If the check engine light is on or was on, then what alternative methods
(hopefully including do - it - yourself) are there to obtain the engine trouble codes, and then are there any on-line methods to interpret the codes to actual engine faults.
I am interested in this for Pontiacs (2000-2002 Montanaa), chevrolets, and saturns
An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points
An expert that got 10 achievements.
An expert that got 5 achievements.
An expert whose answer got voted for 500 times.
Re: check engine light
The only way you can retrieve these codes is with a code reader. it's cheaper than a scan tool. problem with these is it only reads the codes and the booklet tells you what the code means but it can't clear the code and it can't change the parameters to keep the codes from coming back. do me a favor and rate this ...thanks
The check engine light comes on if the gas tank cap is not tight. I had mine checked out as soon as this happened. Since then it has happened twice - I just stop and tighted the gas cap and within a couple of starts - the check engine light goes off.
Try this. Disconnect your battery cable (Neg and Pos), Turn on ignition key, and press your brake pedal for about 10 seconds.Turn off ignition key. Reconnect battery terminals and start the engine. Check engine light should go off. If it does not, see your mechanic.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Sensor is typically located at a hot part of the engine - thermostat housing, heated intake manifold, cylinder head.
Checking a sensor isn't easy because the value changes with the temperature. The sensor is suspended into water of a range of known temperatures and ohm readings taken and compared with the specifications.
The alternative method is to read the live temperature data from the ECU and compare it with readings taken from an accurate contact or infrared thermometer. A rough indication can be made by comparing the cold engine temperature and ambient.
If the ECU is reading coolant Temperature it can be assumed the circuit (wiring) is functioning. Alternatively the circuit function can be checked with an oscilloscope or the wiring can be checked with an ohmmeter after referring to a wiring diagram.
Often the sensor is not expensive and it is more convenient to replace it and hope. Once a replacement is obtained it becomes easier to recognise when looking around the engine...
Did you have any additional electronics installed? check alternator capacity against 100% electrical load including installed electronics like upgraded car stereo, ACU. the alternator should supply all the electrical requirement that you need including the engine. If not, upgrade to a higher rated alternator.
I would get a second opinion on your alternator. Does your battery light come on while your driving? That can be an indicator of an alternator going bad. Also, there's an easy way to check the alternator yourself if you have access to a multi-meter. Turn the multi-meter on to DC volts and start the car. Put the positive lead on the positive battery terminal and the negative lead on the negative battery cable. While the car is idling, the meter should read 12.5 - 13.5 volts. Have someone rev the engine. With the increased RPM's the meter should read over 14 volts. If the voltage goes down when you rev the engine, your alternator is bad.
you need to check the charge rate,you will need a volt meter or a multi meter to do this the alternator should charge between 13.8 & 14.3 volts when the engine is running if you can't check it yourself you need to take it to where it can be checked,it could be the alternator or the voltage regulator is faulty.....hope this helps......cheers
CHECK ALTERNATOR OUTPUT IT SHOULD BE 13.5 VOLTS TO 14.5 VOLTS.WITH ENGINE RUNNING.IF VOLTS. 11.0 VOLTS UNDER.YOUR ALTERNATOR IS BAD.CHECK ALTERNATOR FUSE AND LOOK FOR DAMAGE WIRES.IF YOU REPLACE ALTERNATOR YOURSELF.BESURE TO TURN OFF RADIO SO YOU WONT LOSE PLAYING CODE BEFORE DISCONNECTING BATTERY CABLES.
When at idle the RPMs drop as the engine slows. This results in the alternator slowing. If it is failing or you have a problem with the charging system it can cause the car to die.
Usually however with a charge failure it will not start back again easily.
Try checking under full load. Run all electrical systems radio, heater, lights etc at idle. If you see the lights start to fade and the engine dies it is likely the charging system.
Most likely the alternator or part of the regulating system.
You can have the alternator tested or you can do it yourself.
Connect at voltage tester to the terminals on the alternator. Run the engine and measure the output. It should read as per the indications on the alternator. There is a sticker on the alternator telling you the output.
The first step is to have the fault codes read or to obtain a redeader and read them yourself.
Readers are relatively inexpensive and far cheaper than a visit to your local garage.
If the cars performance hasn't changed then the first step would be to clear the codes and see if the light comes back on.
You cars ECU can flag erroneous fault codes for no reason.
If the cars performance has changed then once the code is read it will give the mechanice or yourself a possible problem to look at. But a word of caution the fault code only tells you that the related sensor picked up a signal that was outside of a predetermined range. For example a fualty O2 sensor fault code rarely actually means a faulty sensor the more likely cause in this case would be an exhaust leak.
may i suggest you test the charge to battery using volt meter should be around 14 volts if alt is working ok also check the wires and connections to alternator are clean and secure? if alternator is faulty it is reasonably eay diy to change and you can obtain yourself from motor store if you have local tyre/battery depot near you pop along and have them check alt output/condition if you have no v/meter? they normally do not charge here in uk for quick check if they are not busy hope this helps