kawasaki KX 500 - Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals

as the numbers for the plugs that you have supplied are the same , I should imagine that you can use them in the bike as there is no difference in the plugs the critical items concerning plugs are the reach ---thread length the thread dia the seating ---taper or copper gasket

do u hav the clymer repair book-shows complete rebuild details--u probly missed a vital step--lower end work is deicate and takes proper tools and technique--

A bent shift fork is the usual problem when a tranny does not want to shift. Below is a diagram of how the shift forks move left and right to change gears. Please rate my answer. Thanks.

if its backfiring its usually a electrical problem due to unburnt fuel exploding after the fact , check the plug first ,

You have a positive wire grounded somewhere. Look for wires that rub against the frame, or look for two or more wires that are touching each other. More than likely somewhere the rubber/plastic sheathing has failed and wires are touching. It is also possible that the ignition switch itself has failed. You can find the problem by going over the harness carefully.

Sorry, chances are you will never be able to fully flush the particles out without splitting the cases. Might as well change bearings at the same time, etc., etc....

Kawasaki website has KX65-A2 (7F) Lime Green is that helps any

probly rite-the electrics are heating up from age--cud test each system--secure urself a clymer manual for proper procedure

the manual I have is from a couple of years earlier

it shows three wires in to the CDI from the stator

a red black that also goes to the stator but is joined to a black\white connected to the stop switch

and a single black that goes straight to the coil.

a 1992 may not have the original coil, or it may have had a black sheath over the orange when new

If that doesnt help, you may need to repost the question

You need the stock ignition switch in order for it to trigger a relay inside the igniter, then it will spark, this is part of Kawasaki's anti-tamper proof ignition system.

should be on the fork tube,where the forks attach to the bike there should be a sticker there to tell you the year

Is the bike locked up? Did the piston melt into the cylinder head?

If so you need to free up the piston to release the cylinder head.

You could try a little penetrating oil on the piston ring area and some heat. Then a wood stake and a mallet with a couple solid hits might unstick the rings.

Of course, after that...the head, rings and probably the piston are all gonna be scrap! Which they are anyway if the melted together right?

http://www.kawasaki.com/DefaultFrame.aspx?strContentURL=/Site/VIVehicleInformation/VIepc.asp?intCatalogID%3d2%26CatalogTypeID%3d4%26ProductTypeID%3d10%26ModelMarketingID%3d138%26ModelCode%3dKX500E15%26ModelYear%3d2003%26SHOWVEHTABS%3d1

This is a link to your bikes online parts list from Kawasaki. You can at least get part numbers for replacements if needed.

Good luck and be careful!

ebay? craigslist? local motorcycle store?

NO! you should have no movement!
needs bearings!

yes buddy thats the big end bearing im afraid if its moving up and down a slight bit its and engine rebuild it will move side to side buddy get back to me buddy

was there a spark buddy take the plug out and place against the side off engine and kick the bike over and i bet this thing goes loike a rocket get back to me with results

hows ur oil pressure-r u using the rite type-mc oil doesnt get sheered by the gears-also chec valve operation

To be honest if this was me I personally would replace bearings and seals and give whole engine good check over.May save some hassle later depending on your circumstances.

hello here is a link that gives all the specs for your o1 kx 500 its in pdf form. http://www.kawasaki.com/DefaultFrame.aspx?strContentURL=/Site/VIVehicleInformation/VIservicespecs.asp?intCatalogID%3d2%26CatalogTypeID%3d4%26ProductTypeID%3d10%26ModelMarketingID%3d138%26ModelCode%3dKX500E13%26ModelYear%3d2001%26SHOWVEHTABS%3d1

Not really a big job here.

• Take the sprocket off
• Take a medium size hammer and screwdriver and punch the outer rim of the old seal towards the shaft. The idea is to deform the seal so you can gently pry it out without damaging the case.
• After removing the seal just clean the case, lubricate the rubber seal and slide in onto the shaft and into the casing.
• The seal needs to install evenly. If you can, use a deep reach socket, (just a bit smaller in diameter than the seal), to go over the shaft and mate with the seal.. Tap the socket with a light plastic hammer to seat the seal.

Remount the sprocket and chain and go for a ride.

Please rate this solution. Thanks!