20 Most Recent 2008 Yamaha CygnusX Questions & Answers


Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
2. Failed alternator/generator and or voltage regulator.
3. Loose or corroded battery terminals and or cables especially the "NEGATIVE" cable, look for loose, corroded, or broken connectors inside the cable harness at "BOTH" ends.
4. Failed main circuit breaker or ignition switch, check for loose connections and continuity.
5. Failed system and or ignition relay, check for continuity.
6. Failed ignition coil, stator, magneto, ignition/electronic module.
7. Failed CKP, CPS, CMP, MAP, TPS, or BAS sensor, corroded, loose or broken wire connector pins/sockets.
8. Throttle cables and or idle speed improperly adjusted hot idle speed should be 950 RPM to 1000 RPM.
9. Faulty neutral, side stand or clutch lever safety switch.
10. Faulty or corroded kill switch.
11. Accelerator pump damaged or not working.
12. Water or dirt in the fuel system, carburetor or filter.
13. Restricted, blocked or kinked fuel line.
14. Fuel tank empty.
15. The gas cap is not venting properly or fuel tank venting system blocked, loosen gas cap and go for a test ride.
16. A failed fuel pump, pressure regulator and or fuel injectors.
17. Vacuum line from intake manifold to petcock broken, cracked, or not attached, carburetor vent line plugged.
18. Needle and seat stuck closed in the float bowl.
19. Petcock clogged or damaged.
20. Lean angle switch is faulty or needs adjustment.
21. Catastrophic engine failure, perform a compression test.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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2008 Yamaha... | Answered on Aug 20, 2018


Hi, Carmengeyer it won't go away by itself, for this scenario you will need your service manual, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Yamaha, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
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2008 Yamaha... | Answered on Nov 21, 2017


Hi, Anonymous the answer to this question is way above my pay grade and for this situation, I would call my local dealer or reputable shop's service/parts department and inquire about any possible quick fix, answers, or parts inquiry.
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2008 Yamaha... | Answered on May 02, 2017


Hi, Anonymous the best way to charge a battery is slowly. I like to use this analogy, would you rather be awakened from a deep sleep with gentle nudging or a violent kick in the rear.
1. Remove battery and check for corroded or damaged terminals clean any dirt, corrosion or electrolyte that is on top of the battery as this will cause premature battery drain, inspect for cracks and swollen/expanded sides which are a sign of overheating and replacement should be seriously considered.
2. Acid plate type batteries should be checked with a hydrometer with recorded readings for each cell to be compared with after charging readings and for sulfation, the cell will appear milky, and incorrect acid level. Fill low levels with distilled water to upper level and remove acid from over filled cells with hydrometer until the level is at the upper mark and dispose of acid in the sink mixed with a quart/liter of water.
3. Connect a voltmeter set on the DC scale to the battery and record the reading for comparison after charging.
4. Attach a drain hose that is not pinched, kinked, or plugged to the nipple on acid plate type batteries and let the other end hang into a plastic or styrofoam cup.
5. Connect a 1-2 amp trickle charger that has automatic charge rate reduction if possible and let charge for 24 hours.
6. After charging recheck each cell with a hydrometer a 100% fully charged cell will have a specific gravity reading of 1.270-1.280 and 1.180-1.190 has only a 25% charge battery should be load tested and considered for replacement if necessary. Reconnect your voltmeter and
any readings in the 10-volt range means you have a dead cell and the battery needs to be replaced. Readings between any 2 cells of 50 points or more indicate the battery has failed and needs to be replaced.
7. No maintenance AGM or GEL batteries need to have a voltmeter reading of 12.8-13 volts for a full 100% charge and 12.2 volts is only a 25% charge and should be load tested and replaced if necessary.
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2008 Yamaha... | Answered on Apr 24, 2017


Hi Anonymous, popping on deceleration is usually caused by an air leak in the exhaust system and is generally located where black carbon soot is seen as a flashing build up from any joint connection. This condition can easily be remedied by removing and cleaning both joint pieces and reassembling with high temp silicone and the correct torque applied to all exhaust clamps. Coughing is usually caused by an air leak in the intake system and will generally have the same telltale signs of location by a wet or damp buildup of oil/gas seepage at the intake manifold to cylinder head or carburetor connection and in rare instances a worn throttle plate shaft and or seals. Spitting is usually caused by a faulty accelerator pump and or nozzle, or the float bowl needle and seat leaking and overflowing through the main jet mixing well nozzle, or the air-fuel mixture screw is set to lean. For more information about your issue, please visit the websites below. Good luck and have a nice day. What Does the Check Engine Warning Light Mean YourMechanic Advice
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2008 Yamaha... | Answered on Feb 01, 2017


Hi, Robert for this scenario you will need your service/owners manual if you can't find the first and best tool you ever bought for your Yamaha, despair not, for a mere zero $ you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
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2008 Yamaha... | Answered on Jan 01, 2017


Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Fuel tank empty.
2. Fuel supply valve/petcock turned off.
3. Fouled spark plugs.
4. Engine flooded as a result of overuse of the enricher.
5. Vacuum hose to the fuel supply valve/petcock disconnected, broken, cracked, or pinched.
6. Fuel valve/petcock or filter clogged.
7. Fuel line to carburetor or throttle body pinched or kinked.
8. Carburetor float stuck.
9. Fuel injectors clogged.
10. Severely discharged or damaged battery, you need 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a load test if necessary.
11. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
12. Loose or corroded wire connection at the coil, battery or plug between ignition sensor and CDI box.
Spark plug cables in bad condition and shorting check for leakage in the dark, cable connections loose, or connected to the wrong cylinders.
13. Ignition timing incorrect due to a faulty MAP, CKP, O2, TPS, sensors.
14. Faulty neutral, clutch lever, or kickstand safety switch.
15. Faulty fuel pump or fuse or relay.
16. Faulty CDI box.
17. A stuck bent or burnt valve.
18. Tip over sensor needs a reset.
19. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
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2008 Yamaha... | Answered on Dec 16, 2016


Hi, Chris you may grounded the oil light circuit when your speedo snapped look in the oil tank with a flashlight while the engine is running there should be lots of tiny bubbles on top to indicate you have oil pressure and it is returning for more information about your question and free downloads that you will need please visit the websites below. Good luck and have a nice day.
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2008 Yamaha... | Answered on Feb 01, 2016


You propably have to replace fuel pump. Had the same problem. Original costs 250Eur, not original replacement ab 30Eur. Common problem in cygnus.

2008 Yamaha... | Answered on Aug 26, 2014


Hi,
i had the same problem. I had to buy new fuel pump. I think that it's a common problem of this Yamaha. In poland pump cost 310 $. Replacement cost 70$. You can find it on ebay.
martin

2008 Yamaha... | Answered on Aug 15, 2014


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Yamaha PowerMax... | Answered on Apr 16, 2016


Everywhere I read is wrong. For Yamaha Cygnus-X 125cc rear wheel removal
It is removed from the right hand side. Do not start dismantling the gear box side !
Remove 5 bolts of exhaust. Careful don't loose exhaust seal where it connects to engine. You may need friend to lean the bike over to access bolts underneath.
2. Remove main 24mm bolt on axle
No need to loosen brake !
3. Remove 3 bolts holding swing arm. That's the big triangular bit.
4. Pull off the swinging arm and on axle is special shaped washer. Note which way it comes off.
5. Pull off the wheel leaving brake shows behind.
4_8_2013_12_39_33_pm.jpg

Yamaha PowerMax... | Answered on Apr 08, 2013


They don't give crank kits away, plus the labor is extensive to rebuild.

Yamaha PowerMax... | Answered on Jul 02, 2011


How long since you started it last - try charging the battery

Yamaha PowerMax... | Answered on May 22, 2011


First off, I put a brick under the kickstand to get my bike near level...then i gathered the tools needed. 5mm Alan Head (Hex) Bit, 8mm wrench, phillips head screwdriver, and a vacuum pump (not necessary but very helpful if you're doing it solo.

Attachment 51703

Next step is to remove the left rear cylinder side cover. three 5mm bolts hold this in place.


Unscrew and remove the resevoir cap and diaphram carefully. Cover your paint with a towel (I was probably a little overdue for a fluid bleed...)
Suck out the old fluid from the resevoir using the pump (or a turkey baster) and refill with new DOT 4 brake Fluid (or DOT 3 or DOT 5.1)
Attach a plastic tube to the clutch bleeder valve, set up your vacuum pump, and loosen the valve using an 8mm wrench.
Now, get to pumping...watching the level in the resevoir as to not let it suck any air. When the fluid coming out of the valve is clear, the system is flushed.
(NOTE: if you are doing this by hand, (1) loosen the bleeder valve, (2) squeeze and hold the clutch lever, (3) tighten the valve, (4) release the lever...then repeat 1 through 4 about 50 more times being sure to watch the fluid level in the resevoir)
Once you are done, close the valve to 4.3 ft/lbs and refill the resevoir. Then replace the diaphram and resevoir cap.
Put the rubber cover on the bleeder valve and re-install the left rear cylinder cover. Check the fluid is at the appropriate level...

Yamaha... | Answered 7 hours ago


Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service manual, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Yamaha, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Yamaha... | Answered 16 hours ago


more like the carbs need to be removed cleaned and resynched

Yamaha... | Answered Yesterday

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