I recently changed out my plugs, rotor and distributor cap and plug wires. When I try and start the engine turns over, but it will not run. after several tries it will start but stutters, until finally while reving the engine it will stay running fr a while. It seems as though it is not getting a proper flow of fuel. I hear the fuel pump running, but I also hear a
static sound from under the hood. When I don't hear this static sound it will crank. I have double checked the firing and gap in the plugs and all good. I think it has something to do with the electronic fuel injection.
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of.(from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones)
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Possibly a plug wire or cracked distributor cap. I'd take a spray bottle and while it's running (be careful not to get your body parts in danger of the fan) spray some water on the cap area. If everything seems fine, you could spray down each plug wire at a time. See if you find the culprit that way. For a vehicle so old, if you haven't done a tune up lately. It's probably a good time. Replace the distributor cap and rotor. Plugs and wires.
Hi there: Check this removal procedure (See Figures 1 through 5)
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Unfasten the retaining clips (only remove the coil wire if necessary) and lift the distributor cap straight off. It will be easier to install the distributor if the spark plug wiring is left connected to the cap. If the plug wires must be removed from the cap, mark their positions to aid in installation.
Remove the dust cover and mark the position of the rotor relative to the distributor body; then mark the position of the distributor body relative to the engine block.
Detach the harness assembly connector.
Remove the pinch-bolt and lift the distributor straight out, away from the engine. The rotor and body are marked so that they can be returned to the position from which they were removed. Do not turn or disturb the engine (unless absolutely necessary) after the distributor assembly has been removed.
Exploded view of the distributor assembly-6-cylinder engine
Align the mark on the housing with the mark on the shaft-VG30i and VG30E engines
After the distributor assembly has been installed, the rotor should be in this position-VG30i and VG30E engines
After the distributor assembly has been installed, the rotor should be in this position-KA24E engine
INSTALLATIONTiming Not Disturbed
Insert the distributor in the block and align ALL matchmarks made during removal.
Engage the distributor driven gear with the distributor drive.
Install the distributor clamp and secure it with the pinch-bolt.
Install the distributor cap and fasten the harness electrical connector.
If necessary, install the spark plug wires and coil wire.
Start the engine. Check the timing and adjust it if necessary.
It is necessary to place the No. 1 cylinder in the firing position to correctly install the distributor. To locate this position, the ignition timing marks on the crankshaft front pulley can be used.
Remove the No. 1 cylinder spark plug. Turn the crankshaft until the piston in the No. 1 cylinder is moving up on the compression stroke. This can be determined by placing your thumb over the spark plug hole and feeling the air being forced out of the cylinder. Stop turning the crankshaft when the timing marks indicate TDC or 0 .
Oil the distributor housing lightly where the distributor bears on the cylinder block.
Install the distributor so that the rotor, which is mounted on the shaft, points toward the No. 1 spark plug terminal tower position when the cap is installed. Of course, you won't be able to see the direction in which the rotor is pointing if the cap is installed, so lay the cap on the top of the distributor and make a mark on the side of the distributor housing just below the No. 1 spark plug terminal. Make sure that the rotor points toward that mark when you install the distributor.
On the VG30i and VG30E engines, align the mark on the distributor shaft with the protruding mark on the housing.
When the distributor shaft has reached the bottom of the hole, gently move the rotor back and forth slightly until the driving lug on the end of the shaft enter the slots cut in the end of the oil pump shaft and the distributor assembly slides down into place.
On the VG30i and VG30E engines, the distributor rotor tip should be in the 11 o'clock position.
Fasten the distributor hold-down bolt.
Install the spark plug into the No. 1 spark plug hole.
Install the distributor cap and engage the harness electrical connector.
If necessary, attach the spark plug wires and coil wire.
Start the engine. Check the timing and adjust it if necessary.
Hope this helps; also keep in mind that your feedback is important and I`ll appreciate your time and consideration if you leave some testimonial comment about this answer.
I would manually set it up to top dead center. (Rotate the engine by using a breaker bar and socket on the crankshaft pully bolt the same direction as it runs) with the front cylinder, #1, assuming you have a 4.0 liter straight six, spark plug out. Put your finger in the spark plug hole, and as the engine is turned by hand, you will feel "air pressure." This is coming up onto the compression stroke. With the piston at top, you are at top dead center. (Zero aligned for timing marks) Now remove the distributor cap, your rotor should be pointing at the stud for the number one plug wire.
Turning it will then move the rotor to the next plug to be fired.
Hi wyocwboy here, Have you changed Spark Plug Wires ,or distributor Cap & Rotor? If you have this really sounds more like a Few spark Plug Wires have Been put on wrong. If you have'nt changed opr moved any of the wires or changed cap & rotor,Its Possible that your Timing Chain has jumped a Notch.Clean off your Damper -Which is the Bottom Pully your Hamonic Balacer, then rotate your enging until you Find your Timing Marks, Clean good and take a Marker or best a Chalk or Soap stick and mark it a 8 Degrees BTDC (Before Top Dead Center) Hook up a Timimg like Assuming it does run.And see if your able to see the Timing light Flashing on the mark if not Rote your Distributor either way Slowly and See if you can get the Light on the MARK you Made on The Harmonic Balancer. If Not Either Your Timing Chain Jumped a Notch or your Distributor may be off a nocth. To Check to see if your Timing Chain Jumped a Notch =Remove the COIL WIRE from Distributor Cap So it Won't Start then Remove #-1 Spark Plug Have a Friend Turn the Key off and On just Bumping the Engine a Little at a Time,Keeping a Compression Gauge in the #-1 Plug Hole When the Gauge Needle goes up you are close to TDC (TOP DEAD CENTER) STOP THERE .Check to see if the Mark on your Bottom Pully you made is at or Close to Ling up on top dead center. Trace #-1 Spark Plug Wire up to the Distributor Cap Remember the wires In the Dist. Caps Position or mark it to. Pull the Cap off The Distributor Rotor Should Be Pointing to Close to Where Your Number 1-Spark Plug Wire was Located.
Run These Series Of Tests and it Should Tell you or Give you a Very Good Idea of Your Problem. Please Let Me Know if This Helped You. FROM THE WYOCWBOY
Disconnect the wires and take pictures with cell phone for reference to ensure you don't cross them when reinstalling the new distributor cap. Remove the two torque screws in the distributor cap and remove the distributor cap to access the rotor. Remove the rotor by lifting straight up and inspect the distributor for any condensation and corrosion. Clean the breather screen at the bottom of the distributor before installing the new rotor which just slides back in place. Install the new distributor cap and tighten the new torque screws, make sure you do not over torque the screws since the distributor housing is plastic and prone to stripping. Reattach the spark plug wires and start the engine and idle for 5 min and go for a test drive. Good luck and you may want to also buy spark plug boot lubricant to ensure the spark plug wires are fully installed when placed back on the new distributor cap and recheck connections after test drive. Keep me posted, be glad to know your blazer is running 100% and please rate.
if this is a four cylinder engine,the plug gap is what NAPA told you,verify you have the right plugs and gap,next remove the cap again and verify the plug wires are pulled into cap where they will lock in.
I had the same problem with my 85 cj7 this week, I relpaced the ignition control module, plugs, wires, cap, rotor and the the coil; still had no fire to plugs. the problem turned out to be my distributor, replaced it today and she fired right up. Most likely it was the pick up module in the distributor that went bad.