My truck has been noisy for a while. Estimates are upwards of $700 canadian. I put the truck on ramps and climbedunderneath it today. The gasket came off in two pieces. There does not seen to be any damage to the manifold and there is a gap between the muffler pipe and the manifold. Of the 3 bolts that are on the manifold flange, 2 of the 3 bolts are still there but I dont have the proper socket to get them off (think its 7/16) the 3rd bolt does not have a bolt.
What are my options?
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Re: manifold gasket on passanger side
Torch them till they glow and use a pair of vice grip pliers to remove them and buy a new set of bolts from your local parts store, be sure and have a tap ready to clean out the threads after you remove the bolts -jeff
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it is 100% intake gasket,if you check the coolant reservoir,and there is oil in it,if it was head gasket you had white smoke out of tail pipe and loss of power you can run run the cylinder compression test,
gm used crappy plastic intake manifold gasket, unfortunately, it is about 1000$ or so fix
Ha, you tried to fool me with the bit about a 3.5 L motor--I could find that one...here is the complete procedure from AutoZone.com:
Clean the gasket mounting surfaces. Be sure to inspect the manifold for warpage and/or cracks. If necessary, replace it.
Position the gaskets on the cylinder head with the port blocking plates to the rear and the This Side Up stamps facing upward. Then apply a 3 / 16 in. (5mm) bead of RTV sealant on the front and rear of the engine block at the block-to-manifold mating surface. Extend the bead 1 / 2 in. (13mm) up each cylinder head to seal and retain the gaskets.
Install the lower intake manifold. Tighten the bolts in sequence and in 3 steps, as follows:
Step 1: 26 inch lbs. (3 Nm).
Step 2: 106 inch lbs. (12 Nm).
Step 3: 133 inch. lbs. (15 Nm).
Install or connect the following:
Power steering pumpAlternator bracket bolt near the thermostat housingWiring harness to the lower manifold components, including the injector, EGR valve and ECT sensorAir conditioning compressor bracket-to-the lower intake manifold pencil braces
Install transmission oil dipstick tube, if necessary.
Fuel supply and return lines to the rear of the lower intake
Temporarily reattach the negative battery cable, then pressurize the fuel system (by cycling the ignition without starting the engine) and check for leaks.
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Install or connect the following:
Heater hose to the lower intakeUpper radiator hose to the thermostat housingDistributor assembly and engage the wiringIgnition coilConnect vacuum hoses to the upper and lower intake manifold.New upper intake manifold gasket, making sure the green sealing lines are facing upwardUpper intake manifoldManifold retainers. Tighten them to 88 inch lbs. (10 Nm) using two passes.Purge solenoid and bracketBrake booster vacuum hose at the upper intake manifoldPCV hose to the rear of the upper intake manifoldVacuum hoses to both the front and rear of the manifold assemblyThrottle bodyThrottle linkage to the upper intakeWiring to the upper intake components including the TP sensor, IAC motor, MAP sensor and the fuel meterEngine coverAir intake assembly
You can remove the engine struts(dog bones) mounted over the top of the radiator. Use a ratchet strap, attach one end to the engine hook on the driver's side dog bone mount and the other to the radiator support. Pull the engine forward, you can then access the rear spark plugs. You have to make sure your spark plug wires and ignition coils are not corroded also.
Changing the oil pan gasket on a GMC Yukon XL is realtively simple, but does require removal of the exhaust pipe. You will need a new oil pan gasket and a new exhaust pipe flange gasket. Put the car on ramps or jacks to access the undercarriage. Remove the exhaust pipe by removing the 3 nuts holding the exhaust pipe flange to the exhaust manifold. These nuts often rust and prior application of penetrating oil may be required to remove them without damage. Once the pipe is unbolted, work the exhaust system loose from the hanging brackets. In most cases the entire system does not have to be removed since there is enough room to remove the pan with only the front hangers removed. Drain the oil from the engine Remove the 10 mm bolts holding the pan to the block. Remove the old gasket material and scrape any remaining gasket from the block and pan. Install the new gasket. Forma-Gasket or a similar product may be used in small quantities to "glue" the new gasket in place and prevent shifting while the pan is reattached to the block. Reinsall the 10 mm bolts in a cross pattern to ensure the gasket is compressed evenly. Do not overtighten the bolts. Replace the pipe to flange gasket between the exhaust pipe and the exhaust manifold with a new part. Reattach the exhuast pipe to the hangers. Install the 3 bolts connecting the pipe flange to the exhaust manifold. Fill the engine with oil.
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Unlikely you have holes eroding in the manifold, check your gaskets & donuts first. If you replace the manifold gasket use new bolts when you put it back together with anti-seize compound and use a flat edge to check flatness of both faces.
I once had a corroded oxygen sensor that sounded like a bad donut gasket. It got really noisy all of a sudden and I noticed one part of the oxygen sensor hanging by its wire and the other stuck in the manifold with a hole blowing exhaust where the sensor used to be. Pretty obvious what needed fixin' after that.
well if the coolant is leaking in by the spark plug thats bad news. You can try and go to a parts house and put in a bottle of coolant stop leak but the down side of this is some times it will plug up other things also like the heater core and radiator. The only other thing i can say is get a few estimates
Will not be the thermostat. Most likely you are low on antifreeze (coolant). This may be caused by a leak in the head gasket or manifold. If so major problem. Check your oil to see if there is water getting into the engine. It will appear as white milky substance. If so fix immediately or lose the engine. The other problem may be the water pump has failed. If you look at the engine you may see a lot of water (coolant) on the left side of the engine which is where the water pump is located. ( left side if you are looking into the engine compartment) If it is the waterpump you are looking at app. $200-$250 parts and labour taxes in Canadian. I had the same problem mine was the waterpump. *************************************WARNING***************************************** Do not let the engine go into the red. If you do you are in danger of warping the head and then bigger problems