

only one wire is 12v other is neg , coil fires when the neg is grounded not sure if your bike has pulse generator this sends signal for coil to ground at correct time look on you tube for coil test primary and secondary there are two dual fire coils on that bike

sounds like bent sifter forks

Error Code # 34 - Exhaust butterfly valve actuator sensor malfunction, wiring open or short. Error Code # 35 - Immobilizer amplifier malfunction (Equipped Models) These are the exact error codes from the service manual itself. Good luck.

Remove it and connect it to a battery charger. That should do it!

The other one probably goes to the reserve tank which is sometimes separate from the main tank.

If they are KAWASAKI pads, they should be fine.

dude your engine should have about five or six main bolts holding it in place unless you know what your upto would take it to a dealer without driving it to far but as an extreme temporary solution put a jack under the engine and slowly lift it up place the jack under the weaker side ie side the engine dropped also if ya get the engine up to put the bolt back in run the engine for a bit to make sure nothing else has been affected by the drop and smell for exhaust fumes coming from header pipes best of luck mate but do take to a dealer for a check if it is second hand

take the carbs off and clean them out ,the idle jets sound like they are a bit choked up ,this is caused where its not used every day and the petrol dries out leaving a white film which builds up and eventually blocks the jets

STANDERD RULE ANY ENGINE 10%-15% BUT THATS LOW MILAGE UNLESS YOU SEE A REALY BIG DIFFENCE ON ONE CYLINDER YOUR PROBELY OK IF ITS A LITTLE MORE AS LONG AS THERE ALL FOUR CLOSE IN PSI AND THAT DEPENDES ON YOUR COMPRESSITION RAITO BORE STROKE AND TYPE OF RINGS

Originally Posted by whitehendrix - your ECU has a reduced voltage input from a resistor in the key switch's contact block. if that resistor burns up (common, unfortunately) you'll have 12 volts everwhere, and no power on the gray wire from the keyswitch harness. that gray wire has less than 12 volts on it (i can't remember exactly what the voltage is). this will cause you to *not have fuel delivery, (the fuel pump is powered from a pulse fed relay. the pulse is source from the #1/#4 sparkplug coil.), *no spark, *and the bike will have power everywhere, but won't start.





-the little black junction/fuse box under the seat contains two relays on a printed circuit board. one is the headligt relay, and the other is a relay the operates the starter solenoid. this little relay will not always work, and when you push the start button, the bike won't always start because of it. i'm working on a cure!!

Check for cable binding.

Some older bikes (don't know what year yours is) have an engine vacuum line that allows fuel to run once the engine starts. (Starts with the fuel that was already sitting in the carb's) If you put a vacuum hand pump and start to pull vacuum, the fuel will flow...
Otherwise, something may be plugged.

To be fair it could be lots of things on a turbo bike, but as problem when hot sounds like a wear problem piston rings go quite a lot on turbos. also after 30,000 kms will need good service. finally check for air leaks around the carb and turbo . new plugs are strongly advised before you spend serious money. the turbo may also be worn but dont touch till last.

You need to replace your air and oil filters.. also get your clutch plates checked.. it would be picking up better than before..

This could be one of many things....to rich gas oil mix...also it could be you need to increse your air intake.and..your fuel jets may need cleaned! hope this is of help!

It is is firing out of the carb and the exhaust, the timing must be off, but also slipping. Is the flywheel tight? https://www.google.com/search?q=1984+kawasaki+klt+250+backfiring+problem ..

Not mentioned anywhere https://www.google.com/search?q=kawasaki+eliminator+%22EL+175%22+carburetor+size Lots of information for the bigger ones, 'Eliminator' is a whole range of models 125cc to 900cc https://www.google.com/search?q=kawasaki+eliminator+%22EL+175%22+carburetor+replacement ..

Absolutely, the rectifier on your Kawasaki Mean Streak 1500 can be repositioned during a customization project. The rectifier is a crucial part of the motorcycle's electrical system, converting alternating current (AC) from the stator into direct current (DC) to charge the battery and power the bike's electrical components. While relocating the rectifier, it's important to consider a few key factors:

1. Space and Mounting: Assess the available space on the motorcycle to find a suitable location for the rectifier. Ensure that the new position allows for proper mounting and secure attachment without interfering with other components or the bike's functionality.
2. Heat Dissipation: The rectifier generates heat during operation, so it's essential to relocate it to an area with adequate airflow for cooling. Mounting it in a well-ventilated area helps prevent overheating issues.
3. Wiring and Connections: When moving the rectifier, ensure that the wiring can be appropriately rerouted to reach its new location. Take care to maintain proper electrical connections and ensure a secure, stable wiring setup.
4. Protection: Consider adding protective measures, such as shields or guards, to safeguard the relocated rectifier from road debris, water, or other potential hazards.

Modifying the placement of the rectifier may require custom brackets, mounts, or fabrication work to secure it in the desired location. It's crucial to execute the relocation carefully, maintaining proper electrical connections and ensuring the rectifier's safety and functionality. If you're not confident in performing these modifications yourself, consulting a professional motorcycle mechanic or technician with experience in customizations can be highly beneficial. They can offer guidance, expertise, and ensure that the modifications are carried out safely and effectively.

eBay is the only place and there is only one. https://www.ebay.com/itm/266382749570 Or direct from China https://power-tool-batteries.en.made-in-china.com/product/tqRnSCOglNhK/China-Kawasaki-Power-Tool-Batteries-21-6V-Replacement.html Or you can open it up and solder in the individual NiCad cells. Better to replace with NiMH. This is probably why they don't exist, RECALL on the charger. https://www.cpsc.gov/Recalls/2007/alltrade-tools-recalls-power-tool-battery-chargers-due-to-burn-and-laceration-hazards ..