I am not getting anything out of the bleeders still but I took the brake lines off the rear fluid was coming out of that on both sides. I know that the back breaks haven't been looked at in a while. what should I do from here.
thank you so much
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Re: 91 Chevy S-10 2wd
If you are not getting anything out of the bleeders you have a bad booster you should have fliud flow when you push the pedal down. i would also check that the master cylinder is bench bleeding because if it doesn't then that is bad as well. you should always feel resistance when the system is closed.
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Try removing the bleeder screw all the way. If fluid now comes out, use paperclip to clear bleeder screw. If still nothing, loosen brake hose at end nearest to MC to see if you get fluid there. If yes, replace brake hose. Still nothing? crimped line between MC and hose, or bad MC or misadjusted linkage from pedal. Pedal must release all the way and have some free play 91/8th inch or so).
Must bleed air from brake lines. Done so with help of a friend to pump brake pedal a few times and hold while you loosen and immediately retighten the bleeder screw located right where the line enters drum on the back. Use care, as fluid will start to drain out as air is eliminated in line. Do this repeated times. When only fluid escapes you are finished!
I would try replaceing the master clylender and rebleed the brakes start at the right rear have some one help you press the brake paddle down and hold it open bleeder its where the brake line connects to the brakes looks like a greese fitting open the bleeder then close it let brake paddle back up repeat until you have fluid comeing out of bleeder go to the left rear do the same then right front to left front
start from the fartherest place from brake master cylinder, that will be the rear passenger side wheel. it takes two people to bleed brakes. you will find the bleeder valve screws at the top of inside of the rear drums on both rear wheels, have someone pump the brakes up, will take at least 4 pumps of brake pedal, at 4th pump keep pressure on pedal while you break loose the bleeder valve on the rear wheel, fluid will come out and brake pedal will go down to floor, keep pressure on brake pedal until you've tightened the bleeder screw back [note] you'll only have to back the bleeder valve out about a half turn until you see the fluid come out. after you've done the rear brakes add brake fluid to the master cylinder as it will be low. then go to the front passeger side and you will find the bleeder screw on the brake caliper. repeat the same proceedure as back. remember that pressure on the pedal is a must until you've tightened those bleeder valve screws back or else it will **** air into the brake system. suggest that you bleed all 4 wheels not just the back. after you've bled the front make sure you add more brake fluid back to the master cylinder, it will be low again. hope this helps and thank you for choosing fixya.com
start at the passenger rear tire, have someone PUMP up brakes and hold pressure on them, release pressure by locating small bleeder screw, loosen screw 1/4 turn, brake fluid/air should come out, after brake petal reaches floor tighten bleeder, repeat process until only brake fluid comes out. go to driver side rear repeat, go to pass. side front repeat, go to driver side front repeat, after each bleeding make sure you check brake fluid in reservoir.
The purpose of bleeding brakes is to remove air pockets from the brake lines. You do not need to do anything with the master cylinder. You need an assistant to help you bleed the brakes. Have the assistant pump the brakes a couple times and then hold the pedal down. You open the bleeder and the air and fluid will come out, then close the bleeder. You r assistant can then release the pedal and start again by pumping the pedal and then hold it. You open the bleeder again. You repeat this process until only fluid comes out of the bleeder. Do it for each tire.
was the line going to the rear? if so on the front of thepropotional valve is a pin onder the rubber cover it should be in, if not you will have to remove the, one wire, sensor and look inside. there should be a little knoch in the center if not it will be to the front, use a small pick to slide it to the center replace the sensor and try to re-bleed.
Open the bleeder screws on your brake, and stick a gas line hose on the bleeder screw. Put the other end in a clear bottle of brake fluid, and pump the brake till all the air bubbles quit coming out. Then tighten the bleeder. If no bubbles come, you may have a faulty master cylinder.