I mean i was going to replace it anyway but the guy told me i needed to
fix the exhaust cause he could hear me pull in i didn't have a muffler
to begin with lol....i had two cats and a pipe i fixed that by removing
a cat and adding a muffler sounds right....right?
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wow I wish ford could make a egr system that wouldn't fail as I've seen this one go a lot lately ! anyways the code is for insufficient flow in the egr system , this is a means to recirculate some of your exhaust back into your intake , as a means to reburn some of your excess fuel (emissions) , anyways it consists of a means to meter some of the exhaust , and control it (off/on) also to measure the amount that goes in , its part of the closed loop of the fuel inlet system , the fault code is specifically saying flow sensor cant detect any flow in the pipe , there can be a few causes for this including a bad flow sensor , all are from my opinion a poorly designed system (it doesn't self clean it's self ) as almost a guaranty every 60k miles your gonna have some problem with it
My first question would be, what was the original trouble code that directed the mechanic to replace the sensors ? You seldom need more than one O2 sensor at a time. Its possible the exhaust manifold is leaking and that might cause a problem that would turn on the warning light. Or it could be something else. A valve cover gasket will leak oil if it fails. No check engine light.
LOL , We had this issue arise before and it turned out to be that when the audio guys at American TV installed the car stereo speakers in our door , they tore the plastic sealing membrane on the inside of the door under the door panel. To locate the leak you will need a passenger with good hearing . drive into the wind until the noise starts and have the passenger guess which door the whistling is coming from... remove the door trim panel and be sure the membrane is intact and sealed... pay close attention to the mirror area... as they are prone to leak and cause a whistle...
are you sure it is not the iac valve you are hearing. this could cause a miss also and make a noise. If it is the coupling , it is a fast fix. If the coupling is bad enough it could cause some problems. You know the coupling itself can be found on E-bay for under 40.00. Then 12 oz. of special charger oil and a hour of time to replace. Have you checked the OIL? To replace the coupling , remove the belts , I think about 6 bolts , and pull the nose off to access the coupling. First try and remove the oil. A spray nozzle from any bottle will fit in the fill hole to squirt out the oil to a bottle. After the oil is out , the bolts(allen head I think) are removed ,pry off the cover . the coupling will be right there Put it back in reverse with new oil and torqe the bolts back , belts and you are ready to go. Since the coupling needs replacing anyway do it and then check the running of your car. I am told the dealer does not sell just the coupling so you have to get after market.
To diagnos the catalytic converter, remove exhaust Y pipe from exhaust manifolds and start up. If engine runs goood and revs up, then suspect a restriction in your exhaust. Exhaust shop should be able to fix the problem. Cannot repair the cat converter. It is a honeycomb of metals inside that superheat the exhaust and burn off any unburnt fuel. When the honeycomb melts from contamination then it blocks exhaust air flow.
A common cause is the rocker/valve cover gasket leaking. This can be due to age, over tightened clamping screws, or loose clamping screws; or the PCV system isn't working properly and the pressure under the cover too high as a result.