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Re: Thanks for the Vent fix, what can I do about the AC...
Best way is to charge the system and check compressor with gauges if you dont have your own or not experienced in doing this save you alot of headache to take to shop and have done if you do it yourself fill through the LOW PRESSURE SIDE ONLY hope this helps good luck
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The system to change from vent to defrost etc. it's all vacuum controlled. First thing I would do is look inside your engine compartment and look at all the black hoses close to the firewall. Check to see that they have no cracks, have come apart, this is also a good time to check your oil, and do a visual for anything that doesn't look tight or right. In Ford your temp is cable controlled but vents are all vacuum. Words case scenario you may have to take off that control panel to investigate further. One last thing if you can look under the dash tho make sure morning had been kicked loose. A good trick to use for an inspection like that is a mirror and flashlight. Let me know. Jim
older nissan? evap canister purge fault. check for loose or rotten/disconnected vacuum hoses before testing the vapor canister purge valve.
The charcoal canisters also clog up. Do some diagnosing before you go changing parts.
sounds like compressor isn't working properly or heater vacuum is opening vent to heater core.try turning on ac and if it cuts on and off repeatedly every few seconds the freon level is not correct or high pressure switch may not be working make sure radiator fan comes on when ac is on.if all this is working properly check vacuum hoses to heater may be opening vent doors to heater.hope this helps
Sounds like a vacuum activated switch. Your engine vacuum is used to open and close little doors in your vents. If a hose is loose or disconnected or the electronic controls that tell the switch to let vacuum thru is not working, no air will reach your defroster vent at the windshield. Does the switch that controls Vent, Heat (sends to the floor), AC and MAX AC do anything at all? If they do, you may have a specific switch problem. If you switch from Vent to MAX AC the sound of the air flow should be much louder. If the switch isnt changing where the air blows, it is leading you to the problem. Either the switch is bad or the supply of vacuum to the switch is not there whether it is a loose vacuum hose or a disconnected one. Happens often when aftermarket stereos are installed and the installer disconnects something either by accident or forgets to reconnect it.
The vacuum pump is the engine. It uses vacuum from the intake manifold on the engine to power the accessories. The vent knob basically is a switch for the vacuum, to give you different positions for your vent/ac/heating ducts, giving varying levels of vacuum to achieve them. problems with them working or not working usually stem from a leak in a hose, or a vacuum hose that has been disconnected. The most common vacuum leaks are where hoses are hooked up to something, right where the nipple ends inside the hose. They tend to crack there the most often.
The knob has vacuum hose that is attached to an acutator that moves the flap inside the venting controlling the direction of the air flow. The vent can get stuck, or the acutator can become leaky and faulty.
maybe a fuse problem but some of these problems are vacuum source problems also. if the vents are motorized, then it could be a fuse problem but if the vents are air solenoids, then it is a vacuum source problem.
you can verify this by looking underneath the globe compartment, if you can see the recycle vent controller, you can verify if the controller has electrical wires on it or just plain hoses.
if plain hoses you see, you could have a broken line from the engine vacuum to the controller.
check for broken small hoses from the controller switch going to the engine.